REAL WORLD COMPARISON: OEM Anti-Sway Bar w/ Disconnects vs. Antirock Off-Road Sway Bar vs. SwayLOC Dual Rate Anti Swaybar System

Does anyone else have an issue where the lock walks itself back after 3-4k miles until it's unlocked? It's happened to my wife's TJ twice now.

IMG_20210503_201126.jpg
 
Friction due to a slightly rough surface from a few years of sand and grit. It can be pushed back by loosening the bolts 1/4 turn or a few light taps.
I have the air activated version and don't daily drive mine but I would think a regular cycling regimen might help, maybe once a week.
 
Does anyone else have an issue where the lock walks itself back after 3-4k miles until it's unlocked? It's happened to my wife's TJ twice now.

View attachment 249859
Mine has never done that, but I can see how it could since the slot is not square. I do have a good bit of wear on the finger, which I’ve often wondered if that could cause it to disengage. Maybe @mrblaine will chime in if he has seen this before.

I do think it has to be kept very clean to work properly. I pressure wash my rig and that does a good job getting between the arm and the actuator.
 
Mine has never done that, but I can see how it could since the slot is not square. I do have a good bit of wear on the finger, which I’ve often wondered if that could cause it to disengage. Maybe @mrblaine will chime in if he has seen this before.

I do think it has to be kept very clean to work properly. I pressure wash my rig and that does a good job getting between the arm and the actuator.
If the slot was square it would only stay tight until some wear developed. Then the slop would get progressively worse until the annoying clicking would require it to be replaced. If the slot is tapered slightly and the tongue has a matching taper with a shorter than full depth engagement, then it automatically compensates for any wear and the spring will maintain a zero clearance fit.

The only way the lock can come undone while driving is if there is insufficient lubrication for the slide in the arm slot to not allow the spring to keep the tapered pin engaged in the tapered slot. It is getting jacked out and the spring isn't pulling it back.
 
This thread convinced me to go straight from my stock anti-sway bar to the manual SwayLoc. An Antirock had been in my shopping cart for months and I almost pulled the trigger several times. Hopefully I’ll be glad I waited...
Coming directly from the stock front, your thoughts will be good to have.
 
Coming directly from the stock front, your thoughts will be good to have.
Being on a stock lift, with just a Savvy body lift and a soft top and with Fox 2.0 shocks I don’t really have any issues cornering now, but after this install my Jeep should ride like it’s on rails on the street and give me the Antirock flex I want on the off camber/rutted trails...
 
Do the larger arms on the swayloc cause any tire rub issues?

Larger than stock? Larger than the Antirock? Or do you mean thicker? The lengths of the SwayLOC and Antirock arms are about the same.

But to answer your question - No tire rub issues with either the Antirock or the SwayLOC.
 
Last edited: