Replacing Rear Stock Control Arms: Tips for a Newbie?

[CMD Z]

Check lower shock bolts, one of mine was a bit loose and caused a clunk.

Thanks, I'll check the shock bolts. The shocks have all been replaced (Rancho 5000) in my quest to get rid of the clunk, so it was already there, but it doesn't hurt to take another look.

 

[CMD Z]

I should take the "clunk" issue to another thread, but for more background, I've replaced:

- Sway bar end links (all 4 corners)
- Shocks (all 4 corners)
- Tie rod
- Drag link
- Stabilizer

I did the front end work before the sound was isolated to the rear passenger side. From inside the cab, it sounds like it's coming from the front passenger side. All of the components were worn, so the repairs made sense at the time. All of them have been properly greased, where applicable.

Thought it might be the brake pads shifting after a forward<->reverse direction change, but couldn't replicate the sound with the Jeep up on jack stands, and wheels off. I'd put it in drive, spin the rear axle and slam on the brakes. Shift into reverse and do the same thing. Nada.

The frame is pristine, so no rusty bolt holes or cracked welds. The previous owners apparently didn't take it off roading and kept it in the garage. There was only 62K miles when I got it last fall. All of the wear appears to be due to being 15 year old parts in a hot, dry climate. It drives really well on the street and off road... comfortable (I've had comments from passengers), solid and capable... though the steering is a little creaky.

The only thing I haven't really looked at is the coil spring mount. I have no idea if that's even a likely suspect, but it's the only rear suspension component that I haven't thoroughly investigated.

 

[CMD Z]

Posted a new thread for the clunking, with video: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rear-axle-clunk-brake-caliper-or-axle.36999/

You can see my shiny new control arms, too!

 

[PJTJ]

Looking for tips to replace these components myself on a stock 2005 LJ (53,000 miles). Did some research and it seems pretty straightforward (4 arms, 2 bolts each, mind the e-brake cables). Also looks like you can just do this on the ground. But it appears there's one tricky bit: the axle is likely to shift enough to make it difficult to get the second bolt in for each control arm. The two suggestions to address this were:

- Use a ratchet strap to pull it back into place
- Use a "porta-power" ... no idea what this ... to pull/push it back into place

Questions:
- Couldn't you just put a couple of straps on the axle to begin with to keep it from shifting in the first place?
- Any other tips to make sure this goes smoothly? (is thread lock or anti-seize recommended, easier done on jacks with the wheels off, etc.)

Background:
Bad clunk when going from forward<->reverse. The right rear upper control arm bushing is shot, all the rest are cracking, but otherwise fine. Local shop quoted $450 to replace the upper and lower passenger side rear control arms. I'd prefer to do both sides ($900). Found a new set of 4 for less than $100. Though new to vehicle DIY, I've already replaced the shocks, drag link, tie rod and all sway bar end links. Some swearing was involved. I found enough YouTube videos to understand these other repairs pretty well before tackling them. When it comes to stock rear control arms, the resources are sparse and are mostly composed of "how to install adjustable control arms" and only focus on setting the length.

I just ran into this problem when installing the new rear upper passenger side arm. The bracket was tilted about a 1/4 inch too far rearward to get the bolt in.

After trying a bunch of the stuff listed on forums and it not working, I had easy, quick success with putting a chock block behind my driver side rear tire, reversing into it (not over it) and having a helper place a 2nd chock block in front of that same tire to keep the Jeep from rolling forward when I let off the clutch and brake.

This twisted the axle the perfect amount to slide the bolt right across.

 

[AndyG]

Just throwing this in after the fact - I love wheel dollies for this work-

 

[Viking Jeeper]

Just throwing this in after the fact - I love wheel dollies for this work-

View attachment 374521

so are you telling me you can just adjust that wheel to get the control arms mounting holes to line up?

 

[AndyG]

so are you telling me you can just adjust that wheel to get the control arms mounting holes to line up?

I found it easier to set my pinion angle and line up the holes with both rear wheels on the dollies- all I had to do was lift on the pinion to go up, and lift on a shock mount to roll it down

for safety I loosened both arms but made changes one arm at a time

@Jamison C gave me the idea and man was I glad.

 

[Gizmo]

I have never needed any more force than while laying under the jeep put a foot on the tire and try to roll it to get a bolt hole lined you . I also try to chock each tire front and back first to hold everything in place and do one arm at a time. If it moves then naturally remove the chock from the wheel you are trying to move naturally .