No need to change slave, just pull stock rod from boot and install the Novak adjustable one. I have stock slave and Novak push rod that came with the bearing.
No need to change slave, just pull stock rod from boot and install the Novak adjustable one. I have stock slave and Novak push rod that came with the bearing.
Thank you! I forgot I had that adjustable rod until you mentioned it. That makes life easier.
Talked again soon!
Talked again soon!
There was one issue that I had not noticed with installing the LS until I was working on the exhaust and I had the front end compressed to the bump stops. The crank pulley balancer is 1/8" away from hitting the truss at full compression. This had me a bit worried, as 1/8" is not much before having the axle bump into the crank pulley.
The only solution foe me was to go with an underdrive pulley. They are plentiful for LS motors, but I have the truck/van which has a longer pulley, and different accessory setup than other LS motors. Finding and underdrive was a bit more difficult, and I only found one that is available. This one I found at JEGS 51614 25% underdrive pulley. Here it is next to the stock pulley.
Installation went well and now I almost gained 1" of clearance from the front axle. I did have to change the serpentine belt to Dayco 5060895. I do understand this slows down the water pump and power steering pump, and will report back on if I can tell any differences.
The only solution foe me was to go with an underdrive pulley. They are plentiful for LS motors, but I have the truck/van which has a longer pulley, and different accessory setup than other LS motors. Finding and underdrive was a bit more difficult, and I only found one that is available. This one I found at JEGS 51614 25% underdrive pulley. Here it is next to the stock pulley.
Installation went well and now I almost gained 1" of clearance from the front axle. I did have to change the serpentine belt to Dayco 5060895. I do understand this slows down the water pump and power steering pump, and will report back on if I can tell any differences.
The gas tank tuck is awesome. Would like to eventually do that since I’ve done the body lift as well
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It is pretty easy to do. I stuck with the stock skid instead of the Savvy kit as years ago I saw 'The Wizard' comment that the stock was already a strong unit and only should upgrade if you are in extremely rocky or rough terrain.
Need a friend like you near by to help me get my engine swap past the “looks okay” to the “ dang that’s nice” stage.
going on 6 months now and I still haven’t touched the gauges.
I would love to help out, as I get a lot of enjoyment tinkering.
I understand the feeling also. I thought the supercharger would be great, but overall very disappointed overall. A lot of money and effort I thought was wasted. So I thought, f$#k it, I am gonna go LS. Found a 4.8 with a custom standalone harness for manual, PERFECT for my project. Got it home and got looking at it closely, everything in water jackets was rusted, bad. It looks like they ran straight water, and they never changed the oil. Cam bearings were past the babbit. It needed heads, machine work, etc. I was really bumed, and it took me two years to get my head together and go forward, and damn the financial.
Now come find out, my 3" Currie springs setup is not that great, and should have gone with the 4" setup in the first place. Gonna need $500 in springs, and do I go with the $220 Rancho 5000x or go allout on a set of Fox 2.0 custom tuned from Fullstack? Ordered my tires this morning, and the BFG A/T KO2 went up $50 bucks a tire x 5= +$250. Back in September they were $252, now $304 for 315/70/17.
Great information in this thread. Thank you for starting it. Your build is pretty close to what i have planned out for mine. Any reason you went with artec truss over the other brands for the 8.8
Thank you. I did truss 5 years ago, and I think at the time Artec was only company that had simple, full truss kit that anyone can weld and install. All pieces click together, tack everything to make sure it’s straight, and go.
There is some say the 44 is better than the 8.8, main reasons being the 44 you can go to 35 spline, 8.8 you are limited to 31 spline. Also 8.8 is heavier, and the pumpkin is larger, so loose about 1 to 1.5” of ground clearance.
Next week I am going to install Yukon Super 8.8 kit, this eliminates the c-clips which are an issue, and the axles are chro-molly.
While I don't agree with the non-8.8 folks I do see some of their points. But back when I first bought my TJ (2002) the 8.8 was a popular swap especially in the YJ & XJ crowd because of their leaf springs. It wasn't as popular with TJ's becasue of the coil bracketry but I still find it a ok swap. And I priced it our a while ago comparing doing a Super 35 vs 8.8 vs Dana 44 and it was interesting how this all worked out.
There was once a long debate on JU (JeepsUnlimited) as to which was stronger between the 8.8 vs Dana 44. I don't remember how it worked out.
The super 88 kit also adds width to the rear wheel base. I already have the 8.8 rear end stipped and ready im looking at the barnes 4wd truss. also keyed for ease of assembly. For the money i dont think its worth going to a dana 44. With the 88 kit that rear end can handle 37's
Artec or Barnes are good, both are keyed. The width increase is minimal, does not affect anything significant. I have no complaints of my 8.8, works good.
Do you remember at all how the pricing worked out? As I remember I priced a 44, to truss it, locker and gears was about 5-600 more than 8.8. I got the 8.8 for 100 bucks, everything else was new, as I only wanted housing.
Well part of it was how much you ended up paying for the Dana 44.
But even comparing prices to a Dana 35 that you already had it worked out to the 8.8 costing about the same as doing the Super 35.
The other thing was that you can only get a few selectable lockers with the S35 kit so if you wanted some other type of traction aid devise you are SOL.
Stock if I remember the comparison the 8.8 is as strong or stronger than a stock Dana 44. But as you pointed out it hangs down a little more and the center section is offset. It all comes down to what you can do yourself. If you are paying someone to do all the welding then it swings the other way.
But as you know trying to find a Dana 44 is like pulling hens teeth.
Agree.
Story time. Wife had a ‘04 Ruby six years ago. She rear ended somebody, damage to passenger corner. Bent axle, course it was a 44. Repaired- nope. Totaled due to did’nt want to find front axle. So she ended up with her JK.
Finding a rear 44 is hard, and$$$$; try finding a front 44.
Totally agree. It's like trying to find a Dana 60 around here that is less than $1K.
It is also why I built the HP44 I have in my TJ.
I have a 8.8 & a Barnes 4WD truss that I have for sale. I'd bought it for my daughters TJ but ended up selling it instead.
There are other vehicles you can get a rear Dana 44 from but like the 8.8 you have to weld brackets onto it.
And while the Dana 35 is a ok axle you start adding power to your drivetrain (engine swap) IMO the Dana 35 needs to go. I do know people who have done a V-8 swap and still have their Dana 35.
It is also why I built the HP44 I have in my TJ.
I have a 8.8 & a Barnes 4WD truss that I have for sale. I'd bought it for my daughters TJ but ended up selling it instead.
There are other vehicles you can get a rear Dana 44 from but like the 8.8 you have to weld brackets onto it.
And while the Dana 35 is a ok axle you start adding power to your drivetrain (engine swap) IMO the Dana 35 needs to go. I do know people who have done a V-8 swap and still have their Dana 35.
Must be area dependent, saw TJ Dana 44 rear for $500 on FB recently. Almost grabbed it just in case but that is bit more garage space than most spare parts. See them for closer to $800 most of the time.
Wow, hell buy it, sell it later. That's investment money. Car-Part is at $11-1500 for standard 44, up to $2300 for Ruby 44.