My luck with printing stuff hasn't been great. I can't print it myself so I send it to the local library for pennies per minute. But I can't ask for specific type and everything I have had them do has eventually warped. I'll pay the $49
STICKY Share Your 3D Design Files (or Sell a DIY Part)
- Thread starter SSTJ
- Start date
My luck with printing stuff hasn't been great. I can't print it myself so I send it to the local library for pennies per minute. But I can't ask for specific type and everything I have had them do has eventually warped. I'll pay the $49
The library is going to do it as cheap as possible so they're using PLA filament. PLA sucks outdoors. It's brittle and prone to warping in the heat.
DeltaNu1142
TJ Enthusiast
I've had a winch solenoid mount I designed and printed in PETG under the hood of my F150 for probably 5 years/40,000 miles. Printed with regular infill (30%?). No issues.
You can also get PETG with self extinguishing additives to help with fire prevention. It's a little harder to print but removes a fire fuel source.
Step away from the duct tape......
Great color choice on the Duct tape!!!
LOL
DeltaNu1142
TJ Enthusiast
I had some design ideas I was mulling over:
- a gas catch can for the fuel that spits out of the fuel filler, hangs from filler bolts; drain with hose nipple to fill your Rotopax. Requires filament that doesn’t react with petroleum.
- a modular duck holder for the dash (print one per duck) - fastens to the dash with drywall screws
- an angry grille printed in 32 easy-to-assemble pieces; bear teeth optional
- break-away hi-lift jack mount for hood; breaks free in case of an accident so it only injures occupants of other vehicles
- dash-mounted manual mod cost counter - increment with the price of each part you order (design files for both four and five digits)
- curb feelers, multiple files for different lift heights. Fit 2007 and up Wranglers only.
Not really. None of those are really feasible, and nobody needs to print the duck holder. That is just ridiculous. I simply modeled the mount into the base of the duck so it is easy to attach to the dash right off the printer........ It is all just one piece now. (pushes up glasses with index finger)
DuckNut
TJ Enthusiast
This simple thing is so important. If people would use this it will save so many ac condensers and heater cores. The dust and debris that gets on them and traps moisture will severely shorten their life. This is a great invention.
Just bought a 98 Sport and it blew the cigarette lighter fuse. At that point I learned that Chrysler didn't bother to put a spot near the fuse box to hold spares nor a puller. So I designed this up over the weekend for the Eaton/Bussman fuses and puller sold at AutoZone. Still need to tweak the size of the holes for the mini fuse blades but they hold pretty good.
Either going to toss it in the glove box, or if there's room, just double side tape it to the firewall next to the fuse box. Not sure just yet.
Either going to toss it in the glove box, or if there's room, just double side tape it to the firewall next to the fuse box. Not sure just yet.
Update on my spare fuse holder. Today I had a chance to go and try to fit it in the Jeep, and by some stroke of luck, it pretty much fits like a glove behind the glove box right next to the fuse box!
The surface I stuck it on is a bit curved, so time will tell if it holds, but initial results are promising.
The surface I stuck it on is a bit curved, so time will tell if it holds, but initial results are promising.
Now you got my gears turning…. You able to share the STL? I might be able to use my phone to scan that area and tweak it to conform to the section better.
What I would kill for a OEM like fuse holder that isn’t just an altoids tin in the glovebox.
Ha, I drew this up b/c I didn't have a tin big enough to hold the max fuses for under the hood too.
I'll do you one better, here's the FreeCAD design along with the STL (in a zip to make the forum soffware happy). All the dimensions are pretty much in the spreadsheet in the design. You may have to tweak the dimensions for the slots for the fuse blades/bodies b/c my printer is cheap and the tolerances aren't all that awesome.
I printed it with 20% infill using the cubic pattern, except the pins that hold the puller. For those I configured my slicer to make them all "walls", and also a bit down into the base for extra support.
Here's the puller - https://www.autozone.com/electrical...ler/32407_0_0?searchText=fuse+puller+bussmann
The fuses are also bussmann fuses from AutoZone..
Also, if you could explain to me how you scan stuff with your phone like that and get it to conform that would be amazing, because I am a noob at this and only really know how to draw up basic shapes.
Lastly, if you start selling this, I want a cut lol.
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What a champ, gave me everything.
But how I can use my phone for scanning, I have an Iphone 12 Pro Max that has a Lidar sensor (I think most of the Pro Max models have it) abd use PolyCam to take advantage of it to 3D scan items.
You can then export the scan as an STL, for this application you can use it to cut the curve into another model in something like Fusion or FreeCAD.
I do it very rarely so Ill have to remember how to do it.
I probably wont sell them to be honest, don’t have the time or need. But Ill toss the new model back out here once I get it all set up and tested.
Ahh, figures it's an Apple thing. I'm an Android developer, and it figures Google isn't interested in adding lidar to their Pixels.
Boolean operations! I literally just taught myself how to do that in FreeCAD yesterday.
Hah, all good man, just teasin'
An alternative is the this small box with lid that fits in the PDC.
https://www.printables.com/model/530385-jeep-tj-spare-fuse-bin-for-under-hood-fuse-box