So far not impressed with Johnny Joints

The lowers always take more force by a large amount than the uppers. They have a much larger ball and race so the surface area at the interface is higher. Nothing for you on why they aren't smooth. Clean the grease off when you get them apart and post up some pics so we can see if anything odd is going on because none of this makes any sense.
Understood. But when I said lower, I meant the joint that was bolted to the axle bracket on the lower control arm. So, on the same lower control arm, the upper frame side joint was much easier and smother to move than the lower axle side joint, which by all appearances on inspection without taking it apart was bone dry and felt partially seized.

Hopefully, that clarifies things. I am ordering the Johnny joint tool today so I can take them apart. I'll take as many photos as possible during the disassembly, cleaning and greasing, and reassembly.

Just a side thought, with the tolerances so tight on JJs, does one or should one be concerned when cleaning the underside of their rig (types of cleaners that may penetrate the joint, avoiding direct power spray on joints, etc)? What is the proper process for cleaning the underside after wheeling? I just use soap and water with a power washer.
 
When I lived in Illinois, I had to grease my Johnny joints about every 6 months. When I moved to Southern California I only greased my Johnny Joints on my short arms once in over a year and a half. I have since sold those short arms when I went with mid arms.

The reason I had to grease the joints frequently was due to groaning noises over bumps. I never had squeaks just groaning noises.
 
Understood. But when I said lower, I meant the joint that was bolted to the axle bracket on the lower control arm. So, on the same lower control arm, the upper frame side joint was much easier and smother to move than the lower axle side joint, which by all appearances on inspection without taking it apart was bone dry and felt partially seized.

Hopefully, that clarifies things. I am ordering the Johnny joint tool today so I can take them apart. I'll take as many photos as possible during the disassembly, cleaning and greasing, and reassembly.

Just a side thought, with the tolerances so tight on JJs, does one or should one be concerned when cleaning the underside of their rig (types of cleaners that may penetrate the joint, avoiding direct power spray on joints, etc)? What is the proper process for cleaning the underside after wheeling? I just use soap and water with a power washer.
The cascade effect isn't what is going on. You didn't clean the grease out of the joint so there is no need to worry about what to do in the future. This is highly anomalous. We know this for a few reasons. The Jeep based forums are full of the "anything but" crowd who delight in slamming anything mainstream and proven. If this was the norm, every single time anyone mentioned Currie, the number of posters telling everyone how much they squeak and require high maintenance would be endless. That's just how it works.

I only know of one other case like this and the owner lived in OK and spent a lot of time on dry red clay dusty roads. Near as we can figure without being there, the dry clay dust seemed to soak the oil out of the grease he was using and dried out the joints.

Personally, I don't like the grease fitting in the body. There is no good path to get the grease where it belongs and I don't like any grease between the outer part of the race and the barrel it contacts. With the grease fitting in the body, there is no way to prevent that since both areas, the barrel and the ball have the same resistance and tolerances since they are all squeezed together when assembled.
 
When I lived in Illinois, I had to grease my Johnny joints about every 6 months. When I moved to Southern California I only greased my Johnny Joints on my short arms once in over a year and a half. I have since sold those short arms when I went with mid arms.

The reason I had to grease the joints frequently was due to groaning noises over bumps. I never had squeaks just groaning noises.
I guess you could call mine more of a groan over a squeak because it's not higher pitched.
 
Interesting. curious to see how this pans out. I've never heard anything bad about the JJ.
And to see if it degrades into a poo-flinging blood feud over brands.
 
@mrblaine think this might have something to do with the JJ issues?

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I’m going to go out on a limb and say that damage isn’t new, and isn’t because of JJs.
Not saying its new and caused by the JJs, rather it's a possible cause of the JJ issues, perhaps from a slight misalignment of the joint in the bracket.
 
Not saying its new and caused by the JJs, rather it's a possible cause of the JJ issues, perhaps from a slight misalignment of the joint in the bracket.

Sarcasm is lost in text, I’m aware that’s your problem. Is the Wallowing new since the change or were these present before your upgrade?
 
Sarcasm is lost in text, I’m aware that’s your problem. Is the Wallowing new since the change or were these present before your upgrade?
Alas, it is lost. Not new. Was like that when I pulled old arms, cam bolts and washers off.
 
Alas, it is lost. Not new. Was like that when I pulled old arms, cam bolts and washers off.

I had some steering slop after installing a new trackbar - rereading the installation instructions suggested I should check the torque specs again. I’m not sure how often after the “break in period”, but I wonder if this is a similar case (probably exacerbated by the elongated bolt holes).
 
I had some steering slop after installing a new trackbar - rereading the installation instructions suggested I should check the torque specs again. I’m not sure how often after the “break in period”, but I wonder if this is a similar case (probably exacerbated by the elongated bolt holes).
I'm not sure it's wallowing out. The new JJ bolts are too large to move back and forth in the slot. They only fit in the front or rear of the slot. You can see where the new washer for the larger JJ bolt was against it in the rear of the slot. A flat bolt went through the middle when I removed the previous arms. It almost looks like the slot was drilled with larger holes rather than a smaller slot wallowed out. I checked torque regularly on them.
 
Previous control arm bolt with flattened side that fit in that narrow middle part of the slot. It os triangularly shaped like a thread-cutting bolt.

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what Are you using for a grease gun, if it’s a pistol grip style you probably can’t make enough pressure to force grease in, the long lever high pressure style is the one to get.