Because the lever (arm) on one side is longer working against the fulcrum (chassis), affects the suspension (load) at a different rate. In other words the long arm twists the bar easier, no?

That does happen. Are you still trying to suggest that if we mismatch holes side to side that one side will be stiffer than the other? It won't because the rotation of the torsion bar is not pinned to the chassis. The forces will balance out through the torsion bar.
 
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That does happen. Are you still trying to suggest that if we mismatch holes side to side that one side will be stiffer than the other? It won't because the rotation of the torsion bar is not pinned to the chassis. The forces will balance out through the torsion bar.
Actually I think This would be a great topic for discussion, I honestly don’t think there is a benefit mismatching holes on a TJ my point to Jeremy was more regarding weight transfer to the rear from a stiff setting to a soft setting.
 
Actually I think This would be a great topic for discussion, I honestly don’t think there is a benefit mismatching holes on a TJ my point to Jeremy was more regarding weight transfer to the rear from a stiff setting to a soft setting.

I’m trying to wrap my head around that weight transfer dynamic.
 
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I’m trying to wrap my head around that weight transfer dynamic.

Actually I think This would be a great topic for discussion, I honestly don’t think there is a benefit mismatching holes on a TJ my point to Jeremy was more regarding weight transfer to the rear from a stiff setting to a soft setting.

Against my better judgement, because I know how these discussions go on the internet, I made a thread to discuss...Hopefully (hope, isn't a plan) it doesn't turn into a shit show

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...nd-how-it-affects-suspension-stiffness.65311/
 
As one twists up the other twists down, so the lever arm forces balance. They have to, it’s a Newtonian law (the third).

So if I take a bar clamp or a strap around the axle and compress the spring to the frame until full bump the other side will do the opposite? I get action and reaction but that’s not my understanding of antiroll.
 
So if I take a bar clamp or a strap around the axle and compress the spring to the frame until full bump the other side will do the opposite? I get action and reaction but that’s not my understanding of antiroll.

Raising the one side this way will be pulling up on the other via the torsion bar (obviously at different rates between the two bars). But that's not a real force we see wheeling, we are pushing the wheels to the ground for traction via springs + gravity. As long as one is pulling down, the other is also pulling down.

I believe they are referencing how the levers act together, however.
 
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Raising the one side this way will be pulling up on the other via the torsion bar (obviously at different rates between the two bars). But that's not a real force we see wheeling, we are pushing the wheels to the ground for traction via springs + gravity. As long as one is pulling down, the other is also pulling down.

I believe they are referencing how the levers act together, however.

Pulling a tire up on a rock is similar and it transfers weight to the opposite rear corner right? this would probably be an easy experiment to do with a floor jack at a specific height with the bars equal then at max offset measuring suspension travel at all corners Both ways.
 
This is a pretty good description of weight transfer that Blackjack posted on the other thread.


Thanks. So front driver tied to rear passenger and vice versa. Trying to find the balance between front and rear. Good description. Helpful.
 
Thanks. So front driver tied to rear passenger and vice versa. Trying to find the balance between front and rear. Good description. Helpful.

The thing you need to remember is the ultimate goal, trying to maintain as much tractive force as we can. After the race for RTI ramp supremacy in the late 90s and early 2000s it was finally realized that maximum articulation did not equal maximum traction. If there is no suspension down pressure on a tire it might as well be in the air since it will provide little to no traction. So for guys like John Currie it became about finding balance and stability.
 
The thing you need to remember is the ultimate goal, trying to maintain as much tractive force as we can. After the race for RTI ramp supremacy in the late 90s and early 2000s it was finally realized that maximum articulation did not equal maximum traction. If there is no suspension down pressure on a tire it might as well be in the air since it will provide little to no traction. So for guys like John Currie it became about finding balance and stability.

Yet still, many argue about MC and their ramps and whatever score/rating/ranking bullshit they have. All about that eggplant pic.
 
Yet still, many argue about MC and their ramps and whatever score/rating/ranking bullshit they have. All about that eggplant pic.

MCs CTI trailer would be a very useful tool if people would get past the sword measuring that goes on everywhere it goes. Lot easier than the forklift or ditch that I use. But there will always be those that think the earth is flat and snake oil salesmen to cater to them.
 
I moved the SL links to the 3rd hole back. It’s hard to tell a difference onroad, especially as I adapt to the new driving experience. Off-road it seems fine too, but I didn’t test it over anything very difficult. I plan to do more tomorrow.
 
I've had a knock in the front end for over a month. It's getting annoying. I went through the steering test and all I could feel was a slight click in the axle u-joint. After rebuilding the front CA's and re-torquing all the bolts in the suspension, and of course, just looking for anything that could be knocking, I concluded it must be the u-joints in the axle. I ordered two new Spicer 5-760X. It just boggles my mind that this is the problem. The joints are only 2.5 years old and no more than 20,000 miles on them. Does that seem odd?
 
I've had a knock in the front end for over a month. It's getting annoying. I went through the steering test and all I could feel was a slight click in the axle u-joint. After rebuilding the front CA's and re-torquing all the bolts in the suspension, and of course, just looking for anything that could be knocking, I concluded it must be the u-joints in the axle. I ordered two new Spicer 5-760X. It just boggles my mind that this is the problem. The joints are only 2.5 years old and no more than 20,000 miles on them. Does that seem odd?

What kind of knock? What condition creates it?
 
What kind of knock? What condition creates it?

Literally sounds like a person knocks on a wooden door once. It happens onroad when I turn left or right about 60% of the time. It happens offroad when my front tire or tires hit a crevice or rock.
 
Literally sounds like a person knocks on a wooden door once. It happens onroad when I turn left or right about 60% of the time. It happens offroad when my front tire or tires hit a crevice or rock.

Is it wearing a white shirt and black tie asking if you’ve heard the good news?
 
Last time I had a knock it was the track bar

It could be. I can't reproduce it at the TB with a steering test if it is (with key in on position to cause stress to steering). I loosened it and re-torqued it, but get this, it's, I can't even say it's so embarrassing that it's still on my rig, so I'm going to put it in a smaller font.

MC
 
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