It also doesn't hurt that he was able to get a Load Range C in that tire size which would not have been my first guess.
My LJ Thread - A MrBlaine Spec'ed LJ Build for Daily Driving and Weekend Adventure
- Thread starter ObiWanWebWheelr
- Start date
derekmac
TJ Addict
Thank you. I've really enjoyed doing this one. The owner has a dream and a very specific build plan that I'm fortunate enough to have the skills to assist him in the accomplishment thereof. I owe him a small debt of gratitude for verbalizing my typical build philosophy with his TPE explanation. I've done things that way for years without really having a name for it, I've just considered it a balanced build philosophy that once defined should be adhered to. The TPE is why my first question I ask anyone that wants some help solving their problems with a rig is "what are you going to do with it?"
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One of if not the baddest LJ builds I've ever seen. I have such a long way to go..lol\
*edit* bad meaning good
*edit* bad meaning good
Don't know, but based on the other installs I've done and the fact that this one is much stronger, I don't see an issue.
The TPE idea is a good one, and one I agree with entirely. Always have...I'm cheap when it comes right down to it. I don't mind paying for quality, as long as it satisfies my internal value equation...like you tho, I've never put it in those terms.
It took me a while to decide on my own path for my junk too...lots of time reading forums and more technical stuff. I feel pretty good about it now. We'll see how it actually works.
Seems a shame to take a perfectly good Magnaflow exhaust system and hack it up but there is no other solution. We bought some mandrel bends to avoid taking it to our local exhaust shop so he could use his exhaust kinker on it.
Tailpipe exit- We shortened it 10" to move the tip so it is just past the back of the gas tank skid.
Finally got the steering wheel back.
We had it cleaned up by my local car wash guy. Unfortunately the helper climbed in the back and drug the eyelets of his boots across the sill and scratched the still tender paint even though I administered copious amounts of warnings about the delicate nature thereof. I revived a product I came up with many years ago and had several built. Stainless Steel sill cover.
Cool rigs need cool under hood lights, so I spent an hour and came up with this one using a pair of camera tilt mounts, some aluminum scrap, and a couple of KC light pods.
The switch you can see in the above pic is a waterproof K4 push on push off switch picking up power from the original underhood light harness.
We mounted the Split Second box inside against the passenger kick panel. Unfortunately that meant we had to drill a 2" hole in the firewall to get the connector to pass thru. Unbeknownst to me, 2" firewall grommets are next to impossible to find, so we had to improvise with a common size grommet and a filler ring out of .034 Stainless Steel sheet.
Tailpipe exit- We shortened it 10" to move the tip so it is just past the back of the gas tank skid.
Finally got the steering wheel back.
We had it cleaned up by my local car wash guy. Unfortunately the helper climbed in the back and drug the eyelets of his boots across the sill and scratched the still tender paint even though I administered copious amounts of warnings about the delicate nature thereof. I revived a product I came up with many years ago and had several built. Stainless Steel sill cover.
Cool rigs need cool under hood lights, so I spent an hour and came up with this one using a pair of camera tilt mounts, some aluminum scrap, and a couple of KC light pods.
The switch you can see in the above pic is a waterproof K4 push on push off switch picking up power from the original underhood light harness.
We mounted the Split Second box inside against the passenger kick panel. Unfortunately that meant we had to drill a 2" hole in the firewall to get the connector to pass thru. Unbeknownst to me, 2" firewall grommets are next to impossible to find, so we had to improvise with a common size grommet and a filler ring out of .034 Stainless Steel sheet.
No one that I would recommend. I acquired the kit from Redline, after doing so I then learned that their installation consists of you getting the kit and then you ship off the steering wheel with the kit to a 3rd party to have the work done. I asked the local upholstery shop if they could install it and they said they had done many. They charged an inordinate amount considering the barely acceptable level of work the second time. They screwed it up so bad the first time I made them redo it. It was unfinished, the ends of the leather didn't tuck under the trims on the wheel and the stitching looked like a blind monkey had been practicing some sort of weird abstract art with an orange crayon. I'm not thrilled with the way it is now but it is either accept it or pay someone to fix it. I'll leave that up to the owner. If it was mine, it would be fixed.
It was at one point a Tough Stuff Product item that I developed many years ago. He quit making them because there was too much competition. With that much competition it should be easy to find one, right? No one makes them any more so I had to have some made.
Yeah, I was about to say, I haven't been able to find one at all! If you make them, I'd buy one! I think it's a simple idea, but a good one.
I have 20 of them in stock. I haven't figured out shipping costs yet, but we should be able to deliver one to you for 40 bucks. They cost me 25 each, a few bucks for profit, box, and then shipping on top of all that should work.
Why stainless steel and not aluminum? It seems like a high traffic area to install something that could rust if not painted/scrathed up. The aluminum seems like it would be easier to protect against the elements. Same applies to door sill guards, no?
Because in this application without any welding or other issues that affect the corrosion resistant properties of S/S, it is the superior material, plus aluminum soft enough to bend would also scratch very easily.
Great build, coming from a LJ Rubi owner myself. Glad Mr Blaine shared this thread after discussing for the second or third time what I want to do with my Jeep. Every time I talk to Mr Blaine I learn so much about what works on these Jeeps. So appreciative to have somebody with so much knowledge to share. I can't wait to get my spring perches straightened out and rear shocks outboard.
My Jeep carries a salvage title so I don't feel quite a bad when I bump into rocks with these sacred long bodied Jeeps. Some how I managed to find a 2006 with a six speed manual in a dark blue color closely matching my Chevy Avalanche tow vehicle. I have had several sets of wheels, three sets of TJ Moabs (both polished and painted), JK Moabs, and now the Raceline beadlocks. While I like my Racelines, I actually feel the original TJ Moabs are the most fitting wheels for a Jeep that's not crunching them against the rocks (as I did with my first ones on the Rubicon). I recently picked up a near perfect set of TJ Moabs and put some 33" A/Ts on them, they will go on my Jeep for long road trips if I ever go on one. Right now I just admire them in the corner of the garage next to the Jeep...
Thanks again for sharing this build!
Mike
My Jeep carries a salvage title so I don't feel quite a bad when I bump into rocks with these sacred long bodied Jeeps. Some how I managed to find a 2006 with a six speed manual in a dark blue color closely matching my Chevy Avalanche tow vehicle. I have had several sets of wheels, three sets of TJ Moabs (both polished and painted), JK Moabs, and now the Raceline beadlocks. While I like my Racelines, I actually feel the original TJ Moabs are the most fitting wheels for a Jeep that's not crunching them against the rocks (as I did with my first ones on the Rubicon). I recently picked up a near perfect set of TJ Moabs and put some 33" A/Ts on them, they will go on my Jeep for long road trips if I ever go on one. Right now I just admire them in the corner of the garage next to the Jeep...
Thanks again for sharing this build!
Mike
Last piece of the puzzle. The grill we had painted was missing the plastic paint guard that the hood latch rubs against every time you close the hood. I checked all my other grills and they were missing on them as well. I ordered up some stainless steel sheet, cut it to size, bent it to shape, re-grained it, and pop riveted it in place with some S/S rivets.
The owner drove it off today. He was pleased with the build and I look forward to hearing how he likes it after he spends some time on the road with it. He mentioned that he was going to meander his way home with a few stops for camping and adventure along the way. For myself, this is a tie for my all time favorite build. The other belonging to Mr. Garza.
The owner drove it off today. He was pleased with the build and I look forward to hearing how he likes it after he spends some time on the road with it. He mentioned that he was going to meander his way home with a few stops for camping and adventure along the way. For myself, this is a tie for my all time favorite build. The other belonging to Mr. Garza.