Beginner suspension lift

[Charlie G]

I'm toying with the idea to not go to the cheap route (Spring spacers and a body lift). And actually do a suspension lift.
With this being said, I have never done suspension work in my life, so assume I know nothing. (Cause I don't)

I had learned that the Rancho shocks rode pretty good, and that "springs are springs". So I wasn't bothered by using RC ones.

I was thinking about these parts...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QWX6KQM/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QWX6IWI/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.roughcountry.com/produc...dCPqDnblpvkK0Oi5ie8v0dI1g-wM9F3MaArRzEALw_wcB (They have a no shock option)

I was warned about RC products concerning suspension, but I figure if I'm using Rancho shocks and RC springs things should be okay.

Now my final question is. Is this feasible? Is this smart? And what else do I need to add to this to get an actual lift. I know you need like relocation things and other stuff right? So if I go with these parts, what else do I have to add for it to work? I'm trying to stay somewhere around $500 for this. And with the parts I've already linked its somewhere around $430. However if you have suggestions for cheaper springs or better shocks feel free to share, I'm not opposed to getting different parts, I just like the price of these and they seem to have high praise from others.

This is not the first time I've asked about suspension, so thank you for your input

2005 sport with 4.0 manual 6 speed

 

[Rickyd]

My 2.5" lift rc springs were badly sagged when i got my jeep. One of them was actually lower than stock.

I would pony up a hundred or 2 more and get better quality springs.

 

[Rickyd]

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-recipe-for-an-affordable-but-quality-2-5-lift.41687/

 

[red02tj]

I’d start here unless *think* you’ll want more lift or tires bigger than 33s. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-recipe-for-an-affordable-but-quality-2-5-lift.41687/

 

[TheBoogieman]

What size tires are you planning on running?

 

[zachpeakee]

I'd push HEAVILY into a set of quality springs, instead of Rough Country springs.
They have high praise, because majority of the people buying/installing/driving them simply don't know any better.

In a nutshell, they're a low-end, low quality, budget spring.

Higher quality springs tend to maintain their performance & structure a lot longer than low-quality springs.
Lower quality springs tend to "sag" or degrade a lot quicker.
(which in turn leaves you shopping for springs again in a year)

Similar to what @Rickyd said about his Rough Country springs, my 4" SkyJacker springs were sagging almost 1" low on the right rear corner after only 40k miles on the TJ.

In the end, I'd spend the extra $200 and get a set of good springs.
You'll be more pleased with a set of quality springs, versus any "budget friendly" options.


As for the Rancho's, they're a solid choice of shock.
The RS5000x is what I currently run on mine.
They're a bit softer than I'd like for on-road performance though. My TJ doesn't really feel "planted" at speeds over 50mph. A bit soft/wobbly.
Definitely gets a little hairy sometimes rolling 60mph through the mountains.
BUT, the tradeoff is nice, because at lower-speeds the plushness of them makes for a fairly comfortable ride.
For the price of the RS5000x, I'd recommend them and I think you'd be pleased.

 

[JMT]

Usually one gets what he pays for.

 

[Charlie G]

What size tires are you planning on running?

I have brand new 31's on there right now, so I'm not looking on replacing them anytime soon.

 

[Charlie G]

I've read the "recipe for 2 inch lift". I guess the other mandatory thing on that list is the rear trackbar relocation bracket? I just assumed the body lift is for the "extra inch" and not something you have to have. Also the spring spacer was something solely to get rid of rake. So is the trackbar bracket the only thing I NEED for this or can I get buy with just new springs and shocks. Also if I go with the ranchos, I've heard people debate between 0-2" and a 2-3". So what is the best thing there, along with a recommendation for good springs.

 

[Charlie G]

I've read the "recipe for 2 inch lift". I guess the other mandatory thing on that list is the rear trackbar relocation bracket? I just assumed the body lift is for the "extra inch" and not something you have to have. Also the spring spacer was something solely to get rid of rake. So is the trackbar bracket the only thing I NEED for this or can I get buy with just new springs and shocks. Also if I go with the ranchos, I've heard people debate between 0-2" and a 2-3". So what is the best thing there, along with a recommendation for good springs.

Or could I keep stock springs and just add spring spacers and new shocks? Mines from 2005 so I don't know if I should replace them regardless.

 

[JMT]

Or could I keep stock springs and just add spring spacers and new shocks? Mines from 2005 so I don't know if I should replace them regardless.

Usually your springs will have sagged by now. You can always measure and find out. The front are 12" from factory. The rear are 8". If you're at 11 1/4" in front and 7 1/2" or something in the rear then you know it's sagged. Adding a spacer will bring you back up, but make sure and compensate for the initial loss to actually get the amount of lift you want. A spacer is definitely possible and there is nothing wrong with it.

Springs are possible route too. Once you know your final lift height you'll know what springs will be best for your purposes, but I can already tell you that if you stay in the 2" ballpark definitely go with the 0-2". Ranchos run long.

 

[Charlie G]

Usually your springs will have sagged by now. You can always measure and find out. The front are 12" from factory. The rear are 8". If you're at 11 1/4" in front and 7 1/2" or something in the rear then you know it's sagged. Adding a spacer will bring you back up, but make sure and compensate for the initial loss to actually get the amount of lift you want. A spacer is definitely possible and there is nothing wrong with it.

Springs are possible route too. Once you know your final lift height you'll know what springs will be best for your purposes, but I can already tell you that if you stay in the 2" ballpark definitely go with the 0-2". Ranchos run long.

https://www.amazon.com/Rancho-RS5000X-Gas-Shocks-set/dp/B01963XI50/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Is this what you would get?

 

[JMT]

https://www.amazon.com/Rancho-RS5000X-Gas-Shocks-set/dp/B01963XI50/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Is this what you would get?

If I stayed with total suspension lift from 0-2", yes.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/tj-shock-spring-specification-resource-thread.47846/

 

[zachpeakee]

Or could I keep stock springs and just add spring spacers and new shocks?

Spring spacers aren't BAD by any means. They provide some lift, with minimal effort.
They're just a more budget option than anything else.

I've always regarded spring spacers as the "poor mans lift"

I however wouldn't use a spacer to compensate for already-worn spring sag.
That's a band-aid, not a solution.

At which point you're back in the same bucket, of just doing it correct and buying springs.

I've heard people debate between 0-2" and a 2-3". So what is the best thing there, along with a recommendation for good springs.

Rancho RS5000x shocks, go ahead and pull the trigger.

For springs, at the very minimum I'd go with something like the JKS 2" if you're concerned about budget.
They're dual rate, 2" lift, and only $335.

https://www.extremeterrain.com/jks-jeep-wrangler-2-inch-dual-rate-lift-coil-springs-jspec3200.html

Honest opinion, if you're looking to go more budget than that you'll be sacrificing a lot of quality.
At which point you might as well just scroll Ebay for the cheapest made-in-china kit you can find.

 

[Charlie G]

I've seen people do a 2 inch lift with only shocks and springs. Is that feasible? Just pop new springs and shocks in there with nothing else? Also what would you do to get rid of the rake?

 

[zachpeakee]

I've seen people do a 2 inch lift with only shocks and springs. Is that feasible? Just pop new springs and shocks in there with nothing else? Also what would you do to get rid of the rake?

You shouldn't have any sort of excessive "rake" on a fresh spring/shock install.
Usually you'll only start to notice rake if the front or rear springs are worn.

A lot of cheap spring kits utilize a spacer to "eliminate rake", which is primarily marketing bullshit.
I think most of those budget kits are selling stock length springs, with a 2" spacer, NOT 2" lift springs.

They're utilizing the spacer length AS part of the lift height.
Proper length/rate springs shouldn't have rake to begin with.

Most i've seen only run spacers if they're loaded heavy on one end or the other.
(ie, big bumper, winch, etc / run small spacer up front to compensate for the weight)
(tons of gear, weight, etc in the back / run a small spacer to compensate)

As for the lift itself, I haven't bothered with a 2" lift personally, but I believe you can get away with just shocks/springs, with no issues.

 

[Rickyd]

I've seen people do a 2 inch lift with only shocks and springs. Is that feasible? Just pop new springs and shocks in there with nothing else? Also what would you do to get rid of the rake?

Don't forget to extend your bumpstops so the new shocks don't bottom out. Over 2" lift I'd use 239 and 241 shocks instead of 128 and 240.

 

[Charlie G]

How do I extend bumpstops?

 

[jjvw]

Don't forget to extend your bumpstops so the new shocks don't bottom out. Over 2" lift I'd use 239 and 241 shocks instead of 128 and 240.

The shocks are fine being the limit to up travel. The reason to extend the bump stops is so that the jounces can assist in slowing down the last bit of shock travel speed before full compression.

 

[jjvw]

How do I extend bumpstops?

Back when my stuff was closer to stock, I would use 3" diameter plastic body lift pucks for the front bolted to the axle pad. For the rear, I used 2" pucks to extend the steel cup down.

The body lift pucks were cut to length so that the shock reached full compression at the same time the steel cup would touch the axle pad.