How much do rear suspension components affect ride quality?

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Bhodi

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So, I've been restoring a 2002 Jeep TJ SE. So far I've replaced every front suspension component aside from the axle itself (I was experiencing death wobble, and then minor speed wobble, for about a year and only after the final component swap am I finally able to drive it above 60 mph.

The TJ has a ~ 2 inch suspension lift (Spring length at ride height is 14 inches front and roughly 11 inches rear). I dropped it from a 4 inch suspension lift with 33 inch tires to 2 inch with 31s (quite frankly, the engine just couldn't handle the size and the lift was installed by the previous owner without factoring in anything like castor, etc).

I noticed after replacing the rear shocks yesterday that the rear track bar, control arms, and sway bar look about as warn as you'd expect for components that probably haven't been replaced for the life of the jeep. So, I'm wondering, how worth it is it to replace those components?

If it will make a big difference in performance/ride quality I'm inclined to do it. I've used currie track bar, currectlync, and savvy control arms up front. Love currie/savvy and would want to do the same in the rear but don't know how to weld so would love recommendations for rear track bars from another brand.

Thanks so much for your help. I've been lurking here since I bought the jeep and these forums have helped me tremendously in restoring it. Side note, this is my daily driver but used for light off-roading on occasion.
 
My control arms are all shot... every time I hit the brakes, gas or clutch the Jeep clunks...does yours? I've got replacements on order...

I like my Black Max shocks. Affordable. Oro Swayloc sway bar in the front made a huge difference in handling.

If I had the money I'd do a wheelbase stretch, outboard the shock mounts and do Fox 2.0s.

-Mac
 
You can’t put a number on the answer to your question but anything from a little bit to considerably is the real answer- Everything is interconnected -any extra movement in the back can affect driving and ride-

There are over 40 bushings underneath these

I don’t think everybody needs to go out and buy all the parts to basically drive a new Jeep under one- But if you’ll take the time to learn how the system works and get pretty good at diagnosing play you can spend your money effectively and get results.

At this stage of the game nearly everyone of these on the road needs attention is a pretty true general statement-

The most persistent owners get the best results
 
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What brand shocks are you running? Replacing worn out parts is always a good idea. Stock control arms work fine with your lift.

I'm replacing the skyjacker shocks that the previous owner installed with Fox 2.0s. I did the rears the other day cause those came in first but going to have to swap them out for longer ones (I did the 0-2 inch lift size but forgot to consider the extra ~ inch of lift in the rear so returning those and replacing with 2.5 - 4 inch).

Good to know with the control arms, any rear track bar recommendations?
 
You can’t put a number on the answer to your question but anything from a little bit to considerably is the real answer- Everything is interconnected -any extra movement in the back can affect driving and ride-

There are over 40 bushings underneath these

I don’t think everybody needs to go out and buy all the parts to basically drive a new Jeep under one- But if you’ll take the time to learn how the system works and get pretty good at diagnosing play you can spend your money effectively and get results.

At this stage of the game nearly everyone of these on the road needs attention is a pretty true general statement-

The most persistent owners get the best results

I've seen the "master bushing kits" and thought about replacing all of the stock bushings but am unsure how worth my time it is?
 
Why would you need to weld a currie track bar into your jeep? 🤔

The rear track bar seems to require you weld a relocation bracket unless you have a currie rear axle (according to the instruction manual). Maybe I'm wrong and it is a direct fit?
 
My control arms are all shot... every time I hit the brakes, gas or clutch the Jeep clunks...does yours? I've got replacements on order...

I like my Black Max shocks. Affordable. Oro Swayloc sway bar in the front made a huge difference in handling.

If I had the money I'd do a wheelbase stretch, outboard the shock mounts and do Fox 2.0s.

-Mac

Hey Mac,

Yes, replacing front control arms was huge (also let me set positive castor). I hear clunks from the rear every once in a while, particularly going over speed bumps. I have a swayloc on order but seems it probably won't arrive until the end of the month.
 
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The rear track bar seems to require you weld a relocation bracket unless you have a currie rear axle (according to the instruction manual). Maybe I'm wrong and it is a direct fit?

Gotcha. The angled relocation bracket is for slip yoke eliminators. It is recommended that the bottom of it be welded to the axle. I don't have one so i can't say if the contour of the bar needs the bracket to clear other parts. They do have a reputation for fitting better than others.

At 3" lift in the rear(11" spring height) you could probably use a relo bracket of some kind with an adjustable bar like a currie or jks.

Sye and adjustable control arms too depending on rear driveshaft vibrations
 
I've seen the "master bushing kits" and thought about replacing all of the stock bushings but am unsure how worth my time it is?

Most are urethane....squeak

Get under the vehicle and have somebody jounce the suspension and rock it side to side-


Pay attention to the sway bar links and where it mounts on the axle

Check out the shock mount bushings

If somebody can push the vehicle back and forth you can usually see control arm movement

Basically everything that works to suspend the vehicle or control the position of the axles has something at each end that you need to pay attention to

I would try to avoid just throwing parts at it until you get really familiar with everything that’s going on
 
The rear track bar seems to require you weld a relocation bracket unless you have a currie rear axle (according to the instruction manual). Maybe I'm wrong and it is a direct fit?

That is not specific to Currie/RockJock. Any rear track bar might need either a straight relocation bracket with a factory rear driveshaft or an angled relocation bracket for a double cardan rear driveshaft.

The need to weld either bracket in place is a wise option to take, but they can also be bolted onto the factory track bar bracket.