Does anyone know for sure if the big bolt pattern Yukon hub kit uses the outer axel stub from a CJ? Part numbers look to be the same and from what I have found most parts in the kit are interchangeable with the CJ stuff.
Does Yukon hub kit use outer stub axle from a CJ?
- Thread starter jeepndogs
- Start date
The spindle bolt pattern on the knuckle is 3 bolts for a YJ/TJ and 6 for the CJ, not sure if they custom machined a spindle to fit the CJ hub, rotor, and outer axle shaft.
I’m putting together an oh $&*t collection of parts for a Colorado trip coming up. Looking up the part numbers in the Yukon manual last night the axel shafts they list are the same part number for their replacement Cj shafts. I’m going to call them when I get a chance but I’m going with they most likely are Cj shafts. I know the inner bearing kit for the shaft is.
Good luck. I've been trying to get a hold of Yukon for over a week now and they don't answer the phone or return my calls.
I do know that the old school way to convert a Dana 30 to use locking hubs was to cannibalize CJ parts. So it would make sense if it does in fact use a CJ outer.
Last edited:
So I haven’t received any information back from Yukon to confirm but the part numbers listed in the manual for the hub kit is the same as this shaft. https://www.ebay.com/p/Yukon-Gear-A...p-Cj7-Cj5-Scout-II/660191472?iid=113673684022
So I am pretty sure it is the Cj shaft. The bearings actually cross reference to a GM axel.The rear dust seal for the bearing on the back side of the hub is actually a rear main seal bearing for a Ford Pinto. So they must have changed the spindle specks out. Which is weird you would think they would just change the mounting flange area. I may actually pick up a Cj spindle just to compare the two at some point to see what exactly they modified.
So I am pretty sure it is the Cj shaft. The bearings actually cross reference to a GM axel.The rear dust seal for the bearing on the back side of the hub is actually a rear main seal bearing for a Ford Pinto. So they must have changed the spindle specks out. Which is weird you would think they would just change the mounting flange area. I may actually pick up a Cj spindle just to compare the two at some point to see what exactly they modified.
Nice, what trails? I'm off of i70 by Vail if you need anything over this way.
The use of early style (Jeep CJ) Dana 30 inner knuckles (C's) allows you to bolt on early Dana 44 knuckles. Using a combination of the Dana 30 inner axle shaft and a bigger u-joint allows the inner axle and outer 44 stub to be joined together. The right kind of “older” style inner knuckles (C's) are ones that have small holes in the knuckle into which the ball joint studs are pressed. You need the inner knuckles (C's) that utilize the studs that point up.
You can use flat top knuckles from a ’74 – ’76 front open-knuckle Dana 44 axle, found in Chevy K10s, Jeep Waggoneers, and narrow track Jeep 44's. The '76 Chevy K10 outer knuckles are way beefier than the factory Dana 30 outer knuckles. You can use a Dana/Spicer balljoint that is made for the open knuckle Dana 44. So for a 76 K10 you would use the Spicer Ball joints for '76 Chevy K10 4X4. Upper balljoint part #500-1070 and lower balljoint part #505-1156.
To take it even more extreme you can take a Chevy Dana 44 alxe shaft and cut them down to fit the factory TJ Dana 30 (an XJ high pinion Dana 30 is an even better choice here since it bolts in) factory 27 spline or 30 spline if you have an upgraded carrier. Some folks just run custom cut Dana 44 inners.
Custom length inner axle shafts are required because of the different style inner C. The distance between the center of the U-joint and the vertical line through the upper and lower balljoints is about an inch shorter in the CJ yokes than it is in the XJ/YJ/ZJ/TJ/MJ axle C.
You can use flat top knuckles from a ’74 – ’76 front open-knuckle Dana 44 axle, found in Chevy K10s, Jeep Waggoneers, and narrow track Jeep 44's. The '76 Chevy K10 outer knuckles are way beefier than the factory Dana 30 outer knuckles. You can use a Dana/Spicer balljoint that is made for the open knuckle Dana 44. So for a 76 K10 you would use the Spicer Ball joints for '76 Chevy K10 4X4. Upper balljoint part #500-1070 and lower balljoint part #505-1156.
To take it even more extreme you can take a Chevy Dana 44 alxe shaft and cut them down to fit the factory TJ Dana 30 (an XJ high pinion Dana 30 is an even better choice here since it bolts in) factory 27 spline or 30 spline if you have an upgraded carrier. Some folks just run custom cut Dana 44 inners.
Custom length inner axle shafts are required because of the different style inner C. The distance between the center of the U-joint and the vertical line through the upper and lower balljoints is about an inch shorter in the CJ yokes than it is in the XJ/YJ/ZJ/TJ/MJ axle C.
Last edited:
I have a gutted HP 30 and a CJ 30 that is bent, I was thinking of building a hybrid, but the yukon thing peaked my interest...
Reid Racing's Chevy'a Dana 44 outer knuckles bolt onto early style Dana 30 inner C's (inner knuckles) and allow the use of chevy and aftermarket outer parts to include locking hubs.
*Note* To run this outer knuckle you will need to find early style inner knuckles (C's) to weld onto your TJ Dana 30, or your swapped XJ bolt in high pinion Dana 30.
https://reidracing.biz/products/chevy-heavy-duty-flat-top-dana-44-knuckles/
*Note* To run this outer knuckle you will need to find early style inner knuckles (C's) to weld onto your TJ Dana 30, or your swapped XJ bolt in high pinion Dana 30.
https://reidracing.biz/products/chevy-heavy-duty-flat-top-dana-44-knuckles/
They dont exist anymore...which was on another posting that blaine was investigating.
wrong...
Im not talking about the discontinued Dana 30 Knuckles that Reid used to sell...Click the link again. The outer knuckles that I linked are 100% Dana 44 knuckles and will NOT bolt onto YJ,XJ,TJ or MJ inner C's. The knuckles I linked are for Dana 44's However, they will bolt onto early style Dana 30 knucles from a CJ.
Youre confused.
Last edited:
I guess I dont know what I would need those for if I already have CJ knuckles. I also have a set of GM 44 knuckles. The 44 knuckles have a longer reach from the center of the ball joint to the center of the tie rod, which would require a longer pitman arm or you do not get a full turn radius. been there, done that on a CJ, I tried to put bigger calipers on the CJ by using the 44 knuckles, I wound up having to get a dodge van pitman and have it reamed.
Similar threads
