Anyone running air bumps inside coils on rear?
- Thread starter B00mb00m
- Start date
Its a front application part. While bolting is an option. Welding is a much better solution.
B00mb00m
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I got more pictures and info from the guy on facebook who did it. SO if i was going to do it, I would do it like post #6. I'm with @toximus on this, doesn't seem worth it unless i do coilovers and then it would be super easy. I will check to see if I can just plug and play in some coilovers and add some bracing. I verified the fox CO is the same length as my 12" RR, so its really a matter of coilover spring clearance, which i can check during articulation. It might be just a matter of some slight rebuilding of the outboard bracket to clear.
I currently have the LSC's which i believe is the only option in 2.0RR. The damping is good, just that i like a really low damping for cush forest road travel but then those potholes come out of nowhere and they need some serious damping at end of stroke.
I currently have the LSC's which i believe is the only option in 2.0RR. The damping is good, just that i like a really low damping for cush forest road travel but then those potholes come out of nowhere and they need some serious damping at end of stroke.
B00mb00m
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I don't like the ACOS, gimmicky, IMO and expensive. I mean its the cost of a coilover. I also wouldn't want to lose uptravel with the ACOS.
DSCs and a good tune is your hook up. Mine are tuned to hold their own for high speed desert but are so very very comfortable on forest roads and smashing through pot holes and ruts. The way I describe it is that pot holes are heard, not felt. If you don't do whoops you can get away with a slightly more plush tune.
B00mb00m
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Wow ok well mine are definitely felt! Here's my current setup. I paid to have these done by a shop before I had a welder. It looks like I can push the axle mount more toward the brake on the tube and then maybe reshape the back of the tower to angle back instead of straight down.
You may want to check again and see if the spring is actually centered on the frame rail.
B00mb00m
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I was looking at that today, it looks actually inboard of center. Is that what you would expect?You may want to check again and see if the spring is actually centered on the frame rail.
The guy whose picture I posted who did integrate the bump can moved his springs 2" outboard.
Blaine, Have you put cans inside the springs before? What bumpstops do you like to use when you do non coilover midarms?
Yep, and if you want them outboard of center, cut them off and flip them side for side.
I have, won't do it again. I use the Currie with no issues.
B00mb00m
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Ahh good idea! I am probably not going to add air bumps unless I do coilovers.
Is this the Currie set you use?
https://www.4lowparts.com/shop/tjlj-rear-poly-bump-stop-kit/
xxdabroxx
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Are the aluminum spacers that come with the currie kit the only adjustment? IE: you can have 0-1.5" of additional bump over just the poly bumpers? Is that typically enough adjustment or is it likely that one will need washers or additional spacers to dial it in? (Front kit)
Also, how much shock shaft should be showing when the bumps first make contact at full bump?
Their instructions are pretty vague.
Sorry for getting off topic, I was looking at the front bump stop kit but the instructions for the rear are equally vague.
Is there any adjustment included with the rear kit?
Also, the drawing seems to contradict the instructions for the rear...
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9122R
Also, how much shock shaft should be showing when the bumps first make contact at full bump?
Their instructions are pretty vague.
Sorry for getting off topic, I was looking at the front bump stop kit but the instructions for the rear are equally vague.
Is there any adjustment included with the rear kit?
Also, the drawing seems to contradict the instructions for the rear...
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9122R
B00mb00m
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I was wondering the same. I imagine you grind down the spacer if needed or add in washers?
I have a couple aluminum spacers left over from the savvy body lift, i was planning to cut those down as needed to be spacer. Just ordered a set of the currie bumpstops.
I have a couple aluminum spacers left over from the savvy body lift, i was planning to cut those down as needed to be spacer. Just ordered a set of the currie bumpstops.
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We do whatever works without adding too much to the top or the bottom. We space the top down when needed. Shaft showing depends on how hard you might get into it versus how much shaft travel you have. If you have more than 6 up, I'm happy with an inch showing at first contact. If you have 4-5, drop it down to 3/4" or so. If you wind up hitting them hard enough that it gets jarring, add some spacer.
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