What would you use it for in 2WD LO?
I'm trying to think of a practical application for 2WD LO that 4WD LO wouldn't work just as good for.
Picking up where I left off
- Thread starter Chris
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What would you use it for in 2WD LO?
I'm trying to think of a practical application for 2WD LO that 4WD LO wouldn't work just as good for.
@Chris maybe you need to swap in a Sport transfer case, then you can have "Sand Mode" and "Rock Mode"?
Note: Have no clue if this would be that useful or not but happy to spend your money.
Note: Have no clue if this would be that useful or not but happy to spend your money.
Here on the East Coast at least, all the trails I do are super tight, and at times I want to crawl through them really slow. You are inches away from scraping trees on either side in some places where you have to do quick left to right turns to stay on the trail. It's a situation where you don't need 4 wheel drive but you want to be able to crawl through the trail slower than high range while being able to turn the wheel lock to lock quickly. With 2-Lo you get the reduced speed but you don't have to worry about binding up your front axle.
Again probably a regional thing, but I enjoyed the crap out of my doubler while I had it in my TJ.
I’ve wheeled my 231 w/rubicrawler in Moab. I can’t see a need for anything lower than my 7.34 or whatever it is w/5.13’s on 35’s. I’ve done up to their 8 rated trails. Even on steep downhills I can’t see going lower.
I had put the teraflex 2wd low selector in my 231. Hands down the most useless $300 i have ever spent on the jeep.
With the Rubi Crawler you have the option of just 2.72 reduction for cruising from one hard part of a trail to the next. Then when you got to this harder section of trail you pip the Rubi Crawler back to 1:1 and drop the t-case into 4 lo. Get thru the hard parts and back to 2 hi in the t-case and Lo in the Rubi Crawler. While you might hardly ever find situations where the 10:88 is needed having the choice between 2.72 or 4:1 will be nice IMO.
I have similar ratios with the STaK's t-case. 3.05 Lo range and then 5.44 Lo Lo when I need to go slower. It allows me to choose which gearing I want. There are some REALLY steep trails in the Rimrock area where I really appreciate having the low range and wouldn't mind having a little lower even.
I have similar ratios with the STaK's t-case. 3.05 Lo range and then 5.44 Lo Lo when I need to go slower. It allows me to choose which gearing I want. There are some REALLY steep trails in the Rimrock area where I really appreciate having the low range and wouldn't mind having a little lower even.
To do this currently I have just been switching between 4HI and 4LO on my 241OR transfer case. I'll do the tough section in 4LO, then when it comes time to get to the next obstacle, I'll throw it in 4HI and cruise to the next obstacle. Anything wrong with doing it this way?
None that I can see. I was just giving you the reasons why I like having 2 lo ranges to choose from. If you lived some place with more mud or played in sand dunes or snow I'd give you more reasons why having the the choice between the 2.72 & 4:1 made sense. But if you don't need it then don't install it.
a 231 with a Rubicrawler makes better sense than a 4:1. case with one.
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I think I jumped the gun (not the first time). I'll forego the RubiCrawler. I think it makes more sense at this point to put the money towards a hub kit, gears, and lockers.
The more I think about it, the more I realize the 4:1 is really good as it is, and the automatic is just going to make it better (as well as the 5.38 gears).
The more I think about it, the more I realize the 4:1 is really good as it is, and the automatic is just going to make it better (as well as the 5.38 gears).
find someone that needs a 241 and trade plus cash to offset the cost and you will have 2.72 2wd, 2.72 4wd, and 7.39 4wd but the 231 isn't as durable, I'm sure there are buyers that will want to HELP you.
find someone that needs a 241 and trade plus cash to offset the cost and you will have 2.72 2wd, 2.72 4wd, and 7.39 4wd but the 231 isn't as durable, I'm sure there are buyers that will want to HELP you.
I'm not sure I even need it. As I said above, I've been able to get between obstacles just fine by putting it in 4HI. It's not anything to write home about, but it works just fine. I may not be as fast as the guys with the 231, but I like taking my time anyways.
like I said, it makes better sense for a guy without 4:1
He could get the beefed up JB Conversion's 231 with the HD planetaries and wider chain, plus SSYE. But then you'd have to get a new drive shaft. Boy, I love spending his monies!
Agreed...I have the 10.88:1 option and it's only been used to test it out. The best combination is being able to switch between 4:1 and 2.72:1, based on terrain.
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For backing up with trailer 2low is great to have !
@Midnight LJR, how did you deal with the hub kit and wheel backspacing issue?
It appears these Trail Ready wheels have 3.5" backspacing. Given that the hubs kit pushes the wheels out about .875" per side, that's obviously not going to work very well with 3.5" backspacing.
This is unfortunate as I really like these wheels, but I don't want to compromise off-road performance just for the sake of keeping the wheels. At the same time, I also don't particularly feel like spending close to $3000 on new wheels and tires.
It appears these Trail Ready wheels have 3.5" backspacing. Given that the hubs kit pushes the wheels out about .875" per side, that's obviously not going to work very well with 3.5" backspacing.
This is unfortunate as I really like these wheels, but I don't want to compromise off-road performance just for the sake of keeping the wheels. At the same time, I also don't particularly feel like spending close to $3000 on new wheels and tires.
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