Tennessee Red

[gasiorv]

First just a bitch since my wife just looked at me like I am crazy when I was ranting about this yesterday:

No local store (home depot, lowes, 2 local hardware, Northern Tool, We Sell Tools, nor harbor freight) have a 17/32" drill bit in stock!! I even tried Tractor Supply and a local weld shop. I got nutserts to install and no bit!! I already ordered on-line and now have to wait for delivery which has me at a stand still. What is your local go to store for drill bits and other tools?

Bitch done.

My power steering pump was whining pretty bad so I replaced it, while I was at it I decided to install a hydraulic Ram for hydro assist. I got the tapped box and the 6" ram from West Texas OffRoad, install was pretty easy. I know it is not the standard forum PSC setup, but I will give it a go and see how it works. I shortened the ends of the ram and used RTV since there was now no longer room for jam nuts. I welded on the tabs to the currie drag link and I reinforced the axle side stabilizer mount.

I also installed the GR raised side body mounts, pretty easy install. No pics, you all know what side body mounts look like.

I decided to replace the stock Rubicon rock sliders with beefier ones. I should have done this day one because most of my body damage and issues with doors fitting after wheeling is due to the stock rock sliders. As far as body armor is concerned, my initial assessment to go out and wheel it and then armor later was a bad decision. I originally felt that the damage that I would sustain (rear corners mostly) would be cut out later when I stretched the frame and thus who cares about damage. I also didn't want to install new rock sliders because I would just have to install new ones when I stretched. But now I know that I should have armored from the get go in order to keep other things from being tweaked. Hindsight is 20/20. if anyone is reading this in the future note that I learned my lesson the hard way and do the armor. Yes, it will cost you twice (because you armor it in the stock configuration and then will have to redo the armor when you make changes later) but it will ensure things stay lined up. I still am going to have to do my rockers twice (now and when I stretch in the future I will have to install longer rockers) AND I have all the body damage and tweaks. Again, armor up from the get go.

Since I am replacing my rock sliders, I had to redo my A-pillar tie ins. When I started tearing apart I quickly found that my original A-pillar design at the floor feed thru may not have been the best because it allowed water to sit and wick up into the connection. My new design is going to have the plate sit on top of the floor and then have spacers between the plate and the rock slider and the plate will tie into the rock slider. I will also ensure that there is plenty of areas for water to drain.

Rust from water entrapment issue, it not only corroded the plate which was primed and painted, but it also wicked up into the connection which was basically bare metal, lesson learned; don't install bare metal and don't provide a place for water to sit:

Below is just prelim mock up with tacks, final will be much prettier.
Plate on top of floor:

Spacers that will be installed between floor mounted plate and the rock slider, again, I am in mock up stage, don't judge my tacks, I missed completely with my first tack using the point and turn the head method:

Now that I have mocked it up and see that it will work, I am actually going to clean up the cut out in the body channel to allow me better access for proper spacer install and then I will tack it up properly and then clean up, prime, paint, possibly even undercoat.

I guess I will work on that while I wait for my 17/32" drill bit to arrive!!

 

[Apparition]

First just a bitch since my wife just looked at me like I am crazy when I was ranting about this yesterday:

No local store (home depot, lowes, 2 local hardware, Northern Tool, We Sell Tools, nor harbor freight) have a 17/32" drill bit in stock!! I even tried Tractor Supply and a local weld shop. I got nutserts to install and no bit!! I already ordered on-line and now have to wait for delivery which has me at a stand still. What is your local go to store for drill bits and other tools?

Bitch done.

My power steering pump was whining pretty bad so I replaced it, while I was at it I decided to install a hydraulic Ram for hydro assist. I got the tapped box and the 6" ram from West Texas OffRoad, install was pretty easy. I know it is not the standard forum PSC setup, but I will give it a go and see how it works. I shortened the ends of the ram and used RTV since there was now no longer room for jam nuts. I welded on the tabs to the currie drag link and I reinforced the axle side stabilizer mount.
View attachment 271379


I also installed the GR raised side body mounts, pretty easy install. No pics, you all know what side body mounts look like.

I decided to replace the stock Rubicon rock sliders with beefier ones. I should have done this day one because most of my body damage and issues with doors fitting after wheeling is due to the stock rock sliders. As far as body armor is concerned, my initial assessment to go out and wheel it and then armor later was a bad decision. I originally felt that the damage that I would sustain (rear corners mostly) would be cut out later when I stretched the frame and thus who cares about damage. I also didn't want to install new rock sliders because I would just have to install new ones when I stretched. But now I know that I should have armored from the get go in order to keep other things from being tweaked. Hindsight is 20/20. if anyone is reading this in the future note that I learned my lesson the hard way and do the armor. Yes, it will cost you twice (because you armor it in the stock configuration and then will have to redo the armor when you make changes later) but it will ensure things stay lined up. I still am going to have to do my rockers twice (now and when I stretch in the future I will have to install longer rockers) AND I have all the body damage and tweaks. Again, armor up from the get go.

Since I am replacing my rock sliders, I had to redo my A-pillar tie ins. When I started tearing apart I quickly found that my original A-pillar design at the floor feed thru may not have been the best because it allowed water to sit and wick up into the connection. My new design is going to have the plate sit on top of the floor and then have spacers between the plate and the rock slider and the plate will tie into the rock slider. I will also ensure that there is plenty of areas for water to drain.

Rust from water entrapment issue, it not only corroded the plate which was primed and painted, but it also wicked up into the connection which was basically bare metal, lesson learned; don't install bare metal and don't provide a place for water to sit:
View attachment 271380

Below is just prelim mock up with tacks, final will be much prettier.
Plate on top of floor:
View attachment 271381

Spacers that will be installed between floor mounted plate and the rock slider, again, I am in mock up stage, don't judge my tacks, I missed completely with my first tack using the point and turn the head method:
View attachment 271382

Now that I have mocked it up and see that it will work, I am actually going to clean up the cut out in the body channel to allow me better access for proper spacer install and then I will tack it up properly and then clean up, prime, paint, possibly even undercoat.

I guess I will work on that while I wait for my 17/32" drill bit to arrive!!

Seems I order everything online I need ahead of time. My problem is finding it when I get around to the install.

 

[gasiorv]

Few pics of my jeep from our last trip to Hot Springs that were just sent to me from my buddies girlfriend.

Slammer (I had to back up and move right to climb the wall in lieu of falling into hole!!):

Not sure of which trail:

Ingrid's Slab (I hate this slab!! You can get turned sideways and roll so easy):

 

[gasiorv]

Seems I order everything online I need ahead of time. My problem is finding it when I get around to the install.

I have done that and had to order it again just to find a few months later right where I put it.

 

[Brianj5600]

What rock sliders? You could just do boatsides.

 

[gasiorv]

What rock sliders? You could just do boatsides.

I am installing the GR mini boats. With this drill bit set back I will probably have one installed before this weekend and will be wheeling on sunday with one side OEM and one side mini boat

I seriously considered going full boat sides after seeing what noob build did on jeep forum. I have no problem with building up the truss and installing the plating for the actual boat side, but reinforcing the tub and coming up with proper body mounts is what I haven't fully figured out yet. Just not ready to start hacking up the tub yet I guess.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Looks like a great trip.

 

[gasiorv]

When someone asks is there a benefit to raising the side body mounts, you can point them to this pic. The weld at the frame was also cracked.

 

[gasiorv]

And now it looks like this:

I still need to dimple the lower side to allow the bolt to sit flush. I will use the shop press the next time I am at my buddies shop.

 

[jeepster1407]

When someone asks is there a benefit to raising the side body mounts, you can point them to this pic. The weld at the frame was also cracked.

And now it looks like this:

I still need to dimple the lower side to allow the bolt to sit flush. I will use the shop press the next time I am at my buddies shop.

Still not seeing it...

 

[gasiorv]

We made a day trip to Hot Springs this past Sunday. It makes for a very long day, but my day was cut a little short (due to rear drive shaft issue) which got me home at a decent time.

The hydro assist seems to work fine, it seems to have slowed down my steering some but that is not a complaint, it is just something I noticed. Other than that I really didn't notice the steering as better or worse which I guess is good.

We run all the typical Level 4 and 5 trails and I tooks some alternate harder lines and the Jeep worked good with the raised body mounts and the new GR rock sliders. The step on the rock slider did cause me a few issues and they got scraped up pretty hard, but they also saved me from going over at one point. My son really liked having the step as well, he said it made it much easier for him to get in an out. I personally don't use the step, so I don't understand how he is using it? So, I got to see if my wife likes the step, if she does, they will most likely stay and I will just learn to work with them. If she doesn't care either way, I may cut the steps off to get more clearance.

Here is a sample of the scrapes on the rails. Right in front of this pic is also a dent in the tube, I think that is where it saved me from going on my side on a bold line pick. So it goes both ways.

On the trip:
Me
Drew (Samurai on 37's)
Kyle (Samurai on 35's)
Kerry (JKU on 40's)
Chris (JKU on 40's)

We ran: Fun Run, Ult Adv, Four Fingers, Shafner's, Can Opener, Ravine, Slammer, Gorge, Headbanger. I unfortunately didn't take any pics or video of this trip, I will see if anyone else got any pics or vide.

On headbanger, Drew noticed that my rear drive shaft was making a noise while spotting me. After I got to the top of the trail, I climbed under the jeep and the drive shaft had some slop in the rear ujoint. I decided, it was better to drive it back to the trailer now then to keep wheeling and deal with it if it breaks so I called it a day. The rest rode back with me to parking lot to made sure I made it and then they continued wheeling.

Upon pulling out the rear tom woods drive shaft, all three u-joints have play and the socket flange has a clunk. Going to rebuild it completely before putting back in. I did install the stock OEM drive shaft and the angle is too steep and it vibrated very bad when just pulling out of the garage, so I pulled it back out.

Other issues:
Passenger side RCV axle is clicking. It clicks after sitting for a few hundred feet and then the clicking goes away. I don't think it's a big deal, but kind of ticks me off since they are basically brand new (installed in March 2021).
Got a knocking noise in the transmission tunnel area when articulated that I need to find, I looked all over and can't find where anything is making contact.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Cool trip, Dude! Well, except for the whole JKU part..... (Just kidding Kerry and Chris )

On your steering speed issue - what size pulley are you running on the pump? I had that same steering lag issue on my I6 - especially at idle speeds. I swapped to PSC's smaller size pulley and it helped a lot. I had the same issue on the Hemi at first running a stock Hemi pump - thinking it would be enough coming out of a 3/4 ton truck. I also had trouble with that pump overheating. even with a large cooler. I swapped it out with PSC's high volume pump, and now I never, ever notice a speed issue.

 

[gasiorv]

Jeff,
Thanks. I will look into the pulley. I am still running the stock pump so I was considering drilling out the main fitting which should give more flow, especially at idle and low rpm. I will probably eventually upgrade to the PSC pump, but I first have to get a few through college, priorities.

 

[gasiorv]

I have been to Hot Springs a lot the last few years, so this trip I started taking completely different lines to keep it interesting. This was a bold line choice where I think the step may have saved me

My buddy read me the riot act on my hand placement, and he was correct to do so. Keep your hands inside the cage!

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Jeff,
Thanks. I will look into the pulley. I am still running the stock pump so I was considering drilling out the main fitting which should give more flow, especially at idle and low rpm. I will probably eventually upgrade to the PSC pump, but I first have to get a few through college, priorities.

I’ve got this PSC high volume pump with the small pulley and attached aluminum reservoir for the 4.0. If you are interested in giving it a try, PM me your address and I’ll send it over.

 

[gasiorv]

I’ve got this PSC high volume pump with the small pulley and attached aluminum reservoir for the 4.0. If you are interested in giving it a try, PM me your address and I’ll send it over.

View attachment 272901

Thanks. I will pm you.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

it's on its way, Victor. I'll PM you the tracking number, and you should see it tomorrow.

 

[gasiorv]

I needed to get a slightly smaller serpentine belt with the install of the above noted PSC pump with the 4.5" pulley (I measured the stock pulley at just under 5.5").

I found this pdf from gates to be pretty handy:
Gates Belt Dimensions

Stock belt for an 04 TJ with 4.0 and A/C is a K060882, per the link it has an effective length of 88 5/16". Per the link the K060878 had an effective length of 87 13/16 (1/2" shorter). And it fit perfect with the smaller 4.5" pulley. Even if you don't want to use a Gates belt, once you have the numbers you can cross with other manufactures.

If anyone in the future is looking for what belt to run with a 4.5" PS pump pulley, it is the K060878 or any belt with a 87 13/16" effective length. (only valid for later model 4.0 with A/C)

Now just waiting for the new cooler to come in so I can fill with Swepco 715 and bleed one time.

 

[gasiorv]

Along with the PSC pump and reservoir, I installed the BMB power steering cooler. Super simple install, I didn't have to loosen my radiator/condenser at all, just removed the headlight and slid everything in. Bled the system and the new pump with the smaller pulley took care of the slow steering, it steers perfectly now even at idle.

Rear Drive Shaft - Installed 3 new ujoints and a new socket flange into the rear drive shaft and I noted that the H coupler also had some wear since the ujoint caps slid right in by hand. I called and talked with Sean at TW and they are shipping me a new H coupler. Sean recommended I add a limiting strap to the my rear diff (and he is correct) since most of my wear is most likely coming from the short shaft at a steep angle. I could rotate my pinion slightly higher to make it perfectly in line with the drive shaft at ride height; however, that puts my track bar that much closer to my tank so I decided to not rotate it (gives and takes). I added that the limiting strap to my list of to do's, but haven't done it yet. Just another reason that extending the rear seems to be in my future.

I sent an email to RCV about the clicking from basically brand new (shafts are 5 months old) and they basically told me to rebuild it on my own or live with it. From their response: "This is usually caused by wear and a large majority of the time is not an issue. We have had customers that wheeled shafts for 10 years after clicking before having a failure. If you'd like to break it down and send us pictures, we can either warranty or advise a rebuild." I figure I will just keep it greased and wheel it until it becomes an issue. I will see Ricky at RBD at Thanksgiving and will certainly bust his balls over it.

Now just got to do little things between now and then to get her ready for Hot Springs in October. Would like to get a day run sometime between now and then, but my schedule is going to be tight with family and friends between now and then.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Along with the PSC pump and reservoir, I installed the BMB power steering cooler. Super simple install, I didn't have to loosen my radiator/condenser at all, just removed the headlight and slid everything in. Bled the system and the new pump with the smaller pulley took care of the slow steering, it steers perfectly now even at idle.

Rear Drive Shaft - Installed 3 new ujoints and a new socket flange into the rear drive shaft and I noted that the H coupler also had some wear since the ujoint caps slid right in by hand. I called and talked with Sean at TW and they are shipping me a new H coupler. Sean recommended I add a limiting strap to the my rear diff (and he is correct) since most of my wear is most likely coming from the short shaft at a steep angle. I could rotate my pinion slightly higher to make it perfectly in line with the drive shaft at ride height; however, that puts my track bar that much closer to my tank so I decided to not rotate it (gives and takes). I added that the limiting strap to my list of to do's, but haven't done it yet. Just another reason that extending the rear seems to be in my future.

I sent an email to RCV about the clicking from basically brand new (shafts are 5 months old) and they basically told me to rebuild it on my own or live with it. From their response: "This is usually caused by wear and a large majority of the time is not an issue. We have had customers that wheeled shafts for 10 years after clicking before having a failure. If you'd like to break it down and send us pictures, we can either warranty or advise a rebuild." I figure I will just keep it greased and wheel it until it becomes an issue. I will see Ricky at RBD at Thanksgiving and will certainly bust his balls over it.

Now just got to do little things between now and then to get her ready for Hot Springs in October. Would like to get a day run sometime between now and then, but my schedule is going to be tight with family and friends between now and then.

Glad the pump helped with the low speed steering, Victor. Great to see it in action again. I assume that aluminum reservoir fit with no problems, eh?