In ten years, never! I don't know why they even have that option!
To give us all false hope
It just happened!
- Thread starter Irun
- Start date
To give us all false hope
Thanks, I have been so busy with work, kids sports and dance recitals I haven't had a chance to start on them.
Will do. I check daily because I have never gotten an in stock email.
Maybe that option could have been a default set up when they had someone set their page up.
In ten years, never! I don't know why they even have that option!
I’ve been waiting for their armor to come back in stock before ordering, I might end up going the genright route but I’m still holding out for an in stock email notice.
I never received the email on the sliders I bought earlier this year. I just keep their site up in Chrome on my phone now with a refresh on weekdays to check inventory.
OP
The stock control arms have torn bushings, which is impacting the handling. It's time to dig into the Savvy arms, weighing in at roughly 50 lbs, with the hardware.
At least they aren't rusty, with the bolts fused to the sleeve.
OP
Very true. It sucks when they're seized and you need to break out the reciprocating saw!
OP
I've got some touch up paint work to do, and tidying up, but the rears are in. In the process I also installed new rear Moog, K3160, sway bar bushings, which were made in USA.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C59XME/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C59XME/?tag=wranglerorg-20
OP
After working on the control arms, went to go for a test drive and found this!
After working on the control arms, went to go for a test drive and found this!
View attachment 335223
OP
After taking the Jeep for a test drive, the installation of the Savvy control arms induced a significant shimmy between 65 - 70 mph. To be clear this isn't the control arms fault, but rather an error on my part in doing the install. My guess is it's one of two things, or possibly both, happened.
First, I need to re-torque the control arms. When I did the initial torque, the lowers were done to 110 ft lbs and the uppers to 55 ft lbs. The numbers were done from memory and I got 1/2 correct. The factory specification calls for 55 ft lbs for the uppers and 130 ft lbs for the lowers. The 110 ft lb number I had in my head is what I use for the lug nuts. Given the upgraded H/W that comes with the Savvy arms, the stock torque numbers could easily be increased.
Second, when setting the arm length, I usually just start with the factory numbers and go from there. The lowers were set to 16" and uppers to 13.25". The caster measured approximately 7°, but it was hard to get an accurate measurement. The next step will be to verify everything is square and start tweaking the the control arm lengths. The next numbers will be the following:
- Lowers to 16.25"
- Uppers to 14"
Then I'll re-check the caster and do a check on the driveshaft angle. Given this is a low lift, 2", and an LJ, I'm not worried about the latter. However, it will be nice to know. Lastly, all of this is being done on a 2" lift and 32" tires. FWIW, the variations between control arm lengths doesn't change drastically, even with a larger lift. It's just another data point!
First, I need to re-torque the control arms. When I did the initial torque, the lowers were done to 110 ft lbs and the uppers to 55 ft lbs. The numbers were done from memory and I got 1/2 correct. The factory specification calls for 55 ft lbs for the uppers and 130 ft lbs for the lowers. The 110 ft lb number I had in my head is what I use for the lug nuts. Given the upgraded H/W that comes with the Savvy arms, the stock torque numbers could easily be increased.
Second, when setting the arm length, I usually just start with the factory numbers and go from there. The lowers were set to 16" and uppers to 13.25". The caster measured approximately 7°, but it was hard to get an accurate measurement. The next step will be to verify everything is square and start tweaking the the control arm lengths. The next numbers will be the following:
- Lowers to 16.25"
- Uppers to 14"
Then I'll re-check the caster and do a check on the driveshaft angle. Given this is a low lift, 2", and an LJ, I'm not worried about the latter. However, it will be nice to know. Lastly, all of this is being done on a 2" lift and 32" tires. FWIW, the variations between control arm lengths doesn't change drastically, even with a larger lift. It's just another data point!
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A similar thing happened to me when I installed johnny joint control arms on my previous lj. On the first drive out getting onto the freeway I experienced an increasingly intense shimmy that turned into death wobble which I had never experienced before. At the time I had currie steering and new balljoints waiting to be installed but I wanted to try out the new control arms first. I drove home, installed those items and never had any more trouble.
My guess is that the relative sloppiness of my old control arms dampened the effects of worn out steering or ball joints (or both) and installing the new control arms exposed an existing albeit hidden problem.
The torque specs are interesting, I had my lowers off yesterday to grease them. I used the torque specs from Rock Jock’s control arm instructions on there website. They state 90 for the lowers and 50 for the uppers. This is what I used when I installed my control arms last year and had no issues but you have me wondering if that is correct.
OP
Ordered one of these last night. The price was right and claims to be made in USA. I'll give a review once I get and install it!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1853950777...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1853950777...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
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These are what I am going with on my next possible build, coupled with raised body mounts and 1.25 aluminum body mount pucks for the rest of the body mounts. I’ve used the jks version on past projects with great results.
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OP
Thx for that. I'm planning to finish my Savvy lowers tonight. They use Rock Jock Johnny Joints and I hadn't thought to look on their site for installation tips and torque specs. As its the same joint and hardware, I think your numbers are correct. As an aside, I use blue loctite, not anti-seize, on suspension bolts, though I'm not 100% sure about that.
I just did the JKS version of these(https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/woodrows-97-green-tj-moderate-build.51602/page-7#post-1131897). Driver's side was easy:
Passenger's side required some trimming of the lift block and frame side mount for clearance:
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OP
Savvy GTS showed up today. Part's are now starting to pile up!
