I read that thread several times! Awesome ingenuity and write up!
Thanks, it has worked out well so far. Not as big as a HP44 but still stronger than a HP30. It'll be interesting to see how it does with the RCV axles and Bone Fish BJ's that are going in.
@motomick76 when you have the time could you measure how your output on your transfer case is centered? Curious what your numbers are from the inside of each frame rail to the output. Trying to make sure I have mine setup correctly.
Thanks
Thanks
Doing the exhaust for a swap can be challenging, as no two setups are the same, and there is no standard. I had two goals is mind with the exhaust:
1. 2.5" from headers to collector, and 2.5" from the muffler back
2. Mandrel bends, I cannot tolerate the exhaust shop bends
I soon realized with my setup, an exhaust shop type exhaust would not work. I would need to build it myself and assemble my own kit and weld it up. Second, there was a second challenge I did not realize when I purchased my headers, the exhaust flanges. The stock setup does not use a standard three hole flange, but a very specific two hole flange. I only found one place that offers a flange for the header, Vetteworks. They offer the flange setup with gaskets, LS3 Collector. Very helpful Vetteworks were, ended up talking to the owner for an hour about LS stuff.
For the rest, I did my shopping at Summit,
- Summit 2.5" mandrel bend #SUM-670176, quantity of 5
- Summit 2.5" mandrel bend #SUM-670175, quantity of 4
- Summit 2.5" to 3" Y collector #JEX-SU6-4, quantity of 1
- Summit Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler #WLK-17744
- Summit Exhaust Hanger #WLK-35691, quantity of 1
- Summit Exhaust Hanger #WLK-35780, quantity of 2
- Summit 3" Exhaust Tubing #SUM-640030-1, quantity of 1
- Summit 3" Exhaust Flange #SUM-626011, quantity of 2
- Summit 3" Exhaust Flange Gasket #SUM-116001, quantity of 1
- Summit Pipe Reducer #WLK-41973, quantity of 1
- Summit Muffler Tip #PMZ-020
I used the stock exhaust hanging locations, the one under the skid-plate, one near muffler, and one at the end of exhaust. Also installed a flange in front of muffler to allow disassembly. It is critical that you cycle the suspension to ensure clearances, and I did it for the front and back. This takes a lot of time, and I have 4 days of work invested cycling, checking, welding, cutting, re-welding, cycling to ensure fit. End result, I am very satisfied how everything has turned out.
1. 2.5" from headers to collector, and 2.5" from the muffler back
2. Mandrel bends, I cannot tolerate the exhaust shop bends
I soon realized with my setup, an exhaust shop type exhaust would not work. I would need to build it myself and assemble my own kit and weld it up. Second, there was a second challenge I did not realize when I purchased my headers, the exhaust flanges. The stock setup does not use a standard three hole flange, but a very specific two hole flange. I only found one place that offers a flange for the header, Vetteworks. They offer the flange setup with gaskets, LS3 Collector. Very helpful Vetteworks were, ended up talking to the owner for an hour about LS stuff.
For the rest, I did my shopping at Summit,
- Summit 2.5" mandrel bend #SUM-670176, quantity of 5
- Summit 2.5" mandrel bend #SUM-670175, quantity of 4
- Summit 2.5" to 3" Y collector #JEX-SU6-4, quantity of 1
- Summit Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler #WLK-17744
- Summit Exhaust Hanger #WLK-35691, quantity of 1
- Summit Exhaust Hanger #WLK-35780, quantity of 2
- Summit 3" Exhaust Tubing #SUM-640030-1, quantity of 1
- Summit 3" Exhaust Flange #SUM-626011, quantity of 2
- Summit 3" Exhaust Flange Gasket #SUM-116001, quantity of 1
- Summit Pipe Reducer #WLK-41973, quantity of 1
- Summit Muffler Tip #PMZ-020
I used the stock exhaust hanging locations, the one under the skid-plate, one near muffler, and one at the end of exhaust. Also installed a flange in front of muffler to allow disassembly. It is critical that you cycle the suspension to ensure clearances, and I did it for the front and back. This takes a lot of time, and I have 4 days of work invested cycling, checking, welding, cutting, re-welding, cycling to ensure fit. End result, I am very satisfied how everything has turned out.
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You must have a lumpy cam in there. That video of your first start sound real similar to my old boat with a 350HP 350 CI SBC. Brought back memories, for sure!
Honestly, it's not much different than the stock, still at .500 lift, just a bit different timing. Summit #8712 cam. I think it is the headers that give it a lot of the sound, and I do love the end result.
This last Saturday (7/18/2020) took Sarah on here first long trip and trail excursion. Decided on going to Little Naches Wagon Trail. Just did the small runs around the campround. Due to the trail just opening up, it was pretty busy. Overall, she did very good on the trail. 4low, 2nd gear I could idle around and went through everything with little effort. Looking forward to hitting some more challenging trails, and with a group of people.
With the 4.88 and the 33's, gearing is a bit low. At 65mph it is ripping along at 2600-2700 RPM. I did choose the 4.88 for 35" tires, which are going on this fall. MPG was around 11-12, also this has not been tuned yet, and 500 miles on the motor.
With the 4.88 and the 33's, gearing is a bit low. At 65mph it is ripping along at 2600-2700 RPM. I did choose the 4.88 for 35" tires, which are going on this fall. MPG was around 11-12, also this has not been tuned yet, and 500 miles on the motor.
I do have one large concern, and I think it affects every TJ that does a lift, and that is the high speed handling. Feels very shaky and squirrly around the curves, and front end lifts hard when turning. Doing some research, and speaking with other members, I am going to make some changes to the rear control arm mounts, or as its called, 'geometry correction'.
Plan is to redrill the frame LCAM 1" lower, which there is plenty of room, and raise my axle UCAM approximately 2", or same height as track bar mount.
Plan is to redrill the frame LCAM 1" lower, which there is plenty of room, and raise my axle UCAM approximately 2", or same height as track bar mount.
By far the best write up I've found on an LS swap into a TJ. Thx for sharing all the detailed! I am starting my swap this week. I've spent the last few months educating myself and gathering the parts needed. I have a few question I hope you can help with. I have a 2000 TJ 2.5 rubber band motor... I've obtained a 2004 5.3 LS-1 , NV3550, T-Case w/SYE, and all needed harness pcm , throttle etc...
1. Regarding the LUK flywheel you used, will that work with the 5.3 as well, or am I limited to a custom flywheel like the Novak unit?
2. Will the fuel pump you listed work in the stock 2000 tj tank or did you swap out your tank as well?
3. Did you buy the steering pillow bracket from Novak or did you fab it?
4. Would you use Dave's Custom Motor Mounts again? I like their design better then others. Would it be possible to install those mounts without a body lift? I get needing the extra room for a 4l60e but would would like to not lift the body if possible.
Thanks for all your input and time. Sure I'll have more as I read your post again!
Big help!!
1. Regarding the LUK flywheel you used, will that work with the 5.3 as well, or am I limited to a custom flywheel like the Novak unit?
2. Will the fuel pump you listed work in the stock 2000 tj tank or did you swap out your tank as well?
3. Did you buy the steering pillow bracket from Novak or did you fab it?
4. Would you use Dave's Custom Motor Mounts again? I like their design better then others. Would it be possible to install those mounts without a body lift? I get needing the extra room for a 4l60e but would would like to not lift the body if possible.
Thanks for all your input and time. Sure I'll have more as I read your post again!
Big help!!
1. You do not need the Novak flywheel. A standard GM LS flywheel will work, here. Just standard cast flywheel is fine, you do not need expensive billet flywheel.
2. Yes, I have a 2000 tank. You will need to modify the flange on the pump where it sits on the tank. It is a indexing tab, and will need to cut it off. Need to watch how you install it as wrong position will not allow tank float for fuel level to move up and down. Also the wiring harness is not a direct plug in. I failed to take a picture, but you can use the 2000 harness, but mods are needed. Important to have wiring diagrams of everything.
3. No pillow bracket from Novak needed. I needed to move it for the headers I chose. Just made it work around the header. I fabed it from extra parts.
4. Yea, I thought the Dave's brackets worked great. I also used his LS computer mount. I will end up getting his a/c compressor mount and install a/c this winter. You will need a body lift, not possible without a body lift. Which transmission are you going with, I am confused? Listed having a NV3550, but wanting room for the 4l60?
Your LS is a bit different. 2004 should be drive by wire, so you need the pedal with wiring. You are going to want a cable shifter. Any more questions, feel free to shoot me a PM.
Thank you for the reply. It's a big help to have someone that has done this to lean on.
I do have the TAC module and throttle pedal from the donor vehicle and plan on using them.
Sorry for the confusion with the trans.. I did word that weird. I am using the NV3550 trans but was hoping to not need the body lift sense I was using the stock transmission. But it's not a big deal to install the body lift. Then I guess I can lift the fuel tank higher like your mod.
I will be using a cable system for the TC. Am considering Novak's set up for the 231J.
As for the flywheel, I read on Novak's site about the crankshaft depth and how only certain 4.8 & 6.0 engines fit flywheels as opposed to a flex plate. The link you listed doesn't specify 5.3 liters. Is that just because GM didn't offer a manual trans behind the 5.3? I would love to save over $200 buck on the flywheel!
Were you able to use your stock starter as well?
Thanks again for your time. As well to anyone else that chimes in!!!
I do have the TAC module and throttle pedal from the donor vehicle and plan on using them.
Sorry for the confusion with the trans.. I did word that weird. I am using the NV3550 trans but was hoping to not need the body lift sense I was using the stock transmission. But it's not a big deal to install the body lift. Then I guess I can lift the fuel tank higher like your mod.
I will be using a cable system for the TC. Am considering Novak's set up for the 231J.
As for the flywheel, I read on Novak's site about the crankshaft depth and how only certain 4.8 & 6.0 engines fit flywheels as opposed to a flex plate. The link you listed doesn't specify 5.3 liters. Is that just because GM didn't offer a manual trans behind the 5.3? I would love to save over $200 buck on the flywheel!
Were you able to use your stock starter as well?
Thanks again for your time. As well to anyone else that chimes in!!!
You are welcome. I first started this project, there was very little info on LS mated to NV3550, most go to 4L60, and do not wast time with the manual. So I wanted to provide some more accessible information for the next builder, to help with the challenges I faced, and make it easier. I prefer to have my vehicles with a manual trans, and that was one of my main requirements when I first bought Sarah, and that was also main requirement when I did the conversion.
Here is a little factoid about the 4.8/5.3 LS series engines - do you know how to tell the difference from a 4.8 or 5.3 if they were sitting right next to one another? You can not externally, and not by serial # on motor. The only way to tell is to remove the head and look at the bore. The 4.8/5.3 use same crank and block, only difference is bore, rod, and piston. If it works on 4.8, it will work on 5.3.
Is your LS from a truck or car? There is definitely a difference, the truck will have longer intake runners, the car will have the shorter intake runners. When I chose to do conversion, I was more focused that I have the truck engine, not that weather it was a 4.8/5.3. Reason being the truck engines build good torque right off idle better than car engine; the cars build better peak HP, but it is important to understand how we are using the engine. We are not racing, we are crawling and wheeling, we need maximum power off idle, not peak.
I might have steered you in wrong flywheel, but you should not need a $300-400 flywheel. Go here, they discuss flywheel application for 5.3L.
I was able to use stock starter. Pay attention, you will need the Novak bearing #TB3, and Novak pilot bushing #PB-3901357. Radiator, go with Superior Radiator, and pay attention to the oil pan depth. You will want to install the shallowest oil pan possible, it is in my build thread. Go with ARP flywheel bolts, clutch bolts, etc.
I pulled the engine from a running 2004 Tahoe for the same reasons you stated. I will be swapping to the shallow pan as well.
I did order the Novak throw out bearing & PB. I also ordered the Flywheel you used based on the limited info available for manual trans. I agree that if it worked in a 4.8 it should work on the 5.3 as long as it is a 2001 - 05 year.
So all my digging on the web and parts catalogs led me to order the LUK flywheel you use. When I get it in I will take some measurements to verify fit. Fingers crossed, it will work!
I'll report back with results.
Thanks again!
I did order the Novak throw out bearing & PB. I also ordered the Flywheel you used based on the limited info available for manual trans. I agree that if it worked in a 4.8 it should work on the 5.3 as long as it is a 2001 - 05 year.
So all my digging on the web and parts catalogs led me to order the LUK flywheel you use. When I get it in I will take some measurements to verify fit. Fingers crossed, it will work!
I'll report back with results.
Thanks again!
Good choice on engine! The next critical element is how you plan your exhaust. Your choice of manifold/headers are needed for mock up, before final welds are made. There are several ways to route exhaust, some tie them together like mine, some go straight out back and tie them together behind skid plate. I am pretty confident about the choice of flywheel.
Keep me updated on your progress.
Love your LS build. I am also swapping an LS into my 97 TJ with the NV 3550 tranny.
Having trouble finding headers.
Did your BBK shorty headers give you any fitment issues?
Thanks for the fine write up!
Having trouble finding headers.
Did your BBK shorty headers give you any fitment issues?
Thanks for the fine write up!
There were no fitment other than having to move the steering joint. Go to post #29, and you can see how I had to move it and cut the inner fender so joint would clear the header. Also notice these are not normal shorty headers, but are for 10-15 SS Camaro, and require special collector from Vetteworks, and exhaust is VERY tight to maintain 2.5”. The one item I spent the most time was the exhaust, so I suggest to have it planned out now.
I know you already did your steering shaft but I melted the bushing on my shaft and a new lower steering shaft is $150+ so here is a alternative option.
https://www.redrock4wd.com/tjlj-skinny-steering-kit
I'm going to order one and see how I like it.
https://www.redrock4wd.com/tjlj-skinny-steering-kit
I'm going to order one and see how I like it.
Hello again, on your build sheet you list the 10.5 inch GM flywheel. Do you have a part number for that unit? I purchased a LUK flywheel lfw387 from rockauto.com but haven't installed it yet. Getting close to the end of the return window. Was looking to see if it's actually worked in an LS1 ,LM7 5.3 set up. Thanks for the help!