It’s close enough I didn’t have to change my driveshaft

It’s close enough I didn’t have to change my driveshaft

This is good to know. It was a question I had. Mike, your wiring work on the 78’ RV is crazy. Nice job. I wish there was an easier solution to the new fridge.
 
Looks like I'll be doing the JCR slider modification that you did earlier. Getting some popping noise. Sometimes driver's side, sometimes passenger. Everything else looks fine so it must be those long bolts.
 
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Looks like I'll be doing the JCR slider modification that you did earlier. Getting some popping noise. Sometimes driver's side, sometimes passenger. Everything else looks fine so it must be those long bolts.

Yeah, those dumb bolts can get leveraged somehow and move. I hope your tub floorboard isn't wallowed out too much. Mine was pretty minor, and just on one side. I had to fill those holes in. I used some small round plastic hole fillers from Ace
 
Yeah, those dumb bolts can get leveraged somehow and move. I hope your tub floorboard isn't wallowed out too much. Mine was pretty minor, and just on one side. I had to fill those holes in. I used some small round plastic hole fillers from Ace

I probably wallowed the floors a bit when I tightened things down originally. I haven't run them as long as you did before you modified them. Already have the nutserts ordered.
 
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I probably wallowed the floors a bit when I tightened things down originally. I haven't run them as long as you did before you modified them. Already have the nutserts ordered.
Nice. I know it's not fun removing it all and doing it again, but it be better in the end. I also countersunk the bolts along the side and step because I hate those little button heads with allen keys. If you get one that seizes up, good luck!
 
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Start looking at the circuit diagrams now. It takes a bit for them to click, but once they do, you’ll find a whole new level of troubleshooting ability at your finger tips.

Read the first chapter a couple of times, then go look at an easy circuit, like the throttle position sensor.

I found the chapter, printed it out, and started studying. In addition to the challenge of understanding Daimler Chrysler circuits, the project is overwhelming because I discovered I need to swap the dash harness so I have the OD connector, and while I have the dash out I should replace the AC and heat condenser. Plus, with all this I need to do the RMS, and some kind of transmission cooler. It’s just a lot of stuff and a lot of $$$. I can’t imagine how long the Jeep will be down, and I don’t really want to do this when it’s cold this winter, and certainly not next summer, so maybe I’ll look at March and see if I can finish by the end of April. Just plotting my own demise. Carry on…
 
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I found the chapter, printed it out, and started studying. In addition to the challenge of understanding Daimler Chrysler circuits, the project is overwhelming because I discovered I need to swap the dash harness so I have the OD connector, and while I have the dash out I should replace the AC and heat condenser. Plus, with all this I need to do the RMS, and some kind of transmission cooler. It’s just a lot of stuff and a lot of $$$. I can’t imagine how long the Jeep will be down, and I don’t really want to do this when it’s cold this winter, and certainly not next summer, so maybe I’ll look at March and see if I can finish by the end of April. Just plotting my own demise. Carry on…

Sounds like a scope creep issue..
 
I found the chapter, printed it out, and started studying. In addition to the challenge of understanding Daimler Chrysler circuits, the project is overwhelming because I discovered I need to swap the dash harness so I have the OD connector, and while I have the dash out I should replace the AC and heat condenser. Plus, with all this I need to do the RMS, and some kind of transmission cooler. It’s just a lot of stuff and a lot of $$$. I can’t imagine how long the Jeep will be down, and I don’t really want to do this when it’s cold this winter, and certainly not next summer, so maybe I’ll look at March and see if I can finish by the end of April. Just plotting my own demise. Carry on…

Are you sure you need a new dash harness? I thought I'd read others saying that they'd found the plug tied up under the dash? Seems that Jeep used one harness and just tied off the unused plugs when not needed. But I could be mistaken on this too.
 
Are you sure you need a new dash harness? I thought I'd read others saying that they'd found the plug tied up under the dash? Seems that Jeep used one harness and just tied off the unused plugs when not needed. But I could be mistaken on this too.

Depends on the year. 05 and 06 seem to use seperate harnesses, based on options. My 04 contained everything I needed.
 
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I found the chapter, printed it out, and started studying. In addition to the challenge of understanding Daimler Chrysler circuits, the project is overwhelming because I discovered I need to swap the dash harness so I have the OD connector, and while I have the dash out I should replace the AC and heat condenser. Plus, with all this I need to do the RMS, and some kind of transmission cooler. It’s just a lot of stuff and a lot of $$$. I can’t imagine how long the Jeep will be down, and I don’t really want to do this when it’s cold this winter, and certainly not next summer, so maybe I’ll look at March and see if I can finish by the end of April. Just plotting my own demise. Carry on…

So…. Regarding the heater core. I thought about changing mine when I did the tub. However I had more confidence in my old OEM core than I did in any of the replacements available. So I let it be.

If you’re not having trouble, don’t go looking for it. The rear main will be easy to do, since everything else has to come off anyway. Oil pan in the only extra thing you’ll need to do to get access to that.

The cooler isn’t optional. You will need to figure out something there, as well as getting a pan with a bung brazed in and a temp gage. The 400 dollar Setrab isn’t a requirement though. I think the B&M ones are about 60 bucks.

When it comes to the harnesses, make sure the ones you get has all the options you need. Things like cruise control, fog lights, daytime running lights, etc may or may not be there. I don’t have a good way for you to check that out though, because the parts diagrams don’t really explain that part well. Luckily you have two others to look at, so hopefully you can find the correct part number somewhere.
 
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The cooler isn’t optional. You will need to figure out something there, as well as getting a pan with a bung brazed in and a temp gage. The 400 dollar Setrab isn’t a requirement though. I think the B&M ones are about 60 bucks.

👍🏼

Jeremy, check with mrblaine. He was letting people drop ship a Dorman transmission pan (with the drain plug) to him and then he’d braze in a bung and ship it back to you.

I had one done a few years ago and it turned out great.
 
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So…. Regarding the heater core. I thought about changing mine when I did the tub. However I had more confidence in my old OEM core than I did in any of the replacements available. So I let it be.

If you’re not having trouble, don’t go looking for it. The rear main will be easy to do, since everything else has to come off anyway. Oil pan in the only extra thing you’ll need to do to get access to that.

The cooler isn’t optional. You will need to figure out something there, as well as getting a pan with a bung brazed in and a temp gage. The 400 dollar Setrab isn’t a requirement though. I think the B&M ones are about 60 bucks.

When it comes to the harnesses, make sure the ones you get has all the options you need. Things like cruise control, fog lights, daytime running lights, etc may or may not be there. I don’t have a good way for you to check that out though, because the parts diagrams don’t really explain that part well. Luckily you have two others to look at, so hopefully you can find the correct part number somewhere.

My AC evap is out, and has been since 2017. I don’t have to have it. Top comes off in Apr/May and goes back on in Sept/Oct. The heater core you can smell, so I was told it’s leaking, but it still heats, and has been like this since I got it in 2016. I just thought while I’m there fix them, but it’s not required.

The cooler I’ll have to figure out. I can do the cooler before and figure out mounting. I can also get a temp gauge brazed into the pan beforehand. It’s all just another thing to figure out. Thanks for the B&M tip.

Are you sure you need a new dash harness? I thought I'd read others saying that they'd found the plug tied up under the dash? Seems that Jeep used one harness and just tied off the unused plugs when not needed. But I could be mistaken on this too.

I read that 05-06 X models don’t have the OD connector, and I pulled the center part of the dash and didn’t find it.
 
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👍🏼

Jeremy, check with mrblaine. He was letting people drop ship a Dorman transmission pan (with the drain plug) to him and then he’d braze in a bung and ship it back to you.

I had one done a few years ago and it turned out great.

Will do. I should get that in the works before the inflation prices get worse!
 
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Y. It is. It’s a lot of work to get one connector. Entire stereo has to be redone in the process, steering wheel removed, it will be a mess. It’s why I’m reticent to do this. So many pieces I might go 🤪
 
Y. It is. It’s a lot of work to get one connector. Entire stereo has to be redone in the process, steering wheel removed, it will be a mess. It’s why I’m reticent to do this. So many pieces I might go 🤪

Well I'm sure you can handle it... Look at all the other stuff you've tackled lately.

And you're just unplugging and plugging stuff back in. Yes it's a PITA but you'll have a slush box when you're done.