Quiet as of late. Got the Cal Trend seat covers in. Fancy.

On another note, we drove up to Mt Spokane peak yesterday. After a 2.5 mile hike, I tried to start the Jeep and got nothing. Fortunately, I had the Noico GB40. Hooked it up and was back on the road in 3 minutes.
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I had some fluid dripping out of the Dana 44. Decided it was time to change the fluid anyway, so I got a new LubeLocker. I think the problem is the stupid diff bolts that RockHard 4x4 hard hat comes with. They are longer to accommodate, but use an Allen head. Ridiculous, so I got some longer bolts with a hex head and am all good to go. With the pinion tilted so far up it doesn’t take as much gear fluid. I guess that’s ok since no one complains. Gears look good at 12,000 miles
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After getting my new TRE winch rope and safety thimble II, i investigatesd how to make soft shackles out of the good sections of the old dyneema. My son beat me to the project. Thanks Joshua, so cool, and functional. These will be put into service.

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I had some fluid dripping out of the Dana 44. Decided it was time to change the fluid anyway, so I got a new LubeLocker. I think the problem is the stupid diff bolts that RockHard 4x4 hard hat comes with. They are longer to accommodate, but use an Allen head. Ridiculous, so I got some longer bolts with a hex head and am all good to go. With the pinion tilted so far up it doesn’t take as much gear fluid. I guess that’s ok since no one complains. Gears look good at 12,000 miles View attachment 173026
I have the exact same cover and had the same problem. Cover seeped with the Allen heads even with correct tq. I gave one an extra oomph and the head stripped. Swapped em with hex heads, tq'd em up and it sealed up tight.
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I have the exact same cover and had the same problem. Cover seeped with the Allen heads even with correct tq. I gave one an extra oomph and the head stripped. Swapped em with hex heads, tq'd em up and it sealed up tight.
View attachment 173038
Yep, those are the culprits right there! Arghh...
 
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Front pinion at 9.2
Driveshaft at 8.8.
Pretty good, I thought I had it closer to 1* difference, but my calibration could be off.

I was able to extend the wheelbase some. Haven’t measured it yet, but I think I have at least 93” and probably more.

Pics of new arms from @Alex01 coming soon... Thanks, I love them. I really love double adjustables.

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Front pinion at 9.2
Driveshaft at 8.8.
Pretty good, I thought I had it closer to 1* difference, but my calibration could be off.

I was able to extend the wheelbase some. Haven’t measured it yet, but I think I have at least 93” and probably more.

Pics of new arms from @Alex01 coming soon... Thanks, I love them. I really love double adjustables.

View attachment 174079View attachment 174080View attachment 174081
I love those arms. I'm a huge fan of the hexagonal design. Not only can you get a wrench on them, but I would count them off as I turned while doing endless pinion angle tests. I'm glad they found a good home where they will continue to get (ab)used. 😛
 
I love those arms. I'm a huge fan of the hexagonal design. Not only can you get a wrench on them, but I would count them off as I turned while doing endless pinion angle tests. I'm glad they found a good home where they will continue to get (ab)used. 😛
Before I installed them I lightly went over the few gashes with an angle grinder. Glad they come tested and true! Hit the OHV today. Everything seems 👍🏼
 
Front pinion at 9.2
Driveshaft at 8.8.
Pretty good, I thought I had it closer to 1* difference, but my calibration could be off.

I was able to extend the wheelbase some. Haven’t measured it yet, but I think I have at least 93” and probably more.

Pics of new arms from @Alex01 coming soon... Thanks, I love them. I really love double adjustables.

View attachment 174079View attachment 174080View attachment 174081
I like those hex arms too! (despite all the MC hate)
 
Today I took the afternoon to do a fix I’ve been thinking through for a month or more. I learned a lot, and this is a novel solution that could be a write-up for people with the 05-06 manual with MML and BL. The problem I encountered with this setup is that the transmission and TCase are so low relative to the tub that the shifter attachment falls right down into the lower rubber shifter boot and rips it to shreds.
View attachment 47576
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The problem is compounded by the angle change that leans the shifter knob that comes out of the transmission back. Then all the heat starts moving into your cab, which is not fun. What I learned is why the real answer is a TT, but if you don’t have $1600 at the time, here’s a way to fix it so you can stop your feet from feeling like they are in flames :flamethrower2:. If you live in a very cold area, you might not want to do this fix, just enjoy the extra heat!

The 05-06 console is unique. It is not nearly as easy to finagle as earlier model Jeeps. What I needed to accomplish was two things. First, extend the shifter about 1.5”. That will almost get the attachment out of the lower shifter boot. Second, move the center console area back 1”. This is the maximum distance you can move it, since the rear of the console runs into the tub in front of the back seat and your TCase lever and Parking Brake will hit the console too.

1. Remove your shifter bezel by snapping it outward at each of the four corners
2. Unscrew your shifter from the Tranny portion (star pattern bolt about 3/4” long)
3. remove the shifter
4. Remove the 10mm and 8mm bolts holding the lower shifter boot to the tub. Keep it for practicing your template later on. Here’s what it should look like at this point.
View attachment 47564
5. You’ll see the black clips at the mounting locations. There’s no need to remove them.
6. Modify your old lower shifter boot by cutting 1 1/8” off the rear corrugated section and the side that hits the TCase mount. Here a pic of the old and new side by side so you can see where I cut (I used tin snips).
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7. Mount the old one in the hole and trim more as needed till you have it 1” back.
8. Mark new holes 1” above your other holes (except the top hole which you can no longer use) and drill them.
View attachment 47568
9. Check for figment and trim if necessary.
10. Re-install with 10 and 8mm bolts.
11, stick the transmission portion of the shifter up through the hole. I put some Vaseline there just so it would have a lubricant and wouldn’t damage the rubber, but probably not necessary.

Now we are 1” back!
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12. Extend your shifter knob. The bolt size is M8x1.25. And you’ll need it 2-2.5” long, with a spacer and I needed a few washers to take up the slack. Here’s the stock one beside the new extended one.
View attachment 47570
Install that puppy and you should be relatively ready to go. It’s not a perfect solution, the shifter is still too far back, but that’s due to the angle.

In Neutral
View attachment 47571

In 2nd
View attachment 47572

Back together. Everything worked!
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Now no more heat in the cab! This solution allows me to just move everything back forward when I do the TT. I didn’t have to drill the tub, except the new mount in the cup holder. I just used a self tapping screw.

I hope this helps someone out there!

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I’m about to have to do this to my Jeep due to the transfer case drop. How has your lower shift boot held up after doing this? Anymore tears?
 
I’m about to have to do this to my Jeep due to the transfer case drop. How has your lower shift boot held up after doing this? Anymore tears?
No more tears, or heat! 🤣 Presently I have corrected it with a Tummy Tuck. So those days are past days, but it did work without tearing the boot.