I've been reassured that installing the Coyotes won't be as bad as I think it will be.Have you ever installed a set? Doing 120 bolts at three torque stages is no picnic!
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- Thread starter JMT
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Don’t forget the anti-seize. I install them in the living room while watching tv. Sounds like I can install some this weekend since my tires are waiting for me to pick them up!!!Have you ever installed a set? Doing 120 bolts at three torque stages is no picnic!
Anecdotally, each pound of rotating mass you can save is roughly equal to a 5 hp gain. That was the rule of thumb we used back in FSAE days. Heavy wheels and tires make have a HUGE impact to the whole vehicle.
Oh man...I love those classic slot wheels. One of my all time favorites. 5 x 5.5 pattern though, aren't they....
It is interesting they come up with that ratio since backpackers say one pound on your foot is the same as five pounds in your pack.
the Walker Evans.
No Rich, but I am very aware of what is involved in each type of install and beadlocks are easier by orders of magnitude. There are extra tools involved, more wrestling with the tires, drilling, setting the Coyote, and much more. Then there’s nothing to protect the rim. Destroy that and I need to replace a wheel. Then we get to do it all again next year, minus the drilling.Have you ever installed a set? Doing 120 bolts at three torque stages is no picnic!
As for the bead locks, I’ve watched Raceline’s install and there’s no need to torque 3x’s. Once you get the tire on. Just set your clutch on 1 and star pattern them all in, then torque to 14-17. Check at oil changes. All I need is a socket and a torque wrench.
I also have a neck injury that is affecting my arm and anything that requires the kind of labor Coyotes do is not possible for me. I think they are great though. I have no qualms with the design or function
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I want to be able to go lower here in the snow and ice. 4-6 is not uncommon. I won’t probably go below 7 in Moab, but I also just need and want new wheels and like adding some functionality whenever I cough up some dough. If 10psi is all I need, great. I can do that. I run 9psi here. I’m kind of looking for some more functionality on very loose soil too.
I’m open to other functional mods too, like PSC steering, big brake kit (wheel size dependent choice), mid-arm in distant future, hubs, highline. Suggestions are welcome, but I need new wheels soon bc they won’t balance, so that is where I turned first
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Working on it. My wife is a masseuse and a good friend is a chiropractor. My X-rays are very good, so next step is MRI on the 21st. Thanks for your concern. Constant pain is mind numbing. No joke.
NITB is a good hardcore group. NIJ is mostly a social club, but they do go out a lot, just not many hard trails.
I get this part for some types of things and as Irun has pointed out he noticed a difference by going to heavier rims and I realize if you drive on the street and if it's a DD it is more noticeable.
It's been talked about before and I don't know that it has been totally covered but for the off-road side of things does having heavier wheels/tire combo help any in some situations? Not trying to derail JMT's thread. I know for things like tractor pulling and even some of the buggy guys put water in their tires.
Being in pain is no JOKE and anyone who tells you to just walk it off hasn't even been in true pain. I truly hope you can get this fixed and get back to being able to do things again. I know how it can interfere with your life and enjoyment.
Get well buddy.
Crawling is one of the few things where additional unsprung weight helps more than it hurts.
I can see where having more weight down low might make a rig more stable. Compare riding a Harley with a big v twin down low in the frame vs an old UJM. Those four cylinders carry a lot of their weight high. It makes them much tougher to balance at a stop light and you can feel it when you lay it over in a turn too.
Tractors with loaded tires get more traction. They don't give a rip about speed... They need to pull a 20 bottom plow (or a sled) and not spin tires and bury themselves in a field. Some of those guys run double wheels and tires too, to increase their footprint. It's ALL about traction and torque. Not horsepower and speed.
If you were building a sole purpose crawling rig and didn't ever plan on spinning tires or doing anything other than rock crawling, sure, load you tires.
But... In a rig with limited horsepower, weight counts. When you start adding dynamic driving forces to the mix, that's when you start noticing weight. And you're paying for that extra weight every time you accelerate and brake.
It's all about compromise. What works the best for you? I'm not going to say you shouldn't run steel wheels. If they work for you and your like them, you go boi, lol!
However, it's still a fact that rotating mass will have a much larger effect on the dynamics of a vehicle than an equal amount of non rotating mass (whether it be spring or unsprung)
I have a neck pro unit that is providing traction. It’s a job in itself doing ice, taking anti-inflammatory’s, and traction every hour, not to mention going to appointments. I’m glad my masseuse lives in house!
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Ya'll really need to stop doing that. Your tire pressure is fully useless for anyone else unless they run the exact same tire and rim combo with similar everything else. In perspective, I've run 6-7 different tires in JV, not one of them worked at 5-6 psi, all worked at 7-8.
Everyone needs to pick a starting point, check pressure throughout the day to compensate for them heating up and raising the pressure so they know what it it actually is and then experiment to find what works for where they are.
The better question is actually what pressure doesn't work in Moab?
It only takes installing one set of beadkocks to know it doesn’t actually work this way - at least to do it correctly.
When you get to the point where you torque the first bolt to spec, guess what happens to that bolt as soon as you torque the one next to it - it loosens a bit and needs to be torqued again. So what happens is you torque all the bolts to spec and then you have to start over again, and repeat the process until the bolts hold to the torque spec. For me, to get to the point where the bolts stay torqued to spec I have to go around 4 or 5 times.
But still less work that those Coyotes…
Hope you can work out you pain issues, Dude. That’s no fun.
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