Thanks, lots of data points for me to consider... Those pictures is what I am a bit concerned about, not that I do too much rock climbing but as a TJ on 33s that runs with Jeeps w/ 35s & 37s I am looking for full coverage skids so I can keep up; if I had the $$, savvy would be an easy call.

Well I'm glad I didn't impulse buy them last night, I still may get them but this gives me a better idea of the setup. Appreciate the input!
I don't think it would be a problem, but it is plausible. The only scenario I can imagine they would contact anything would be rock crawling. And the rocks would have to be very loose and large. Interestingly, I think JCR could make the slider cover that area. But I don't think it would be as strong as the rest of it because it would flare out front and rear away from the step, with no extra support. At any rate, I'd like to see the Savvy's from underneath.
 
... At any rate, I'd like to see the Savvy's from underneath.

a598adbb6c6907c91b346e9efe878a56.jpg
 
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Late nights, early mornings, you do what you gotta do. The old nerf bars are finally gone. One last pic...bye
View attachment 45833


Obviously rock sliders were needed. This morning I mounted the sliders on the backplates. Used the jack to make sure they were fully seated on the tub before drilling the four 7/16” holes/side.
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Plates are included in the floors for support.
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Added the inner support which attaches to the front two seat bolts.

These are solid. I might prefer some black stainless bolts, but these might tie in well with the wheels. Not sure yet.
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Got it and understand what you’re talking about now. Appreciate it.
 
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Well... I screwed this up.

Used the jack as directed but I guess I concentrated underneath the tub more than getting a tight fit on the slider/base portion. Pretty frustrated don’t really know how I’m gonna fix this .

E948C232-DA7D-4CC6-A76F-8110BCDB6015.jpeg
 
Slot you
Well... I screwed this up.

Used the jack as directed but I guess I concentrated underneath the tub more than getting a tight fit on the slider/base portion. Pretty frustrated don’t really know how I’m gonna fix this .

View attachment 65980
Slot your holes in the tub floor, so you can move it in.
 
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Been absent for awhile. After the last wheelin trip I’ve been on the go. It got a lot of mud on it. I cleaned most of it off. The Jeep has been driving horrible with a shimmy between 40-50mph and just rough all around. I finally broke away and got to Discount Tire today. Jeep is driving like a Lamborghini again, smooth as silk. Very happy! Didn’t take much more weight either.

On another note, a few weeks ago my interior driver door latch quit working. I didn’t tear into it right away. I just assumed that the plastic clip that holds the latch to the guide wire had broken. So I ordered some Crown replacements.
3131DE94-3A57-4833-ACC3-96A4ED3B8189.jpeg

One of the stupid things about these new Crown latches is the word lock is on the wrong side. The Stock one’s have it right.

It was a bit of a pain getting into the door but not too bad. With a little help from my son I got the new latch installed. No pics yet. PUt it back together and that worked. Unfortunately, the unlock mechanism didn’t work. It’s been like that ever since I’ve owned the Jeep, so I went back in and fooled around with this mechanism.

The photo below shows the extent of the movement when I tried to unlock it with the latch.
5691E534-199A-4A9F-B7A5-B1DB9F058AD4.jpeg

The photo below shows how far it’s supposed to open. I put some PB Blaster on the parts and worked it a bit and now it works pretty well with the latch. Very pleased.
02F1A9EB-DFBA-40C4-9203-BCD8F3968BE2.jpeg
 
@JMT do you think maybe some wheel weights got rearranged on the last wheeling trip?
It’s possible. None of the wheels were way off. All less than an ounce, but I can tell you that small amount made a big difference in ride quality.
 
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Been absent for awhile. After the last wheelin trip I’ve been on the go. It got a lot of mud on it. I cleaned most of it off. The Jeep has been driving horrible with a shimmy between 40-50mph and just rough all around. I finally broke away and got to Discount Tire today. Jeep is driving like a Lamborghini again, smooth as silk. Very happy! Didn’t take much more weight either.

On another note, a few weeks ago my interior driver door latch quit working. I didn’t tear into it right away. I just assumed that the plastic clip that holds the latch to the guide wire had broken. So I ordered some Crown replacements.
View attachment 67743
One of the stupid things about these new Crown latches is the word lock is on the wrong side. The Stock one’s have it right.

It was a bit of a pain getting into the door but not too bad. With a little help from my son I got the new latch installed. No pics yet. PUt it back together and that worked. Unfortunately, the unlock mechanism didn’t work. It’s been like that ever since I’ve owned the Jeep, so I went back in and fooled around with this mechanism.

The photo below shows the extent of the movement when I tried to unlock it with the latch.
View attachment 67741
The photo below shows how far it’s supposed to open. I put some PB Blaster on the parts and worked it a bit and now it works pretty well with the latch. Very pleased.
View attachment 67742

Thanks for the info on the latch! I have the same problem, I can't unlock the drivers door from the inside. There was a recent thread on here where someone recommended using penetrating oil on the linkage, but I haven't tried it yet. I was skeptical since I thought something must be broken. Now I see your post and I am much more eager to try it :) How did you get the window roller handle off the door, using the specialty tool (I don't have yet) or the shop rag trick?
 
Thanks for the info on the latch! I have the same problem, I can't unlock the drivers door from the inside. There was a recent thread on here where someone recommended using penetrating oil on the linkage, but I haven't tried it yet. I was skeptical since I thought something must be broken. Now I see your post and I am much more eager to try it :) How did you get the window roller handle off the door, using the specialty tool (I don't have yet) or the shop rag trick?
I tried the rag but ended up buying the tool. $7. It still wasn’t easy to remove. Use a flashlight to see which way you need to go. Usually it’s where the knob is pointing toward the handle of the tool. But if someone has been in there before it could be 180* opposite. The design limits it to those two possibilities. Also, don’t lose the clip! It can shoot off when it breaks free
 
I may need to replace my drives side as well. the return spring that allows the handle to return home broke. It still returns, but is much weaker at doing it.
 
JMT in the past I have used a large paper clip bent into a hook as a makeshift tool to remove door handle clips.

Do you think that could work as a substitute special tool to remove the door handle clip?

Also, was it difficult or time consuming to remove the inside door panel?
I need ro remove mine to address the tj typical plastic panel crack.
 
I tried the rag but ended up buying the tool. $7. It still wasn’t easy to remove. Use a flashlight to see which way you need to go. Usually it’s where the knob is pointing toward the handle of the tool. But if someone has been in there before it could be 180* opposite. The design limits it to those two possibilities. Also, don’t lose the clip! It can shoot off when it breaks free

Thanks for the tips! I have read about the C clip flying off, so I'll definitely be careful with that. I saw a video of the rag method and the guy made it look so easy. After it is loose, it might be a lot easier. I'm fairly certain mine has never been off before. I'll probably try it and then succumb to the tool if I have to!

I'm also wondering, since I won't be replacing the whole lock assembly like you did, that perhaps I can remove the screws at the top and bottom of the door panel and then pry back a bit from the open/rear end of the door. If I did this without removing the whole panel, and leaving the window crank clip in place, would there be enough room to open the vapor barrier just a tad to get a good squirt of penetrating oil onto the linkage elbow shown in your pics?
 
Thanks for the tips! I have read about the C clip flying off, so I'll definitely be careful with that. I saw a video of the rag method and the guy made it look so easy. After it is loose, it might be a lot easier. I'm fairly certain mine has never been off before. I'll probably try it and then succumb to the tool if I have to!

I'm also wondering, since I won't be replacing the whole lock assembly like you did, that perhaps I can remove the screws at the top and bottom of the door panel and then pry back a bit from the open/rear end of the door. If I did this without removing the whole panel, and leaving the window crank clip in place, would there be enough room to open the vapor barrier just a tad to get a good squirt of penetrating oil onto the linkage elbow shown in your pics?
That would be worth a try. Your difficulties would be the vapor barrier that is adhered to the steel panel between that and the plastic door panel. You would need to pull it free to spray in there. Also, it would be hard to aim since you can’t see. Worth a shot I think though.
 
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JMT in the past I have used a large paper clip bent into a hook as a makeshift tool to remove door handle clips.

Do you think that could work as a substitute special tool to remove the door handle clip?

Also, was it difficult or time consuming to remove the inside door panel?
I need ro remove mine to address the tj typical plastic panel crack.
I’ve seen the hook method employed. It can work if you can get it on the small exposed part of the clip. If you use the flashlight to find it you’d be more likely to get a hold of it and pull it free.

Not difficult to remove the door panel. Once you remove all the Torx screws there are fiver six clips holding the panel on, just pull them free, then lift up on the panel and pull toward the rear and it will slide off. It’s self explanatory when you get there. Getting the top of the panel back on correctly is more difficult. Pay close attention to how that part fits on.
 
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I like that color red on Jeeps.
@mav6325 You can go wheeling with that gorgeous red jeep since you live in Athens!
The owner of that jeep is @JMT. ....king, president, CEO, and world leader of Texas Hill Country Wheelers (unofficially).
You should meet up with us some time, i drive down from Dallas.
..it's more than loads of fun and you learn more about jeeps every time !
 
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@mav6325 You can go wheeling with that gorgeous red jeep since you live in Athens!
The owner of that jeep is @JMT. ....king, president, CEO, and world leader of Texas Hill Country Wheelers (unofficially).
You should meet up with us some time, i drive down from Dallas.
..it's more than loads of fun and you learn more about jeeps every time !
Maybe when the new year rolls in, I can make a trip with you guys. Let me know!
 
Just got done reading your build in it's entirety. Damn good job, man! Love it! Your thoroughness is exemplary.

I've got the much maligned Dana 35 and hilariously inappropriate 3.07 gearing in my 04 Sport. I know the Dana 35 should be fine with the 31's that I'm running now vs. the 35's I had when I bought my rig. That said, I've got to do a regear regardless, and I just have a mental hang-up with investing money into that axle... especially if I decided at some point to go back up with a lift in the future (though 33's would be my absolute max). I've been looking to get hold of a Dana 44 for a while now, and toying with attempting the regear myself, so please keep us posted on how it goes! I'm already contemplating the Powertrax install. :)