2005 LJR Flame Red

[DeltaNu1142]

Using my fender flares as reference points... I get 3-3/4" exposed tire on the passenger side and 2-1/2" on the driver side. I'll take some real measurements using the insides of the tires and the frame to confirm how much the rear axle needs to move.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

7/10/2025
151,077 miles

Oil change day. Uneventful drain and refill. I usually run it up to temp and then find things to do while the pan drains. Most of the time I don't even burn myself. Purolator filter and 6 quarts Mobil 1 10W-30 High Mileage.

This is why I do my own maintenance:

Occasionally, I get to catch stuff like this before it bites me. This is the frame-side track bar bolt. Nut is backed off quite a bit... should I replace with a nylock nut, maybe? Cinched that up in the meantime.

Confirmed my rear axle is sitting 1" too far to starboard. I need to push it to port 1/2". But first, I need a T55 wrench with an acute angle on it to disconnect the axle side. It's like 3/4" from the gas tank. Is there any reason I shouldn't replace this with a grade 8 hex-head bolt of the same thread, other than because I hate myself?

EDIT: I can probably jack it up at the frame to get clearance to that bolt. Maybe?

 

[FarFire70]

7/10/2025
151,077 miles

Oil change day. Uneventful drain and refill. I usually run it up to temp and then find things to do while the pan drains. Most of the time I don't even burn myself. Purolator filter and 6 quarts Mobil 1 10W-30 High Mileage.

This is why I do my own maintenance:

View attachment 629522

Occasionally, I get to catch stuff like this before it bites me. This is the frame-side track bar bolt. Nut is backed off quite a bit... should I replace with a nylock nut, maybe? Cinched that up in the meantime.

100% the reason to do your own maintenance - especially the easy stuff like fluids.

I should not need a nyloc there if you get it to the spec torque, but a nyloc wouldn't hurt either if it makes you sleep better.

Confirmed my rear axle is sitting 1" too far to starboard. I need to push it to port 1/2". But first, I need a T55 wrench with an acute angle on it to disconnect the axle side. It's like 3/4" from the gas tank. Is there any reason I shouldn't replace this with a grade 8 hex-head bolt of the same thread, other than because I hate myself?

View attachment 629523

EDIT: I can probably jack it up at the frame to get clearance to that bolt. Maybe?

I'd say go with a trackbar bracket to raise that back up towards OEM geometry and, when you do, run the bolt from the front.

I was foolish and put my bolt in from the rear when I did my lift, as my gas tank was also out at the time and I didn't think twice about it... It was a freaking nightmare to get the bolt to clear the tank when I had to adjust it.

If you keep that mounting spot, no issue going to a 10.9 bolt of the same thread.

 

[FarFire70]

Typo Edited above post: You should not need a nyloc there....

 

[DeltaNu1142]

I was foolish and put my bolt in from the rear when I did my lift, as my gas tank was also out at the time and I didn't think twice about it... It was a freaking nightmare to get the bolt to clear the tank when I had to adjust it.

I put a jack on the frame and just as the rear driver side tire started leaving the ground, I had plenty of clearance to get straight onto the bolt.

However... I can't get it to budge. I want to put heat on it, but I'm worried I'll melt the urethane bushing. I put a breaker bar on it and I'm at the point that I can't get enough torque on the Torx socket without stripping something. I would not be having this problem with a hex head. I'm going to need a new approach. I was thinking I'd drive it down to my local shop tomorrow and bet a tech $20 they can't break it free.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

I did have something funny happen yesterday I've never seen before... I had the transfer case in 4H while I changed the oil, with the parking brake set. A little extra piece of mind to keep it from rolling, I guess. I was on a flat anyway... but regardless, when I was done I shifted through N and 4L, then notched it back up to 2H... but the 4WD light stayed on the dash. It clearly was not in 4WD because there was no binding in the front end as I spun it around the driveway. I've got a properly-adjusted Savvy cable shift kit that's never given me issues.

I shut off the ignition, turned it back on, and... no light. Stuff like that bugs me.

 

[FarFire70]

I did have something funny happen yesterday I've never seen before... I had the transfer case in 4H while I changed the oil, with the parking brake set. A little extra piece of mind to keep it from rolling, I guess. I was on a flat anyway... but regardless, when I was done I shifted through N and 4L, then notched it back up to 2H... but the 4WD light stayed on the dash. It clearly was not in 4WD because there was no binding in the front end as I spun it around the driveway. I've got a properly-adjusted Savvy cable shift kit that's never given me issues.

I shut off the ignition, turned it back on, and... no light. Stuff like that bugs me.

Sounds like a failing TC indicator sensor - pretty cheap. Had mine go out randomly and show me in 4WD all the time even though it was a long while since I had shifted the TC.

Recommend replacing to avoid what looks like an intermittent, that will turn perm, failure of the sensor.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

I got the 5x5 spare adapter plate I designed from SendCutSend yesterday. It’s 0.250” steel. I’ll cut the bottom stud flush and cut the top two to 1/4” or less, then get this welded up. I bought some Dorman studs to install, but I think I want longer ones in case I get an alloy spare to replace the steel wheel.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

Got it back from the shop and slapped some paint on it. Once it dries, I'll mount it up. Clearance is tight, but it fits. It's not close enough for the carrier to rub the barrel of the wheel.

That center hole I left for wires... it really doesn't make sense for where it would punch through the sheet metal of the original carrier. But with the top studs punched out, there's space for wiring if I want to add it later.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

Damn. Just a bit too low. Much higher, though, and I'll have to worry about the carrier clearing the wheel. So... I'm gonna print a spacer and try again.

 

[FarFire70]

Damn. Just a bit too low. Much higher, though, and I'll have to worry about the carrier clearing the wheel. So... I'm gonna print a spacer and try again.

View attachment 638137

What material you planning to print with? ABS // ABS-GF? TPU?

 

[DeltaNu1142]

What material you planning to print with? ABS // ABS-GF? TPU?

I use PET-G a lot. It has a lot of the strength & temp/UV resistances of ABS without needing an enclosure and ductwork to print. For something like this, printing at 100% infill for compression strength is overkill and that’s how I roll.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

OK, I think this whole project is a bust. Or at least, not worth pursuing any further. I printed a 1/2" spacer, and it's not enough. And if I go thicker, I'll need longer studs. AND, at that point, I'm getting closer to the geometry provided by the off-the-shelf spare relo kits.

This is one of those solutions with diminishing returns. I can probably get the tire a little bit closer and a little bit lower than the RC relo spacer I have... but it's looking more like it's not worth the time and effort. Time to go source a used OE carrier.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

I totally forgot about these brackets that come with the MorRyde kit. This'll give me another inch in height and inch in standoff. If I'm lucky, it'll fit without the printed spacer... but we'll see. I just mounted them up and I need to get some grade 8 hardware to see if it'll all fit.

Friggin' rollercoaster, this thing.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

That worked:

It's around 3/4" closer to the tailgate than it would have been with the RC bracket. Probably about the same height, though. Worth the extra work? I dunno. It's a lot of weight hanging off that hinge regardless.

All that's left is to print some snubber spacers and source longer snubber bolts.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

10/15/2025
152,223 miles

It's been quite a while since I even logged into this site. Nothing to note on the Jeep, except that I finally got around to printing some spare tire snubber extensions. I'll be putting those on this week along with the spare before doing winter prep... fuel, battery, etc.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

3/4/2025
152,xxx miles

It's the first day in months that got above 50 degrees F, so I went over to check on the LJR and do a few things. I pulled a front speaker and both rear pods out so I can start working on the stereo. I've got Polk Audio MM series speakers in 5.25" and 6.5" for the front and back, and I'm 3D printing things for both.

Here's my approach to the pods in the front. I used the standard pods on Thingiverse and modified them for the much deeper speakers:

I added Kilmat for dampening, poly-fil for added density, and I printed a TPU gasket (blue is all I've got) to go between the speaker and the mounting face because, why not.

I have some 4-pin connectors coming so I can increase the gauge of the speaker wires going into the pods to 16AWG. The pod lights will use the same connector.

We got more snow this winter than we have in the last five years. It's starting to melt, but it's going to take awhile. This gives me some time to make progress on the sound system before I break the Jeep back out.

These speakers are stout, and the adapter ring on Thingiverse for the rear pods doesn't fit around the speaker. I'll have to modify them before they'll work.

EDIT: rear pods are getting the same treatment:

 

[JMT]

3/4/2025
152,xxx miles

It's the first day in months that got above 50 degrees F, so I went over to check on the LJR and do a few things. I pulled a front speaker and both rear pods out so I can start working on the stereo. I've got Polk Audio MM series speakers in 5.25" and 6.5" for the front and back, and I'm 3D printing things for both.

Here's my approach to the pods in the front. I used the standard pods on Thingiverse and modified them for the much deeper speakers:

View attachment 675317 View attachment 675318 View attachment 675319

I added Kilmat for dampening, poly-fil for added density, and I printed a TPU gasket (blue is all I've got) to go between the speaker and the mounting face because, why not.

I have some 4-pin connectors coming so I can increase the gauge of the speaker wires going into the pods to 16AWG. The pod lights will use the same connector.

We got more snow this winter than we have in the last five years. It's starting to melt, but it's going to take awhile. This gives me some time to make progress on the sound system before I break the Jeep back out.

These speakers are stout, and the adapter ring on Thingiverse for the rear pods doesn't fit around the speaker. I'll have to modify them before they'll work.

EDIT: rear pods are getting the same treatment:

View attachment 675331 View attachment 675332

Super nice work! What’s your full system going to look like? Head unit? Amp?

 

[DeltaNu1142]

Super nice work! What’s your full system going to look like? Head unit? Amp?

I want wireless CarPlay and a volume knob, so the options are sparse. I’m going to try one of the chinesium Android head units, a compact 4-channel amp that’ll do around 100W RMS per channel, and for the subwoofer I haven’t decided. I’m more or less dead set against using the console for an amp or powered sub. The easy way to get a little low end would be a Kicker HS 8 or 10 under the rear seat.

The other possibility is to get another micro amp and follow your lead on a home-built MDF enclosure under the rear seat. Right now I’m leaning toward the easy way to see if it gets me close to satisfied without putting in the extra effort.

 

[JMT]

I want wireless CarPlay and a volume knob, so the options are sparse. I’m going to try one of the chinesium Android head units, a compact 4-channel amp that’ll do around 100W RMS per channel, and for the subwoofer I haven’t decided. I’m more or less dead set against using the console for an amp or powered sub. The easy way to get a little low end would be a Kicker HS 8 or 10 under the rear seat.

The other possibility is to get another micro amp and follow your lead on a home-built MDF enclosure under the rear seat. Right now I’m leaning toward the easy way to see if it gets me close to satisfied without putting in the extra effort.

I put too much weight on having a volume knob. I found I am very happy without a knob because the other features on the head unit far outweigh the knob. Your call, of course, but just sharing my experience. I couldn’t be happier with my Sony. Wireless, flawless connectivity, intuitive interface, great volume control, auto dim, and a mute button.

5-channel amp may solve all your issues. Of course, two amps will do the same thing. I look forward to seeing it. I’m building another system now and the head unit is my big issue. I’d get another Sony but this rig will sit outside topless for months at a time. I love the under seat sub .