Thanks for the reassurance, Victor. ECGS has a good reputation it seems so I should just trust what they offer.
I went with 5.13s. I intend to start preparing the first axle this weekend, things should start showing up next week
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Thanks for the reassurance, Victor. ECGS has a good reputation it seems so I should just trust what they offer.
I went with 5.13s. I intend to start preparing the first axle this weekend, things should start showing up next week
I've had Yukon, G2 and Revolution. They all set up the same way.
Awesome, good to hear!!
It does seem like when you do some googling around there are a lot of people complaining about the supposed QC dropping, but no real examples of "these gears failed at X miles". Even that probably wouldn't mean much since the install is so important
Shoveled out a spot and got to work pulling my front axle while the sun was out today.
Got it out and inside, now I can work on cleaning it and getting some kind of stand going while I wait for parts to arrive. Glad this thing is light and easy to manhandle. Those 14b's look heavyy.
Got it out and inside, now I can work on cleaning it and getting some kind of stand going while I wait for parts to arrive. Glad this thing is light and easy to manhandle. Those 14b's look heavyy.
How to tell us you’re single, with out telling us you’re single…
I bet he has a transmission in his bathtub - and Goddess only knows what's in his dishwasher!
How to tell us you’re single, with out telling us you’re single…
And young. It’s been a cold mofo this weekend.
It started to get annoying at the end yesterday. Impact heats up the bolt, I grab it, it freezes to my glove, I grab it with my other hand, now it's slippery AF and I drop it in the snow
Time to document the gear swap: amateur special!
I started disassembling the old pinion and carrier from my Dana 30. First thing I did was cutoff the old carrier and pinion bearings. The inner races will be used to press the new bearings on the new pinion and carrier.
I'm trying to keep everything labelled so I don't get confused and frustrated. Setup bearings clearly marked as well:
I have everything laid out as it comes out. Since it's my first time, I don't want to be doubting myself on how the pinion goes together or anything. Left side is the old pinion stack, and the right one is all the new stuff. You can see I have the carrier shims inside the races, labelled on paper.
Look how much smaller a 5.13 pinion is than a 3.55 one. Pretty wild.
Measured all the shims from my old setup. Yes I know I wrote "small" and "big" pinion shims like an idiot. For some reason, at the time I couldn't remember why there were two sets... Big ones are for depth, small ones are for preload.
Added them up so I have a starting point when I get to setting up the new stuff:
Additionally, I measured both the new and old oil slingers and oil baffles, and they bought measured out the same. So I shouldn't have to adjust for them.
Next I got to work measuring shims. The carrier came with carrier shims, and so did the install kit, so I had a whole bunch of those to measure. I wiped each individually before measuring. Whew, some of these are so thin the surface tension from the packing oil will try to bend them!
The first pinion bearing got pressed on with the oil slinger, using the inner race from the old pinion:
And the rear pinion bearing race got driven in, it should not need to come back out. Man the edges of the journal are machined sharp, careful when cleaning them out!
The last thing before I can actually start the "fun" part is setting up the carrier. I have a new 3.73+ carrier from Yukon, and will need to transfer my lunchbox locker in as well.
Unfortunately this is as far as I'm getting today. The first step of installing the lunchbox is installing the axle gears and spacers, and use a feeler gauge to measure the space between the carrier pin and the spacers. You're looking for a gap between 0.006 and 0.020. However, I was unable to get my carrier pin through the new carrier. I was kinda disappointed the new carrier didn't come with a new carrier pin - although it came with new ring gear bolts and the roll pin to lock the carrier pin.
When I was down there working, I figured I had the wrong pin. But, now that I am searching, it appears there is no separate carrier pin size for the two carrier types. So I'm thinking something else is going on. There are some threads online of opening the hole up slightly to get the pin in. I don't really mind re-using my pin if it's the right one, it doesn't have any of the wear mentioned in the Aussie locker install manual that would make you want to replace it. It can get it in the old carrier with a few taps with the hammer, definitely an interference fit but it does seem to "bottom out" trying to get it through the new one. I will likely call ECGS tomorrow and see what they think. Hoping I don't need to wait for a new part, I can start actually trying to set things up when I get this together.
One question I had if anyone knows - how do you handle the ten-thousands when measuring shims? It seems like most people are looking to the thousandths of an inch, but if you look at my shim stacks I clearly got a pile of 0.003" vs 0.0035" shims, and even stranger, I got a stack of 0.0027" shims. I even recleaned them and my mic, rezero-ed the mic, and measured multiple points thinking it was wrong, but there are more than one and they double checked out.
I started disassembling the old pinion and carrier from my Dana 30. First thing I did was cutoff the old carrier and pinion bearings. The inner races will be used to press the new bearings on the new pinion and carrier.
I'm trying to keep everything labelled so I don't get confused and frustrated. Setup bearings clearly marked as well:
I have everything laid out as it comes out. Since it's my first time, I don't want to be doubting myself on how the pinion goes together or anything. Left side is the old pinion stack, and the right one is all the new stuff. You can see I have the carrier shims inside the races, labelled on paper.
Look how much smaller a 5.13 pinion is than a 3.55 one. Pretty wild.
Measured all the shims from my old setup. Yes I know I wrote "small" and "big" pinion shims like an idiot. For some reason, at the time I couldn't remember why there were two sets... Big ones are for depth, small ones are for preload.
Added them up so I have a starting point when I get to setting up the new stuff:
- Pinion Depth: 0.0292. Old pinion has a +2 marking, and new pinion has nothing, so I'll add .002 and start at 0.0312
- Pinion Preload: 0.0654
- Non ring gear carrier: 0.0259
- Ring gear carrier: 0.049
Additionally, I measured both the new and old oil slingers and oil baffles, and they bought measured out the same. So I shouldn't have to adjust for them.
Next I got to work measuring shims. The carrier came with carrier shims, and so did the install kit, so I had a whole bunch of those to measure. I wiped each individually before measuring. Whew, some of these are so thin the surface tension from the packing oil will try to bend them!
The first pinion bearing got pressed on with the oil slinger, using the inner race from the old pinion:
And the rear pinion bearing race got driven in, it should not need to come back out. Man the edges of the journal are machined sharp, careful when cleaning them out!
The last thing before I can actually start the "fun" part is setting up the carrier. I have a new 3.73+ carrier from Yukon, and will need to transfer my lunchbox locker in as well.
Unfortunately this is as far as I'm getting today. The first step of installing the lunchbox is installing the axle gears and spacers, and use a feeler gauge to measure the space between the carrier pin and the spacers. You're looking for a gap between 0.006 and 0.020. However, I was unable to get my carrier pin through the new carrier. I was kinda disappointed the new carrier didn't come with a new carrier pin - although it came with new ring gear bolts and the roll pin to lock the carrier pin.
When I was down there working, I figured I had the wrong pin. But, now that I am searching, it appears there is no separate carrier pin size for the two carrier types. So I'm thinking something else is going on. There are some threads online of opening the hole up slightly to get the pin in. I don't really mind re-using my pin if it's the right one, it doesn't have any of the wear mentioned in the Aussie locker install manual that would make you want to replace it. It can get it in the old carrier with a few taps with the hammer, definitely an interference fit but it does seem to "bottom out" trying to get it through the new one. I will likely call ECGS tomorrow and see what they think. Hoping I don't need to wait for a new part, I can start actually trying to set things up when I get this together.
One question I had if anyone knows - how do you handle the ten-thousands when measuring shims? It seems like most people are looking to the thousandths of an inch, but if you look at my shim stacks I clearly got a pile of 0.003" vs 0.0035" shims, and even stranger, I got a stack of 0.0027" shims. I even recleaned them and my mic, rezero-ed the mic, and measured multiple points thinking it was wrong, but there are more than one and they double checked out.
Do you have this bearing puller set?
https://www.amazon.com/Differential...-Compatible/dp/B09NXPBLFZ/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I have the more expensive Yukon kit but if you don't use it every day this would work. It'll save you heartache later on.
https://www.amazon.com/Differential...-Compatible/dp/B09NXPBLFZ/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I have the more expensive Yukon kit but if you don't use it every day this would work. It'll save you heartache later on.
Ha! I actually did order one of those knockoff ones, but the "plug" part was machined wrong and doesn't fit inside the part that is threaded, if that makes sense. They did refund me and let me keep it though... I am thinking it might be cheaper to find someone to turn it in a lathe a bit so it fits right, it just needs a bit smaller OD in the plug section and it'd be fine.
I don't think I should actually need it unless I mess something up since I have the setup bearings, but I guess I'll cross that bridge if I come up to it. Luckily I'm not reusing either carrier.
Don't be afraid to ping hoser and blackjack for gear help when you need it!
Definitely! I want to try to get as far as I can on my own so I know I can work it out in my head - but I'll definitely be looking for confirmation before I call it done.
In my head I'm hoping to already have done the "that pattern looks good, try adding 2thou to see" part when I ask for help to see how close I can get on my own. But we'll see if I can get that far on my own first..
Did you buy setup bearings or make them yourself? Even with setup bearings getting your final setup you want to use your actual bearings and if you need to pull them off you'll need the clamshell puller.
If you mean the piece that fits inside? I'd see if you can get it turned down. Believe me before you're done you'll need the puller.
If you mean the piece that fits inside? I'd see if you can get it turned down. Believe me before you're done you'll need the puller.
I bought them. I figured it was one less unknown for me to have to worry about.
I'm confused what you mean, I thought the entire point of the setup bearings was that you can figure out all the shims before pressing on any bearings? What am I missing there.
Yeah this piece is has an OD a bit too big:
I'll have to see what I can find.. last time I tried to find a machine shop it didn't go well but that was for more than a quick turn on a lathe. I do agree I should get it usable since they refunded me and all.
This piece is what I think you're talking about? It's meant to go inside and act as a spacer between the carrier and the screw on the puller.
With setup bearings there is that SMALL amount of movement between the bearing and the pressed surface so you lose 0.002" of movement when going from the setup bearing to the actual bearing. So when getting CLOSE it's better to check with your actual bearings for the final setup.
Yep that part. Go to 7:45 when he puts the threaded section over the plug part - the plug part is too thick that I have and it won't go over. I could maybe still use it for a pinion.
Here is the lip that it doesn't fit through, the one inch or so in, the manufacturer on Amazon wanted some pics:
I see what you mean... Hmmmmmm.
Trying to think through this.
So the shims move the bearing in the axis of the red line... And the material shaved off the inner race will introduce play on the other two axes, drew a blue one to try to visualize. So when I start to try to measure stuff, the entire carrier will be sitting "lower" than it would with the final bearings since the slightly larger inner race opening has less thickness. I think I see what you mean. It'll barely be different but when you're measuring 0.001"...
Yep you've got it... I've always just made my own setup bearings so I'm sure I have more play than the ones you have but yes on the pinion setup bearings and then the carrier setup bearings that little bit of play can mess you up. I chased my tail for over a week on my rear axle a couple years ago.
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