CodaMan's 2004 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
- Thread starter CodaMan
- Start date
OP
Unfortunately no. It's only seasonal and the amount of water depends on the amount of rain, so it may be dry by June this year.
Well, I have officially nixed the idea of having these painted at the paint shop. The guy I would have them painted by gave me a quote of $450 labor, and I have to supply the paint. If I cannot do this myself, they go up for sale. I look forward to seeing your results.
The hinges I painted came out ok color-wise, just not as smooth as the rest of the Jeep. Not being well-versed in auto painting, I think it's a matter of wet sanding to achieve the correct sheen, but I'm not sure on that.
OP
I never did, no. They are mounted on the Jeep, and there's not a lot of surface area to get a buffer on, unless the buffer was pretty small. I'm open to ideas.
OP
gg1
TJ Enthusiast
$450 is very high not to mention you supplying the paint. To paint a fender on my Jeep was $125 a side and they have the paint. My hood, fenders, front grille and blending and fixing a small spot on the underside was $1400 and that was two new fenders from Keystone that are 100 times better than Crown. I think you could get a better price from someone.
Love those pictures on your land. Nice looking TJ!
I too have been hanging out on the YouTube paint videos. I don't think this will be a big deal to get close. Like I said, the hinges I painted came out just right, color-wise, just not as shiny as the rest of the paint around the windshield area. You have to look pretty close to tell.Don't really know. I'm not a paint guy either, just a YouTuber
A larger item like a half door, on the other hand, should be easier to sand/buff after the paint application, in order to get the right finish. If they are not perfect, who really cares? They are summer doors, and on and off at that. As long as the color matches, great. I could also paint them a semi-gloss black, similar to the bumpers and mirrors, but I think that might look somewhat goofy.
May I ask, did you consider 3" springs? and how did you settle on 2"?I get a lot of members asking for details on my lift, so I thought it appropriate to provide the information on it here, along with some gratuitous photos of course
Parts I used in my lift (approx. $550 for everything listed):
1) Pro Comp 2" Springs (Front) — EXP55297
2) Pro Comp 2" Springs (Rear) — EXP55298
3) Rancho RS5000X Shocks (2 Front) — RS55239
4) Rancho RS5000X Shocks (2 Rear) — RS55241
5) OME Rear Track Bar Reloaction Bracket — ARB FKWTJ02
6) Daystar.75" Spacers — KJ09108BK (note: only used above front springs for leveling)
7) Rock Krawler Bump Stop Extensions (Front and Rear) --RKSRK05611 (note: Comes with 6 1" extensions. Glue or bolt 1 to each spring bucket at the bottom of the front springs; I used this RTV Adhesive and it worked great. Then bolt 1 above each bump stop cup on rear springs)
Here are top on/top off photos to get a perspective of it with 265/75R16 tires (basically 32's):
View attachment 40057
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I'm considering buying my lift in parts like you did but still learning here
OP
I did, but since I don't ever plan on regearing to run 35s I could go with a 2" lift and add a 1" body lift if I want 33s. Plus, once you go 3" you have to add adjustable track bars and probably some adjustable control arms to fix pinion angles which will double the cost of the lift. So it was a "what do I do with the Jeep and what mods are required to do those things"
OP
Thanks. I will be adding a 1/2" (.5) body lift in the next few weeks and that should be about it suspension wise.
Billwynburger
TJ Enthusiast
OP
Magua
New Member
I get a lot of members asking for details on my lift, so I thought it appropriate to provide the information on it here, along with some gratuitous photos of course
Parts I used in my lift (approx. $550 for everything listed):
1) Pro Comp 2" Springs (Front) — EXP55297
2) Pro Comp 2" Springs (Rear) — EXP55298
3) Rancho RS5000X Shocks (2 Front) — RS55239
4) Rancho RS5000X Shocks (2 Rear) — RS55241
5) OME Rear Track Bar Reloaction Bracket — ARB FKWTJ02
6) Daystar.75" Spacers — KJ09108BK (note: only used above front springs for leveling)
7) Rock Krawler Bump Stop Extensions (Front and Rear) --RKSRK05611 (note: Comes with 6 1" extensions. Glue or bolt 1 to each spring bucket at the bottom of the front springs; I used this RTV Adhesive and it worked great. Then bolt 1 above each bump stop cup on rear springs)
With this lift, did you keep the stock control arms and front track bar? I've got different springs than you, otherwise, I'll be doing about the same lift to my Rubicon. It seems like I can find guys here that have left these stock and others that went adjustable control arms and track bars with the 2" lift.
OP
I kept the control arms and front track bar stock and everything has been just right.
MakJeeps
New Member
Hi @CodaMan,
I noticed you used the RS5000Xs 2.5" VS the 0-2".
I have seen recommendations that have advocated for both lengths as the correct shock.
It's almost as if there really isn't a wrong answer.
What made you choose the longer 2.5" over the 0-2"?
I have researched this for days now. I'm probably overthinking it.
Thanks in advance,
John in NC
I noticed you used the RS5000Xs 2.5" VS the 0-2".
I have seen recommendations that have advocated for both lengths as the correct shock.
It's almost as if there really isn't a wrong answer.
What made you choose the longer 2.5" over the 0-2"?
I have researched this for days now. I'm probably overthinking it.
Thanks in advance,
John in NC