Does control arm bushing composition affect ride quality or NVH?

Ok, got ahold of Rancho, their D2 bushing which looks exactly like the Synergy DDB pressed into their rod end is a 1x14 thread for the upper and lower ends. Which sounds kinda small for a lower.
Fargo, how was your butt dyno app thingy results? Tim
 
astjp2 said:
Fargo, how was your butt dyno app thingy results? Tim
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Not much more to report. I was out of town for the weekend. My earlier test was in my Pathfinder. As stated, I tested it first with snow packed in the wheels then again after I cleaned the wheels. Its was a rough test of the app since it was VERY obvious the tires had snow packed in them and they were severely out of balance. But the app proved to register the vibration as a significant difference. So I am hopeful that it will also record smaller differences, such as you would find in control arm bushings or tire changes.

I understand Mr Blaines point that the only place that NVH matters is in the drivers seat. But since the drivers seat is mounted to the same body as the windshield, I'm not sure if a special seat mounted bracket is necessary. Although it certainly would get more direct to the point. So I was thinking I might just try to find a good windsheild mount or some way to mount the phone in a rigid position so the results are not affected by the mounting of the phone. I don't think the steering column is a good place, it seems like the steering column would have additional NVH directly through the steering linkage.

The bigger problem is that I don't have any control arms or anything to test. All I can do is say that the app works for recording NVH. At this point someone else would have to test different arms. I wish my buddy still had his JK, then I could test arm angles by changing the mounting points on his AEV drop brackets. But he sold that for a JL. So in short. Until I purchase a new set of arms, I can't test anything more. Maybe someone changing out arms can download the app and provide some feedback.
 
I just called on some tubing, 1.25x.188 to build me some upper arms, $77 for 6' and I maybe able to get by with 5'. I think I will order the Rancho ends, for the uppers, that will save me $40 then a set of synergy cold cut rings and DDB's and I will be in about $220 for 4 upper arms...including replacement joints for the front axle.
 
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astjp2 said:
I just called on some tubing, 1.25x.188 to build me some upper arms, $77 for 6' and I maybe able to get by with 5'. I think I will order the Rancho ends, for the uppers, that will save me $40 then a set of synergy cold cut rings and DDB's and I will be in about $220 for 4 upper arms...including replacement joints for the front axle.
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If I was building arms, I would do something like the Savvy where you could use different ends on each end of the arm. Then if your needs change or the DDB doesn't work you could screw in a different end with a JJ. The downside is that would be more expensive again.
 
Well if I use the cold cut rings, they seem to be the same size as the clevites. If the synergy's fail, I am back to rubber on one end and what ever joint I want on the other.
Oh by the way, the Rough country uppers use 3/4" diameter threads on their rod ends. Not really a choice for me but more to add to the body of knowledge.
 
Ok, if I build all of my own uppers, and rebush my lowers would cost 785 using all DDB's/d2's with 7/8" and 1" double adjustable upper rod ends and fixed lowers, welded it tube inserts and jam nuts...This winds up being half of most other similar quality kits...
 
OK, so I just got off the phone with one of the alternate joint vendors, all of the Girro/DDB/D2's are make by the same company in Australia. So that is good news. Now if that is the route you want to go, just order the options and features you want from whatever vendor has what you need.

I am still working on a ddb bushing replacement for the rough country forged track bar. It would be an affordable option and an upgraded to the clevites that is the rough country track bar if you have a high articulation vehicle. Mall crawlers will be ok with it as is.

Tim
 
astjp2 said:
OK, so I just got off the phone with one of the alternate joint vendors, all of the Girro/DDB/D2's are make by the same company in Australia. So that is good news. ....

Tim
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Nice to have confirmation on that. I had long expected that to be the case. Although I didn't expect Australia to be the source. Maybe that is why Old Man Emu was one of the first to offer a DDB bushing. This helps to relieve some concern about buying Synergy (or other) DDB arms and then have them discontinue support for the TJ.
 
astjp2 said:
I am still working on a ddb bushing replacement for the rough country forged track bar. It would be an affordable option and an upgraded to the clevites that is the rough country track bar if you have a high articulation vehicle. Mall crawlers will be ok with it as is.

Tim
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What are you defining as a 'high articulation vehicle'? I tried looking up your profile for suspension information, nothing there...
 
Well I am in the process of building an 05 LJ that was a salvage jeep. It will be the basic short arm 4" with 12's stroke shocks. I have my 4.6 stroked YJ that is stretched 2.5" and has 7" of spring under and body lift, and I just sold a stockish TJ that the wife used as her daily driver, and now she has an LJ. I mostly bomb around the desert, not much into rock climbing yet...So high articulation would be one that can articulate more than what the clevite bushings were capable of without binding or damaging the rubber bushings. Johnny joints have infinite ability to rotate and goes 30 degrees laterally, these other bushings will rotate around the center bushing but do not quite have the same lateral deflection. Which is enough for most drivers...and it is just another option besides a Jonny joint. Tim
 
Ok, some news on this. the Clayton Giiro Joints are nothing like the Synergy DDB other than shape. The Giiro joints sleeve is loose in the bushing where the DDB's are bonded. An upper DDB weighs more than the lower Giiro joint which is almost twice its size. The outer housing on the Giiro joint is a plastic along with inner part of the bushing where the sleeve rides. The sleeve is also a few thousands loose. I ordered DDB's and will be sending the Giiro's back. Tim
 
Ok, I weighed them and took a comparison pic

IMG_0284[1].jpg


IMG_0285[1].jpg


IMG_0286[1].jpg
 
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That is very interesting. I would have expected the DDB sleeve to pull out as well. Isn't that where the teflon liner is so it can rotate freely? I'd still expect the DDB to do the same, but maybe only after some wear on the bushing. It seams the DDB has tighter tolerances.
 
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