Duroflex vs Johnny Joints...again

If you see no value behind adding 2/4/5 small flat spots on one end of the tube, there is no reason to continue this
I see 0 value since it creates more issues than it solves. Refresh my memory though, you know, just to get some fucking background on your experience level so we know how much value should be placed on it. How many sets of arms have you built from scratch and what joints, end treatments etc. were used for what reasons? I'm going to put good money on ZERO.
 
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Having messed with each also, I'm curious about the installation of these. For the MC joints, I had to do nothing to center them during the installation, but ensure the joint was parallel with the mount (i.e. the barrel self centered). During the installation of the JJ's, I had to manually center the barreled ball at ride height, to ensure they were in a neutral resting position. I'm not sure if this was something I needed to do, but it just sort of made sense. Did I overthink this? To be clear, I'm not saying the MC joint is better because of this, because it isn't. I'm simply curious!
not really the center i was referring to.

look at the design from the center out.
both have a bolt, ok.
both have a steel barreled ball center, all good.
what's next inline here? .........the material holding the barrel. which 1 will control the barrel better in relationship to staying centered in the casing under a torque load.
if torque load can be applied and off center is achievable is full range of motion then not effected negatively as torque would push center over out of the maximum movement zone or center of the casing diameter.
is this also a way to mush a dry joint into the casing and tear it all to hell?
 
Great technical info in this thread regarding Johnnys.

But for sake of reality how many forum rigs have 14” of travel?

And of those what percentage of the time are they at max travel?

Does everyone owning a TJ needs Johnnys?

Regrading the wrench flats, instructions on assembly using anti seize would be wonderfully helpful for many.
 
Great technical info in this thread regarding Johnnys.

But for sake of reality how many forum rigs have 14” of travel?
That's the whole point and the distinction needs to be clear that it is 14" of travel at the shock. Very few even get close to that much travel and if a JJ doesn't even break a sweat at that much, how much more do you really need? The question isn't which has more, the question is how much is actually needed?
And of those what percentage of the time are they at max travel?
The consideration is breaking the jam nuts loose and ruining threads in the arms. So, if you were right at the limit, there could be situations where you could cause damage. Fortunately, the JJ and similar are nowhere close to being maxed out.
Does everyone owning a TJ needs Johnnys?
Not even close. The vast majority would be best served with a set of Double Clevite arms.
Regrading the wrench flats, instructions on assembly using anti seize would be wonderfully helpful for many.
Wouldn't it though?
 
I think I should update my profile. I have a set of double adjustable MCs...I should state that I actually won them on a $10 raffle ticket! If I actually had to buy myself, would go with the JJ.

I tend to listen to advice from people such as @mrblaine. They deal with this stuff more in a week than most of us will see in our lifetime. Being a small business owner where reputation and quality means everything, they're going to lead to lead you in the right direction rather than take you down the wrong path for the sake of making a sale.
 
What would even be more awesome is if someone could post up an angle finder on a fully articulated axle with 14" of shock travel (not the same as wheel travel which is always more) and then show how far the joints are from bottoming out on the sides of the mounts. It isn't even close and then we would have a very clear understanding of why asking the right question is more important to see through all the bullshit that is out there.


20210904_134031.jpg
Front axle, shocks are just short of 12" of travel and are very near full articulation. Maybe an 1/8" compression left. The opposite spring is barely loose in the seat.
The angle finder was zeroed out on the bumper. The axle is 17.8° relative to the front bumper. The JJs have quite a bit more room left to roll if the shocks allowed it.
20210904_134356.jpg
 
View attachment 275061Front axle, shocks are just short of 12" of travel and are very near full articulation. Maybe an 1/8" compression left. The opposite spring is barely loose in the seat.
The angle finder was zeroed out on the bumper. The axle is 17.8° relative to the front bumper. The JJs have quite a bit more room left to roll if the shocks allowed it.
View attachment 275064
Looks like the axle angle could easily go to over double the 17.8 degrees and still not be close to maxing out the range of motion on the JJ.
 
I see 0 value since it creates more issues than it solves. Refresh my memory though, you know, just to get some fucking background on your experience level so we know how much value should be placed on it. How many sets of arms have you built from scratch and what joints, end treatments etc. were used for what reasons? I'm going to put good money on ZERO.
I have built over 4 sets of control arms in my tj lj and jk history . All with JJ s. JK upper rears a compund bend was fun. On my current LJ I am installing

20210828_222159.webp

I cant build them for that price AND pay for my time during the building process.
I have other things I can build that make it worth my while.
 
Wow....I got a lot of good info from this thread...I'm going w/JJ's for sure. Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction.
I'm only doing a 4" lift now but who knows where I'll end up. I plan to keep this Jeep as a toy for the long term and I think the Curry control arms are the most likely to cover anything I decide to do in the next year or two. I also have to explain to the wife why I'm spending more on the control arms alone that I could buy a complete lift with shocks for. :)

I do have a couple more questions though - why are the steel single adjustable control arm kits more expensive than the aluminum double adjustable ones(from Savvy's website).

Are Johnny Joints generic? I mean will parts for one brand work with another usually?
 
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Johnny Joints are strictly made by Currie or Rockjock, who is owned by Currie. There are some who make look-alikes but they're not Johnny Joints and they're not made with the same quality or strength.

No idea why Savvy's aluminum double-adjustable arms are cheaper but don't argue, go with them. They use the real thing, real Johnny Joints.