Jeep Jeffrey

[Christian.mers]

What platform are you talking about?? Magnum? LS? Hemi? That would help to know to offer any advice as to cost..



If you've got the time for it to be down then rebuild the current transmission. If you need it NOW then pickup a rebuilt unit and keep the current one as a spare.



Well I know which way you swing...... OOPS I mean lean....

4 popper & auto is just anemic so even for those prices I'd still do a Magnum V-8 swap.

I know this isn’t what you want to hear considering you hate the LS but it’s a 5.3 Vortec.

For my 32RH's, I've used the Pro-King CR-90 from Advance auto. You'll want to verify what you need for your 30RH (since you have a 4cyl). I don't think I would want a used TC....I like to roll the dice way more than the next guy, but it's a ton of effort to be wrong on that.

What pan do you use? I bought this one from Advance because I didn’t want to pay the $250+ for a skyjacker pan especially when this trans has already been giving me issues

 

[Wildman]

I know this isn’t what you want to hear considering you hate the LS but it’s a 5.3 Vortec.

I don't hate the LS. I think it's a good platform I just am not a fan of ONE into a TJ. And even if you could get the donor rig for that price I'd guess it'd be $3K-5K to put LS TJ.

 

[Christian.mers]

I don't hate the LS. I think it's a good platform I just am not a fan of ONE into a TJ. And even if you could get the donor rig for that price I'd guess it'd be $3K-5K to put LS TJ.

How’s that price differ from the Magnum?

 

[Wildman]

How’s that price differ from the Magnum?

You could do a Magnum V-8 swap for under $1K in parts. So if you could find a wrecked Ram 1500/Dakota/Durango/Grand Cherokee with a 5.2 or 5.9 in it you'd need the motor mounts from Advance Adapters. And then building an exhaust system. Have to decide how you want to do that.

I knew guys who did their swaps for less than $500 after they sold off the donor rig. The problem now is that the last Magnum V-8 was offered in 2002 with a very few rare 5.9's offered in 2003. So you're talking about a 12+ year old engine & most will have 200K + miles on them so you'd want to rebuild it first. So my guess would be $5K now to do one. If you found that rare rig with only 100K miles on it then you could take the chance without doing a rebuild.

There are only about 19 wires you need to blend with the Dodge engine harness to do the swap so making the wiring harness is easier.
Just like if you did a LS swap you're going to need a new rear axle. You'll most likely need new driveshafts.

 

[hear]

Here's the pan. It's $60 now.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...0GDJ2KwtUyy59fU3_Nkk_nlc6037ytOwaAm8zEALw_wcB

 

[Christian.mers]

How's this?
what options should I select?
Add steel clutch plates
Add reverse band 1.375" solid or 2.00" double wrap or Both styles
Thrust Washer Set
Full Bushing Set
Overrun Sprag

 

[hear]

You can do it cheaper on ebay. I don't use OPT any more, just because the ebay kits are perfectly fine if you're not building a race vehicle.

I would get a kit that includes new steels.
You very likely don't need to replace the low/reverse band, yours is probably a double wrap. I think the other style is for older 904's. If you drop the pan I can tell you what you have.
Yes on thrust washers
I usually don't have to replace the bushings, but you have to inspect for wear. Requires a press.
Unlikely you'd need to replace the overrun clutch. The OEM is steel, the replacement I got from OPT had a plastic body, which was disappointing.

You didn't mention kickdown band. Some kits include it, some don't. I would replace it.

 

[Christian.mers]

What else would you get? Could you link an eBay kit you’d use?

 

[Christian.mers]

You can do it cheaper on ebay. I don't use OPT any more, just because the ebay kits are perfectly fine if you're not building a race vehicle.

This??

 

[Christian.mers]

Here's the pan. It's $60 now.

No clearance issues?? I have the same pan and when I put the filter and extensor in they fit perfectly. I then try to slide the pan on and it contacts the filter and the skid plate at the same time so either I drop the skid plate or I remove the filter and try to somehow put it back on by sticking my hand in the pan and doing the good ole reach around. Keep in mind I have no lift or drop down on my skid so that might be why it’s different for me

 

[Christian.mers]

I’m already in there so might as well replace the Low/Reverse band so what should I go with @hear?

 

[hear]

This??

Yeah, I guess prices have gone up. You can follow the FSM or my videos, but the ATSG guide is pretty good to have as well.

I’m already in there so might as well replace the Low/Reverse band so what should I go with @hear?

The L/R band is only used in Manual 1 & Reverse, but in both cases it really only holds it from an already stationary point so it generally sees nearly zero wear.

 

[hear]

No clearance issues?? I have the same pan and when I put the filter and extensor in they fit perfectly. I then try to slide the pan on and it contacts the filter and the skid plate at the same time so either I drop the skid plate or I remove the filter and try to somehow put it back on by sticking my hand in the pan and doing the good ole reach around. Keep in mind I have no lift or drop down on my skid so that might be why it’s different for me

So you're currently able to remove the pan w/o dropping the skid? Isn't that a royal pain to get to those back bolts? There are no clearance issues with the deeper pan, but you do need to remove the skid to work on it. I swear that is not an actual change to the process though. I've never removed the pan without first removing the skid.

 

[Christian.mers]

So you're currently able to remove the pan w/o dropping the skid? Isn't that a royal pain to get to those back bolts? There are no clearance issues with the deeper pan, but you do need to remove the skid to work on it. I swear that is not an actual change to the process though. I've never removed the pan without first removing the skid.

I can get those back bolts with my 3/8 Icon torque wrench and my Pittsburgh flex head ratchet no issue at all.

You can see in this picture how much room I have for activities

 

[Christian.mers]

So you're currently able to remove the pan w/o dropping the skid? Isn't that a royal pain to get to those back bolts? There are no clearance issues with the deeper pan, but you do need to remove the skid to work on it. I swear that is not an actual change to the process though. I've never removed the pan without first removing the skid.

So you remove it every time?? Any tips and tricks?? I’ve never dropped it

 

[Christian.mers]

Should I go with the CR-90 for my 30RH or would it not mesh properly?

 

[hear]

I honestly don't know.

Autozone says you need a CR-97. I might look at the parts diagrams under the resources section to see if the TC part # changes across the 6cyl vs 4cyl.

 

[Christian.mers]

Went up to work where my jeep is parked to see if I can find the leak. Outlet to the Cooler looks like my issue, any thoughts on how to repair @hear?

 

[hear]

Went up to work where my jeep is parked to see if I can find the leak. Outlet to the Cooler looks like my issue, any thoughts on how to repair @hear?

My first guess would be the fitting itself. I always forget which one is the quick disconnect....mainly because I swear the fittings are different on every 32RH I look at. Clean it up, dry it off and then determine if it's leaking from the hole (thread sealing problem) or from the fitting itself as the tube passes through it.

 

[Christian.mers]

I’m pretty sure it is quick disconnect. The issue is for sure the fitting and not the line or threads. Any idea where I can source a new fitting or how I disconnect it? Will a normal fuel line disconnect or work?