Let's talk trailers

I have a 20' tilt deck trailer with carries my LJ plus a couple of motorcycles but have been considering a car dolly for pulling behind the motorhome. When I am not dry camping in the desert, the trailer becomes an issue in campsites. The car tow dolly would be much shorter to stow while not using it.
Never owned one, just trailers. Downsides to a Car Tow Dolly? Flat towing seems to cup my front tires.

Car dollies are great for moving 2wd cars. So much lighter than a full trailer!

If you wanted to go as light and small as possible you could use a tow dolly and high speed dolly to get the rear tires off the road. Or use the high speed dollies front and rear and a tow bar. Theoretically, anyways. I've never seen anyone do that.

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Will be buying a hauler sometime this week. Still looking around but damn it seems like way too many choices in brands here in NC. 18-20’ and 10k axles at the minimum. I’m looking at 2 in particular, a Texas Bragg one and a southern utility, both netting those criteria.
However, one only has d rings and the other only has stake pockets, is one better over the other?
https://www.hgrstrailer.com/2024-te...5200lb-axles-car-racing-trailer-NAJq|Fqe.html

https://tjstrailers.com/view-detail-page/95311/Southern-Utility-7x20-Car-Hauler/
 
Will be buying a hauler sometime this week. Still looking around but damn it seems like way too many choices in brands here in NC. 18-20’ and 10k axles at the minimum. I’m looking at 2 in particular, a Texas Bragg one and a southern utility, both netting those criteria.
However, one only has d rings and the other only has stake pockets, is one better over the other?
https://www.hgrstrailer.com/2024-texas-bragg-trailers-18-2-hch-heavy-duty-with-5200lb-axles-car-racing-trailer-NAJq|Fqe.html

https://tjstrailers.com/view-detail-page/95311/Southern-Utility-7x20-Car-Hauler/
I would keep looking. If you have to chose one of those, get the one with stake pockets. You can buy d-rings that go in the stake pockets.
 
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I'm not familiar with either of the brands you posted, but don't overlook Kaufman. Built and pick up in Denton.

https://www.kaufmantrailers.com/

I looked on their site and have rented a Kaufman in the past and really liked it, but I can’t seem to find what’s in stock. I assume everything is since it’s built here. May just give them a call this week
 
but I can’t seem to find what’s in stock. I assume everything is since it’s built here. May just give them a call this week

Yeah, I would expect everything to be in stock, or a reasonably short build time. Every time I drive by that yard, it's full of trailers and trailers being shipped out. I had a guy tell me a few years ago that they take trade-in trailers, so they might have a used inventory too, but I don't know that for sure.
 
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@Jamesval035 You asked about D-rings vs stake pockets. In my opinion, a stake pocket with rub rail is the best. Rings can be added later pretty easily, but they tend to be located for specific loads and are not very versatile. The rub rail setup will give you virtually unlimited tie points and add some bumper type protection.
 
Yeah, I would expect everything to be in stock, or a reasonably short build time. Every time I drive by that yard, it's full of trailers and trailers being shipped out. I had a guy tell me a few years ago that they take trade-in trailers, so they might have a used inventory too, but I don't know that for sure.

I’ve bought 3 Kaufman trailers. All custom built, with a reasonable lead time. Very good quality. My current version is a 20’ 10k, wide option with stake pockets and rub rails.

As you know, my load is a bit heavy for the 10k capacity, but the trailer is first rate.
 
I’ve bought 3 Kaufman trailers. All custom built, with a reasonable lead time. Very good quality.

They're everywhere around here, but that makes sense because they're manufactured about 30 minute drive from me. I'd say at least 1/2 of the trailers we see are Kaufman, and I've used plenty of their trailers over the years from small equipment to heavy equipment and never had an issue beyond general maintenance. How did you go about getting custom build, just call and ask?
 
They're everywhere around here, but that makes sense because they're manufactured about 30 minute drive from me. I'd say at least 1/2 of the trailers we see are Kaufman, and I've used plenty of their trailers over the years from small equipment to heavy equipment and never had an issue beyond general maintenance. How did you go about getting custom build, just call and ask?

You can go online and configure the one you want, and then speak to a sales person to finalize everything. It’s a
fairly easy process. I picked them up there as well.
 
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I suffering from a bad case of analysis paralysis over a choice of 10k hauler. I've got to be able to load the LJ and occasionally my tractor, which pushes me more towards a utility trailer with less care about load angle and more tie down points. On the other end of the spectrum I have a fairly low Miata that I'd like to be able to take to the track now and again, which would be easier with a beavertail and longer ramps or even something that tilts. Then there is aluminum vs. steel frame, hard deck or wood, too many choices! I will head over to the biggest dealer in town soon and see if a chat and a look in person will help me commit to any particular model.
 
I suffering from a bad case of analysis paralysis over a choice of 10k hauler. I've got to be able to load the LJ and occasionally my tractor, which pushes me more towards a utility trailer with less care about load angle and more tie down points. On the other end of the spectrum I have a fairly low Miata that I'd like to be able to take to the track now and again, which would be easier with a beavertail and longer ramps or even something that tilts. Then there is aluminum vs. steel frame, hard deck or wood, too many choices! I will head over to the biggest dealer in town soon and see if a chat and a look in person will help me commit to any particular model.
You can get an equipment trailer with a longer mesh ramp that looks like a utility trailer ramp.

Aluminum trailers are usually heavier than their steel counterpart because of the extra bracing for the same weight rating.

I wouldn't have a steel deck. They are very slick when wet.

When I was looking, the extra cost to go to a 14k trailer over a 10k was minimal, so I wound up with a 14k trailer. I like the adjustable height coupler on the 14k trailers.
 
You can get an equipment trailer with a longer mesh ramp that looks like a utility trailer ramp.

Aluminum trailers are usually heavier than their steel counterpart because of the extra bracing for the same weight rating.

I wouldn't have a steel deck. They are very slick when wet.

When I was looking, the extra cost to go to a 14k trailer over a 10k was minimal, so I wound up with a 14k trailer. I like the adjustable height coupler on the 14k trailers.

I meant to say equipment vs car focused hauler, points well taken! I like the idea of an equipment trailer with all those features but longer ramps or maybe even ramp extenders for the rare need for a low vehicle.
 
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I have a 16' trailer with Dexter 3500lb axles and I have had numerous bearing issues and more recently a bent axle. I wouldn't put a built Jeep on anything with less than 5k axles. The added weight of axles, tires gear etc. plus the weight of the trailer itself is too much for the light weight "car" trailers.

Also, aluminum is great for weight, but I have repaired several cracks in aluminum trailers pulling much lighter loads than a heavy Jeep. They are also thief magnets IMO.
 
I’m going to call Kaufman tomorrow and see what’s available. I will go with an equipment trailer for the 2’ dove tail. All of their car haulers are metal and have a 4’ tail. I guess it’ll be a toss up between a 10k 18’ or a 14k 20’ equipment hauler. Have a trip planned to ivy branch at the end of the month so not sure how much customization I can get and the lead time for it.

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For what it’s worth, I don’t do dovetails on mine. I’m off highway enough with mine that the dovetail would drag for me. Also, the dovetail does shorten your effective cargo area. The dovetail does allow you to run shorter ramps, or possible get away with no ramps at all. But, they also make it more difficult to load a low clearance car.
 
For what it’s worth, I don’t do dovetails on mine. I’m off highway enough with mine that the dovetail would drag for me. Also, the dovetail does shorten your effective cargo area. The dovetail does allow you to run shorter ramps, or possible get away with no ramps at all. But, they also make it more difficult to load a low clearance car.

Agreed, but unless I go custom, it is difficult to find one without a tail or pay 1-2k more. I’m trying to stay at $6k or less. It would be nice to get something like this but man it’s $$$.

https://idealtrailernc.com/inventory-detail/load-trail-85x20-10k-car-hauler-30788-100760
 
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Agreed, but unless I go custom, it is difficult to find one without a tail or pay 1-2k more. I’m trying to stay at $6k or less. It would be nice to get something like this but man it’s $$$.

https://idealtrailernc.com/inventory-detail/load-trail-85x20-10k-car-hauler-30788-100760

Did you look at Kaufmans tilt deck stuff? These are the ones I keep looking at, probably more the equipment one, even though it's heavier than I need, but I'm looking for one trailer to haul my lowered cars and my tractor. Jeff is right about dove tails being a barrier for low riding vehicles. Also, I highly suggest wood decking vs the steel.


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https://www.kaufmantrailers.com/car-trailers/tilt-car-trailer/

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https://www.kaufmantrailers.com/equ...vwr-deluxe-wood-floor-tilt-equipment-trailer/
 
You can get an equipment trailer with a longer mesh ramp that looks like a utility trailer ramp.

Aluminum trailers are usually heavier than their steel counterpart because of the extra bracing for the same weight rating.

I wouldn't have a steel deck. They are very slick when wet.

When I was looking, the extra cost to go to a 14k trailer over a 10k was minimal, so I wound up with a 14k trailer. I like the adjustable height coupler on the 14k trailers.

Ditto on the steel deck. I've built several trailers myself and the steel deck was a mistake. Sold it rather quickly. Wood deck is versatile and easy to care for. I slap on a coat of used engine oil on it every couple of years and the current deck looks good after 15 years of use.
Current build is a 20' deck with 4' tongue so I don't have to worry about hitting the tow vehicle bumper on tight back up. I can also open the tailgate of my truck without hitting the trailer jack. Most in stock trailers come with 3' tongue.
102" wide at the fenders.
Stake pockets with a rub rail.
Tilt deck with two 3' ramps that slide inwards for smaller loads such as a Miata without hitting the lower cowling.
Two 5000 lb axles, with brakes but without a drop. 16" rims. No dragging the the back thru dips and driveways.
Easy to load everything from the daughter's Miata, wife's 300zx, my LJ or the John Deere.
It is a little heavy(3600 lbs empty) but very versatile.
 
Ditto on the steel deck. I've built several trailers myself and the steel deck was a mistake. Sold it rather quickly. Wood deck is versatile and easy to care for. I slap on a coat of used engine oil on it every couple of years and the current deck looks good after 15 years of use.
Current build is a 20' deck with 4' tongue so I don't have to worry about hitting the tow vehicle bumper on tight back up. I can also open the tailgate of my truck without hitting the trailer jack. Most in stock trailers come with 3' tongue.
102" wide at the fenders.
Stake pockets with a rub rail.
Tilt deck with two 3' ramps that slide inwards for smaller loads such as a Miata without hitting the lower cowling.
Two 5000 lb axles, with brakes but without a drop. 16" rims. No dragging the the back thru dips and driveways.
Easy to load everything from the daughter's Miata, wife's 300zx, my LJ or the John Deere.
It is a little heavy(3600 lbs empty) but very versatile.

I’ll add that the big downside for a steel deck is it gets crazy hot in the sun, compared to wood. Hot enough that you can’t lie on it to work under the rig.