New guy with a TJ6

Here's a better shot of the 15" gap.

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I used what used to be the front bolt holes for the rear seat as the rear bolt holes. The seat sits a couple of inches further back. I used the stock roll bar and built supports on the wheel wells then added an extra section on the rear that bolted to the normal rear roll bar bolt holes. Added a front cage that's welded to the stock bar. I'll need to get pics of that as well.

The flat fenders and stock inner enders came on the TJ when I bought it. I left them the way they were but I had an issue with the wheels having enough room so I highlined them. The items under the hood were in the stock positions since the inner fenders were still stock and I wanted to keep them that way. Had to fabricate new fender mounts and add a section from the fender wells to the fenders. The biggest pain was modifying the battery shelf and the shelf on the driver side that holds the ARB compressor. Both are still in stock positions. I'll get pics of those.
 
Both the 14 bolt rear and kingpin Dana 60 front use Artec truss kits. Both are full width. I did not go with coilovers so they run springs. It makes the front a little tight and limited options due to getting around the springs. I run a single highsteer arm on the passenger side and use the lower mounts for the tie rod. All ends are TREs since they are pretty strong and cheap/easy to source. I also run steering assist via a PSC ram. I got rid of the Mercedes steering box and went with a saginaw box that I drilled and tapped (a little more effort is needed for this swap). I also swapped out the power steering pump with one from a WJ and added a WJ cooler. I ran into clearance issues with the hoses that came with the PCS ram (too short) so I sourced another hose that was much cheaper than PSC but just as good. The same connectors work.
 
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For brakes I used the same front calipers that came on the Dana 60 axle and put El Dorado calipers on the rear. The rear is a bit tricky since you can order just the cable kits for the rear. Besides, keeping them adjusted is a pain so I opted for something different. I know I'm supposed to have a mechanical parking brake for the rear but that's not what I'm using. I'm using an inline master cylinder for the rear parking brake that holds pretty well. It does bypass a bit but works for what I need and actually worked better than the stock one with the D44s I had.

I also replaced the stock master cylinder for one out of a Durango since it's .25 in larger in diameter. I did not replace the booster. The stopping power is pretty good. I don't think I need to make any changes at the moment.
 
The sliders are custom made since LJ sliders would be 5" short. I had 3/16 plate bent and then I shaped it based on the Rubicon sliders I had (used the Rubicon sliders as a pattern). Bent the nerf bars so they stuff out a bit more than most in order to protect the doors a little more. They also provide a good stepping area.

Rear fenders were made out of EMT and sheet metal. I wanted them to cover the wheels a little more than the 3" ones I had. The ones I made are 7" to help prevent getting pulled over. I've already crushed one side a little from my flop earlier this year but a hammer and persuasion helps out.
 
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Front bumper is an ARB full width bumper that was cut down. It was already on the Jeep when I got it. My sons thinks it's the ugliest thing on it but it functions. I may swap it at some point. The rear bumper is the smallest from RuffStuff. My wife requires a spare so I added a tire carrier that mimics a Poison Spider. I would have liked to use a swing carrier however the tire is too damn heavy so I opted for the other design. It's a PITA to get in the back but prevents me from hurting my back and provides a slider of sorts for the departure angle. The tire will not be hit coming off of a rock.
 
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For several months my wife hated that thing. I spent most of my time working on it and she resented it. The cost wasn't an issue for her, which I was glad, but the time, noise, smell (metal smell from grinding and cutting as well as welding), and mess was almost too much for her. Now that it's basically complete (we'll see about that) she absolutely loves it. It's super stable and it's easy to drive. Cruising at 75 on the freeway is no problem (until I hit a hill). It's a lot better driving now that it was on 35's with the Dana 44's and I have to say most of that was due to the hydro assist and the wider/longer stance.

I'm still waiting on Russ to finish the work on the donor head and case he has so I can start putting the stroker together. That's the next chapter. I'll follow up some of this things I talked about with pics.
 
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This is part of the 15" that was added. It gave me a little extra room on each side of the seat. Sorry the floor is dirty but wheeling happens.
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This is from underneath. I added stiffeners to make sure the floor doesn't flex and that the bolts had something thicker to bolt to. You can also see the inline master cylinder for the parking break.

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These are pics of the highline fenders using the stick inners so all of items connected to the fenders are in stock locations. Notice the rise for the fenders.
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Under the sliders

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This is part of the area that was added to the tub. I used a C channel on the bottom to tie it in.

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Minimal rear bumper with the tire carrier. You can also see my re-enforced skid on the stock gas tank skid. It's heavy but takes a beating.
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I still have a few things to do but I haven't done anything since we had a flood in the house and that had to be repaired. I bent something in JV a few months ago and have a vibration but haven't gotten under to have a look. I'm still waiting for my stroker parts (hopefully getting them next week) so I can start on the engine build. I think I also need to replace the inner axle shaft on the driver's side. Replacing the seal didn't help so I think it's probably bent (I didn't check it when it was out). It's not causing the vibration though since the front diff doesn't spin while on the road due to the unlocked hubs.
 
Here's a pic from the rear showing the shave kit installed. You can see the difference from the early 14 bolt pic.

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I was able to test drive it around the block to make sure everything went well. Next was putting the tub back on.

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Right at 15" which will allow the LJ top to fit.

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Had to cut the tub to fit the new 40s.

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Unfortunately, I don't have pics of the body work that had to be done. Making the tub strong enough for sliders to attach to and support the weight was needed. Butt welds on sheet metal had to be done everywhere and it took me a little while to get it right. I also got sections of top rails cut from donor tubs so the LJ top would fit correctly. I also had to do a lot of spot welding. Automotive joint sealer did a great job as well. I'll get some pics of the finished product so you can see how the 15" gap was filled. I have a feeling no two TJ6's are the same when it comes to this area.
I noticed you didn't french the rear shock towers. Any contact at all with the tire or axle?