Nth Degree Mobility Owners Resource Thread

I have the complete Nth degree 4in long arm lift with guards and up grades. The tie rod has Nth degree on it. Very heavy duty. Looking to replace all the ends. Hope this helps.
Thanks
After a lot of searching I found my Jeep has the Nth87110 TJ Heavy Duty Steering System. The good news is it was made by Currie and the ends are still available.
Thanks
 
Does anyone have the Nth Degree TT Installation Instructions Figure 16? Supposedly it shows the 1/4" deep 'window' in front of the shifter cane isolator housing needed to clearance the '04+ manual trannys.
 
I went back and looked at my paper copy. “Figure 16” along with some verbage have been removed.

The information you are looking for may or may not of been important. I don’t remember any issues that came up with cutting a square hole.

Also, I used a 1.25” body lift, Boob proof motor mount 1”lift, and a 1” Steering riser bracket. Have not had any shifting issues.

See the attached image.
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Does anyone know where to find the bushings for the rear Dana 44 stinger? Seems like a fiber-embedded rubber.

Which bushing are you looking for? Can you post a picture of it? That would help us to try and help you out.
 
Does anyone know where to find the bushings for the rear Dana 44 stinger? Seems like a fiber-embedded rubber.
07-18 jk wrangler factory front upper shock bushings work. They are a tad soft but our other options are getting slim short of making derlin bushings in the lathe.

It'll take a stack of washers to keep the rear from rubbing metal to metal.

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Thanks David. I forget you were a Nth Degree dealer before also. Really appreciate your help.

Happy Thanksgiving.
 
HI DAVID CAn i get you phone i have a problem with my rear tru loc 44 rubicon
07-18 jk wrangler factory front upper shock bushings work. They are a tad soft but our other options are getting slim short of making derlin bushings in the lathe.

It'll take a stack of washers to keep the rear from rubbing metal to metal.

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Good evening all. I have a 2003 TJ Rubi with a 6" Nth Degree Long Arm lift. The bumpstops are starting to dry rot and I'm sure many of the bushings are shot. I found this thread researching and it looks like lots of good info. I'm curious if there have been any updates since the last post above? Is there somewhere that we can purchase replacement parts? Unfortunately, I think tracking down individual parts from some of the sources referenced above is beyond my capability...as well as the install. I plan to talk to a local shop but thought I would try to do some research myself as well. Thanks in advance!
 
JK4AER, and all those still using the stinger, after fighting stress crack issues for years with the stinger mounting, I finally ditched it and couldn't be happier. While the stinger (torque link) was a great concept, the execution was a little light for serious wheelin'. I made a mount in the center of the TT to accept a third link and attached it to the axle with a truss. There must be inherent bind it the original setup because I gained a fair bit of rear droop, to the point of having my coils unseat from the mount. I went this route as opposed to a four link to reduce rear steer and allow the track bar to keep the tires off the frame during full compression. I'll post some pics as soon as I figure out how. LOL
 
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Pics of the rear third link conversion. I did reinforce the backside of the TT as well, and to date I haven't seen any signs of deflection.

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JK4AER, and all those still using the stinger, after fighting stress crack issues for years with the stinger mounting, I finally ditched it and couldn't be happier. While the stinger (torque link) was a great concept, the execution was a little light for serious wheelin'. I made a mount in the center of the TT to accept a third link and attached it to the axle with a truss. There must be inherent bind it the original setup because I gained a fair bit of rear droop, to the point of having my coils unseat from the mount. I went this route as opposed to a four link to reduce rear steer and allow the track bar to keep the tires off the frame during full compression. I'll post some pics as soon as I figure out how. LOL
I'd say the frame end upper needs to be at least 3" higher to get rid of some extra antisquat! The frame end of the nth lowers are over 2" higher than the normal frame hangar and the axle end is 1 5/8" if it was redrilled.
Close to 10 years ago, I was inspired by nth degree as well. There are also 8 or 9, 3 link rear mid arm tj's running around I built. Having the upper ink in the tunnel allows it it to be set high without interference with the body when running outboard shocks that only need 2" of bumpstop extension, Unlike other 4link and panhard mid and long arm systems that require 5" of bumpstop extension to keep the arms off the tub without bending them.

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