PSC Hydro-Assist Installation Instructions (Using Black Magic Kit)

Step 20
Now it's time to bleed the system. Follow these instructions to properly bleed the system:
  1. The vehicle’s battery should always be disconnected before any modifications are made.
  2. Make sure all of the fittings in the power steering system are tight.
  3. Raise all steering tires off of the ground.
  4. Fill reservoir with power steering fluid (never use automatic transmission fluid). PSC recommends either Swepco 715 or a GM power steering fluid that they supply the part number for. Leave the cap off of the reservoir.
    (Fill level should be 1” below the top of the reservoir. On single ended cylinder applications this should be measured with the cylinder collapsed.)
  5. Cycle the steering from lock to lock three or four times.
  6. Check fluid level in reservoir. Refill as needed.
  7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until a consistent level in the reservoir is reached.
  8. Reconnect the battery. Replace the cap on the reservoir.
  9. Start the vehicle and let it run without any steering input for 30 seconds but be aware that if there is air in the system, there is a good chance you will smoke the pump. Do not start the engine until no air moves into the reservoir when the steering is turned lock to lock. You can under do it, you can't over do it.
  10. Turn off engine.
  11. Check and refill reservoir as needed, replacing cap when done.
  12. Start engine and cycle steering from lock to lock 10-15 times.
  13. Turn off the engine and let it stand for 10 minutes to allow air bubbles to work out of the system.
  14. Repeat steps 11-14 until there are no air bubbles visible in the reservoir.
  15. With the engine running, observe the fluid level in the reservoir. While looking in the reservoir,
    turn off the engine. The fluid level should not change.
  16. If the level does not change, check the system for leaks. If there are no leaks, test drive the
    vehicle. If the level does change start over at step 4.
:)
 
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Thanks for taking the time to pull this together. It is an incredible resource and now we see how it is supposed to be done!
 
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Thanks for taking the time to pull this together. It is an incredible resource and now we see how it is supposed to be done!
The diagram I made in the first post alone should be tremendously helpful as now people know how to route things. When I first got all the parts that was the most daunting thing, trying to figure out what goes where.
 
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The diagram I made in the first post alone should be tremendously helpful as now people know how to route things. When I first got all the parts that was the most daunting thing, trying to figure out what goes where.
Yes! I didn't even get Blaine's kit, which was a huge mistake. Next time I do one, it will be done using this as a guide!
 
We still need to come up with a very well defined bleeding procedure to protect these pumps. So far what we have found that works the best is cycle the steering lock to lock and keep filling the reservoir until it is about 1/2-3/4" over the top of the filter. Do not turn the steering wheel without watching the reservoir or it can overflow. Keep doing that until no more air comes back into reservoir.

Then turn the pulley slowly with a hex bit in an electric or air ratchet and watch for air. When the air stops, cycle the steering wheel lock to lock again.

It is very important that we don't send any air bubbles through the pump. Let it settle out, do the above some more. Keep after it until no more air comes back into the reservoir. At first start, only let it run for a few seconds and check for air. If you see any bubbles, let them settle out completely before you do it again. Keep doing the 2-3 second start and run until you can do it with no air at all in the reservoir. When you can finally do it, let it idle and cycle lock to lock again while still checking for air bubbles in reservoir.
 
We still need to come up with a very well defined bleeding procedure to protect these pumps. So far what we have found that works the best is cycle the steering lock to lock and keep filling the reservoir until it is about 1/2-3/4" over the top of the filter. Do not turn the steering wheel without watching the reservoir or it can overflow. Keep doing that until no more air comes back into reservoir.

Then turn the pulley slowly with a hex bit in an electric or air ratchet and watch for air. When the air stops, cycle the steering wheel lock to lock again.

It is very important that we don't send any air bubbles through the pump. Let it settle out, do the above some more. Keep after it until no more air comes back into the reservoir. At first start, only let it run for a few seconds and check for air. If you see any bubbles, let them settle out completely before you do it again. Keep doing the 2-3 second start and run until you can do it with no air at all in the reservoir. When you can finally do it, let it idle and cycle lock to lock again while still checking for air bubbles in reservoir.
Emphasis on this^. What we found worked really well, was when you get to the step where you need to start the Jeep, we would start it and immediately shut it off, then cycle the steering with the Jeep off until no bubbles again. Then start it and immediately shut it off. Cycle steering until no bubbles. Repeat until no bubbles at start up and let run a little longer. We found after each start/stop we would get some new bubbles working out while cycling the steering with engine off. The second we saw bubbles we would shut off the engine and cycle steering some more. It takes a while but our pump is silent.
 
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Again thanks for this. I adjusted my ram and mount today while I had it out. I incorrectly had my washers on the outside of the drag link mount. Also double checked to make sure my ram was correctly positioned and not bottoming out.
 
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I just finished this install. Thanks @Chris for the instructions and @mrblaine for putting this together. A few comments I took along the way.

-I didn't need to use any oetiker clamps nor where they provided in the kit. Blaine confirmed they weren't needed.

-Expect to trash those stupid well nuts holding the condenser in place so be prepared with two replacements (1/4"-20 thread size)

-My v-bar was too narrow for the clamp to hold but some 1/2 ID Preston heater hose was a perfect fit to take up the space.

-One of the bolts holes on the PSC pump does not extent all the way through unlike the factory pump. You will need to cut or replace the bolt.

-I didn't need to do any welding or grinding to complete my install. I'll probably weld it though when i switch to my HP axle.
 
I just finished this install. Thanks @Chris for the instructions and @mrblaine for putting this together. A few comments I took along the way.

-I didn't need to use any oetiker clamps nor where they provided in the kit. Blaine confirmed they weren't needed.
They are not a necessity, we use them to make sure we don't have an issue that we've never had.
-Expect to trash those stupid well nuts holding the condenser in place so be prepared with two replacements (1/4"-20 thread size)

-My v-bar was too narrow for the clamp to hold but some 1/2 ID Preston heater hose was a perfect fit to take up the space.
We run into those very rarely, but they are out there and I've no idea why Jeep decided to use a smaller diameter tube.
-One of the bolts holes on the PSC pump does not extent all the way through unlike the factory pump. You will need to cut or replace the bolt.
We have short metric flange bolts just for that.
-I didn't need to do any welding or grinding to complete my install. I'll probably weld it though when i switch to my HP axle.
I prefer that to be welded.
 
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Does anyone who has completed this install remember how much of the Swepco power steering fluid was needed? I can't find a local supplier and have to order it so I want to make sure I have enough on hand.
 
Does anyone who has completed this install remember how much of the Swepco power steering fluid was needed? I can't find a local supplier and have to order it so I want to make sure I have enough on hand.
I was recommended to buy 4 quarts. Can't recall how much I used but I know I have some left over.
 
I used a little under 3 quarts and that was after loosing a bunch of fluid due to a loose fitting. I mounted my reservoir on the fender and not the firewall to keep the hoses short.
 
Does anyone who has completed this install remember how much of the Swepco power steering fluid was needed? I can't find a local supplier and have to order it so I want to make sure I have enough on hand.
3 minimum and that leaves a partial for trail use. For that reason I recommend 4 to carry 1 unopened in the rig.
 
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Fantastic, thanks guys. I see they sell them in packs of 4 online so i'll go ahead and order a pack.
 
This step only applies to 03-06 TJs and involves installing the lower steering shaft from a 97-02 TJ in place of your factory steering shaft. While you can modify your 03-06 steering shaft to fit, I'm convinced it's not worth the effort when you account for the cost of a new 97-02 steering shaft.

I think Mopar is using the same part number for 2 different parts.

52078705AD

20220716_120538.jpg
 
Hmmm, now that is weird! Is that the upper steering shaft?

It's not off any TJ I've ever seen.

I purchased from RockAuto and the manufacture date is last month if that helps anyone figure out what's going on.

I'll try again at another store.
 
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