So I have been pretty busy getting alot of projects done on Sarah, and made some significant changes. In past month I have completed:
- Yukon WU-08 Dana 30 Hub Kit - 5.5 spacing
- Yukon WF-88 Super 8.8 Kit - 5.5 spacing
- Upgraded my 15" BMB kit to 16" rotors
- Raceline Monster RT232 17x8, 4.5 BS wheels
- BFG A/T 315/70/17 Tires
- Rebuild 241OR case
- Switch from 3" Currie springs to 4" Currie springs
- Modify rear tire carrier for 5.5 pattern and tools
Going to start with moving from 3" Currie springs to 4" Currie springs. After closely looking at my front uptravel and a conversation with the Wizard, it was best to toss the 3" for 4". Here I am just going to show the difference in the springs, which I found to be surprising.
Here are the front springs side by side. 3" Currie is at 20.75" and 4" Currie is at 22.25".
With the 3" springs I am at 2" of uptravel before it starts into the Currie bump stops.
Just at 3" of uptravel in the shocks.
Clearance to front fender flair.
Here are the rear springs side by side. The 3" Currie is at 15.75" and the 4" Currie is at 18".
With the 3" springs at the rear I am at 3" of uptravel before the Currie bump stops.
Just at 4.5" uptravel for rear shocks.
Clearance for rear fender flair.
Installing the 4" Currie springs up front resulted in 3.5" of uptravel,
Just at 4.5" of uptravel for shocks.
Clearance at front fender flair.
Installing the 4" Currie springs in rear resulted in 5.5" of uptravel,
Just at 6.5"uptravel for rear shocks.
Clearance at rear fender flair.
Here are the front springs side by side. 3" Currie is at 20.75" and 4" Currie is at 22.25".
With the 3" springs I am at 2" of uptravel before it starts into the Currie bump stops.
Just at 3" of uptravel in the shocks.
Clearance to front fender flair.
Here are the rear springs side by side. The 3" Currie is at 15.75" and the 4" Currie is at 18".
With the 3" springs at the rear I am at 3" of uptravel before the Currie bump stops.
Just at 4.5" uptravel for rear shocks.
Clearance for rear fender flair.
Installing the 4" Currie springs up front resulted in 3.5" of uptravel,
Just at 4.5" of uptravel for shocks.
Clearance at front fender flair.
Installing the 4" Currie springs in rear resulted in 5.5" of uptravel,
Just at 6.5"uptravel for rear shocks.
Clearance at rear fender flair.
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There are two hub kits available for the Dana 30 from Yukon, the WU-07 and WU-08. Both are pretty spendy, 07 being just less than $1000, and the 08 right at $1450. I chose the 08 feeling it was a bit more robust hub unit, with the 07 being very similar to old Bronco II hub units. I have no real world experience to verify the strength of either one, just personal preference. The second biggest difference it hub pattern, the 07 kit keeps the standard 5 x 4.5 pattern, and the 08 changes it to a 5 x 5.5 pattern. This bigger pattern was not a large issue for me, as I was also installing a Yukon Super 88 kit also, which lets you choose between a 4.5 or 5.5 pattern. This kit includes the stub shafts, 720 u-joints, but not the axle shafts. The stub shafts are a 4340 hardened, so I got some 4340, 27 spline axle shafts also.
There is a downfall in this, if you have a Black Magic Brake kit installed, you are going to end up with some rotors that are unusable, (The ones that come in the kit). I currently had the 15" kit installed, and one advantage to that kit is it accepts 15" or 16" rotors. I was going to 17" rims, makes perfect sense to upgrade to 16" rotors since I had to get new ones anyway. Blaine is able to take his rotors, wave his wand, and wolla!, a set of rotors that will work with either hub kit with his brake kit.
First you must get the kit, then send him the spindle, bearing hub, inner and outer races, inner and outer bearings. wheel studs. and inner spindle nut. He machines his rotors and makes a few other adjustments, makes some measurements, and sends back everything with his rotors. Once all of that is back, it is ready to assemble.
There are a few tools that you will need, and one I did not foresee needing and that was a shop press. You will need a press to get the races in if Blane did not do that for you and to install the wheel studs into the rotor/hub assembly. So I went to everyone's favorite high quality tool store, HF. I selected one of their top of the line shop presses, a 20 ton unit. Any smart person knows there are always coupons available, and I found one that gave me 30 or 40 bucks off, so I had less that $180 bucks in a shop press.
Second you will need a 4 lug socket for a Dana 44. I got mine at NAPA, worked great for this project. Also needed is a 36mm socket to get the unit bearing nut off, snap ring pliers, can of extreme pressure premium red grease, various tools and you should be ready to go.
I get OCD when assembling anything, and lay everything out on a table, organize it, and do a parts count before I dig into any project to ensure I have all the parts, and am familiar with assembly with everything. I do a 'dry run' to ensure fit, as soon everything is going to be smothered in grease.
First step is to assemble the stub shafts, u-joints, and axles for both sides. We have all done this, pretty simple to do. I then got the front end on stands, took wheels off, and began to take calipers off. I removed the 19mm bolts from the knuckle, and be careful, as the brake line is probably short and will want to secure the caliper and assemble to the control arm with zip ties to prevent damage to brake line.
Now it is time to disassemble the hub unit. Take out cotter pin, lock nut, and then 36mm nut. On the back side remove the three 19mm bolts holding the unit bearing. Remove the unit bearing from the knuckle. It might need some taps from a hammer to get it loose. Unit bearing is out, remove the axle shaft. With just the bare knuckle, we are ready for installation of new axles.
Before installing the axles, a few parts need to be installed. First the metal dust shield needs to be installed on outer axle shaft.
Then install v-seal (thick side towards yoke) on outer shaft. It should fit snug over the dust shield.
Then there is the plastic thrust washer, in the lower left of the above picture. The chamfered edge you see faces towards the inside of outer axle, so it fits flush.
Now it is time to install the axles. With the old ones removed, the new ones should slide right in.
The spindle bearing is now ready to install. First, there is a small seal that goes on back of spindle. Make sure seal is placed cup side is facing away from needle bearing.
Install the disk brake dust shield, the spindle spacer, and finally the spindle. Install 3 bolts and torque to 75 ft-lbs.
When Blaine had my hub and bearings, he was king enough to install the races into the hub. Normally this would be the next step, but that was already done. Once that is completed, the rotors, hub, and wheel studs need to be assembled. The wheel studs press through the back of rotor into the hub, and this press fit holds the rotor and hub assembly together. This is where the shop press is needed, for installing the races and studs. I had an ides the wheel studs would be tight fit, and they definitely were. There is no way these could be installed without a press, this is a very tight fit, and I could see the press flexing as I was driving everything together.
Now the rotor/hub assembly is ready for bearings. If you have gloves, I highly recommend them. There are different ways to pack bearings, some like a bearing packer, some people use their palm of their hand. I have always done it with my palm. I put a bunch on my palm, and push it in the bottom of the bearing until grease comes out the other side. I slathered the races, installed the bearing, and then drove in the rear hub seal in. There is a front and rear bearing, pay attention to which bearing goes where. Once you drive in the rear seal, the rear bearing is in.
If you do mess up, seals are readily available. The rear seal is a CR 22353, which can be found at NAPA stores. The rear bearing is a Timken LM 102949 and outer bearing is a Timken LM501349.
With the rear bearing and seal installed, it is time to slide the rotor/hub assembly onto the spindle. It is a tight fit, and be cautious of the rear seal. Once it is slid on, install the smaller outer bearing on inboard side of hub. Ensure the bearing is packed, and the inner race is coated before installing the bearing. The bearing should slide in easily and the rotor assembly should set level. I recommend to not be skimpy with the grease in this area. Now install larger spindle nut, and you will need the special 4 lug socket. Take note of the position of the pin on the spindle nut, it must face outward. Torque the spindle nut to 50 ft-lbs, and rotate the rotor/hub assembly while tightening. This is to seat the bearings. Then turn the nut counterclockwise 1/4 turn, and retorque to 15-20 ft-lbs. Install lock washer onto spindle nut. Ensure the pin from the spindle nut engages the hole in locking nut. Some adjustment may be needed. Install the smaller spindle nut, and torque to 125 to 150 ft-lbs.
Now it is time to assemble the locking hub. All of the components going in need a coating to grease on them. Starting with the hub, coat the inside with grease. Next, install the spring retainer, and flat end must face out.
Next install the coil spring. Verify it compresses easily and not interfere with anything.
Coat spacer with grease on all sides and install over outer axle.
Verify inner axle has coating of grease. Coat the coupler and driver with grease. Mesh the two together, and install in the hub. You will be pushing against the spring, and the hub may need rotation to get the assembly to slide in. With the assembly compressed, install the snap ring onto the outer axle.
Coat the cam spacer and retainer plate in grease. Install the cam spacer into retainer plate by aligning the ears with the notches in the plate. Install into the hub. Install the hub snap ring, Verify it is fully seated into the groove of the hub.
Test the operation of cam spacer by pushing it in and out. It should freely move. Now it is time to install the selector and bezel. Slide them together and align them to 'Lock'. Apply a light coat of grease on the back side of selector assembly. Slide assembly on hub, it should easily go on. Install the nylon washers on the 10-24 bolts. Install bolts and tighten to 22 in-lbs. Turn selector to 'Free' and back to 'Lock', verifying smooth operation and engagement of axle. Install brake caliper assembly and wheel. Ready to go!
There is a downfall in this, if you have a Black Magic Brake kit installed, you are going to end up with some rotors that are unusable, (The ones that come in the kit). I currently had the 15" kit installed, and one advantage to that kit is it accepts 15" or 16" rotors. I was going to 17" rims, makes perfect sense to upgrade to 16" rotors since I had to get new ones anyway. Blaine is able to take his rotors, wave his wand, and wolla!, a set of rotors that will work with either hub kit with his brake kit.
First you must get the kit, then send him the spindle, bearing hub, inner and outer races, inner and outer bearings. wheel studs. and inner spindle nut. He machines his rotors and makes a few other adjustments, makes some measurements, and sends back everything with his rotors. Once all of that is back, it is ready to assemble.
There are a few tools that you will need, and one I did not foresee needing and that was a shop press. You will need a press to get the races in if Blane did not do that for you and to install the wheel studs into the rotor/hub assembly. So I went to everyone's favorite high quality tool store, HF. I selected one of their top of the line shop presses, a 20 ton unit. Any smart person knows there are always coupons available, and I found one that gave me 30 or 40 bucks off, so I had less that $180 bucks in a shop press.
Second you will need a 4 lug socket for a Dana 44. I got mine at NAPA, worked great for this project. Also needed is a 36mm socket to get the unit bearing nut off, snap ring pliers, can of extreme pressure premium red grease, various tools and you should be ready to go.
I get OCD when assembling anything, and lay everything out on a table, organize it, and do a parts count before I dig into any project to ensure I have all the parts, and am familiar with assembly with everything. I do a 'dry run' to ensure fit, as soon everything is going to be smothered in grease.
First step is to assemble the stub shafts, u-joints, and axles for both sides. We have all done this, pretty simple to do. I then got the front end on stands, took wheels off, and began to take calipers off. I removed the 19mm bolts from the knuckle, and be careful, as the brake line is probably short and will want to secure the caliper and assemble to the control arm with zip ties to prevent damage to brake line.
Now it is time to disassemble the hub unit. Take out cotter pin, lock nut, and then 36mm nut. On the back side remove the three 19mm bolts holding the unit bearing. Remove the unit bearing from the knuckle. It might need some taps from a hammer to get it loose. Unit bearing is out, remove the axle shaft. With just the bare knuckle, we are ready for installation of new axles.
Before installing the axles, a few parts need to be installed. First the metal dust shield needs to be installed on outer axle shaft.
Then install v-seal (thick side towards yoke) on outer shaft. It should fit snug over the dust shield.
Then there is the plastic thrust washer, in the lower left of the above picture. The chamfered edge you see faces towards the inside of outer axle, so it fits flush.
Now it is time to install the axles. With the old ones removed, the new ones should slide right in.
The spindle bearing is now ready to install. First, there is a small seal that goes on back of spindle. Make sure seal is placed cup side is facing away from needle bearing.
Install the disk brake dust shield, the spindle spacer, and finally the spindle. Install 3 bolts and torque to 75 ft-lbs.
When Blaine had my hub and bearings, he was king enough to install the races into the hub. Normally this would be the next step, but that was already done. Once that is completed, the rotors, hub, and wheel studs need to be assembled. The wheel studs press through the back of rotor into the hub, and this press fit holds the rotor and hub assembly together. This is where the shop press is needed, for installing the races and studs. I had an ides the wheel studs would be tight fit, and they definitely were. There is no way these could be installed without a press, this is a very tight fit, and I could see the press flexing as I was driving everything together.
Now the rotor/hub assembly is ready for bearings. If you have gloves, I highly recommend them. There are different ways to pack bearings, some like a bearing packer, some people use their palm of their hand. I have always done it with my palm. I put a bunch on my palm, and push it in the bottom of the bearing until grease comes out the other side. I slathered the races, installed the bearing, and then drove in the rear hub seal in. There is a front and rear bearing, pay attention to which bearing goes where. Once you drive in the rear seal, the rear bearing is in.
If you do mess up, seals are readily available. The rear seal is a CR 22353, which can be found at NAPA stores. The rear bearing is a Timken LM 102949 and outer bearing is a Timken LM501349.
With the rear bearing and seal installed, it is time to slide the rotor/hub assembly onto the spindle. It is a tight fit, and be cautious of the rear seal. Once it is slid on, install the smaller outer bearing on inboard side of hub. Ensure the bearing is packed, and the inner race is coated before installing the bearing. The bearing should slide in easily and the rotor assembly should set level. I recommend to not be skimpy with the grease in this area. Now install larger spindle nut, and you will need the special 4 lug socket. Take note of the position of the pin on the spindle nut, it must face outward. Torque the spindle nut to 50 ft-lbs, and rotate the rotor/hub assembly while tightening. This is to seat the bearings. Then turn the nut counterclockwise 1/4 turn, and retorque to 15-20 ft-lbs. Install lock washer onto spindle nut. Ensure the pin from the spindle nut engages the hole in locking nut. Some adjustment may be needed. Install the smaller spindle nut, and torque to 125 to 150 ft-lbs.
Now it is time to assemble the locking hub. All of the components going in need a coating to grease on them. Starting with the hub, coat the inside with grease. Next, install the spring retainer, and flat end must face out.
Next install the coil spring. Verify it compresses easily and not interfere with anything.
Coat spacer with grease on all sides and install over outer axle.
Verify inner axle has coating of grease. Coat the coupler and driver with grease. Mesh the two together, and install in the hub. You will be pushing against the spring, and the hub may need rotation to get the assembly to slide in. With the assembly compressed, install the snap ring onto the outer axle.
Coat the cam spacer and retainer plate in grease. Install the cam spacer into retainer plate by aligning the ears with the notches in the plate. Install into the hub. Install the hub snap ring, Verify it is fully seated into the groove of the hub.
Test the operation of cam spacer by pushing it in and out. It should freely move. Now it is time to install the selector and bezel. Slide them together and align them to 'Lock'. Apply a light coat of grease on the back side of selector assembly. Slide assembly on hub, it should easily go on. Install the nylon washers on the 10-24 bolts. Install bolts and tighten to 22 in-lbs. Turn selector to 'Free' and back to 'Lock', verifying smooth operation and engagement of axle. Install brake caliper assembly and wheel. Ready to go!
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To match the work on the front, it was time the 8.8 got an upgrade. When I built it originally, I installed the Artec truss, Eaton locker, and Revolution 4.88 gears. I used the stock axles as at the time they were adequate. With the LR4 swap I was a bit concerned. With the pattern change in the front, and the need for chromoly axles, the Yukon Super 88 Kit fit the bill. This kit will allow you to eliminate the c-clips and upgrades the axles to a 4340 chomoly, and are drilled for 5 x 4.5 or 5 x 5.5 pattern.
Installation is pretty basic, no special tools are needed, except one thing. You will need a shop press and I just happen to purchase one for the hub kit.
First, get the rig up on stands, remove wheels, rear calipers, and slide the rotors off.
Now it is time to take off cover and drain fluid to access the c-clips. Drain your fluid or remove cover, which ever works for your setup. Slide axles in, and pull out the clips. Once clips are removed, your axles should slide right out.
With axles out time to take off the backing plate. Remove the 4 bolts and place backing plate to the side. I secured mine to the rear control arm.
Now there should be just the end of the axle housing exposed. This part is the trickiest part of the conversion as you must cut the axle housing. There is the axle tube, a small shoulder, and the flange. The end of the axle must be cut off at the shoulder, not flush with the flange. The cut must be even and square also, so take your time with doing this. Stuff a couple of rags into the axle housing to prevent debris going down into the housing. I did not have a slide hammer to remove the bearing in the end of the housing, so I had to cut through the housing and bearing. I used a sawzall, and did eat a few blades.
Here I have cut through the axle flange and bearing, flush with the shoulder. Closely you can see half of the axle bearing race is still in the housing. Since I did not have a slide hammer, I had to dig it out.
Once you get the bearing race out, deburr the axle housing. Pull the rags out from the housing. Use some clean rags and thoroughly clean the housing until rags come out clean. Apply some silicone to the back side of bearing seats. Install the bearing seats into the housing with flat side up. Use 3/8 bolts and slide them through the back. Install spacer nuts and thread on the 3/8 locking nuts. Tighten the nuts in a cross pattern to seat the bearing to the housing. Remove the nuts and bolts from housing.
Install the backing plate/dust shield assembly over the 4 bolts.
Now it is time to assemble the axles. They come predrilled for 5 x 4.5 or 5 x 5.5. I am using the 5 x 5.5. Make sure all threads and axle is free from debris. Thread the 5 studs into the pattern for your project. Torque to 90 ft-lbs.
Currently my rotors are drilled at the 5 x 4.5 pattern. I am switching to a 5 x 5.5 pattern, so I had to drill my rotors to the 5.5 pattern. Carefully using the axle as a template, I marked the holes. Used a punch to mark drill location. The drilled holes to 9/16". They were easy to drill, and worked perfect.
Slide on the retainer plate, spacer, bearing seal, bearing, and bearing retainer in this order. This must be correct, as this is where we use the press, and once its on, there is no going back. Make sure it is correct!
Now it is time to put it in the press. Press unit bearing is seated with axle. There is alot of pressure to get it to go, the press was moving just a bit.
Install the axle in the housing. Long axle in drivers side, short in passenger side. Once the axles are seated into the new installed flange, thread on the 4 lock nuts. This is tricky, as the only way to get the nuts on are through the small hole in the axle flange. It was frustrating for me, but I got them. Torque nuts to 40 ft-lbs.
Install the disk and calipers. Install caliper bolts and torque. Complete both sides and you are ready for wheels!
Once wheels are on, do not forget to install the differential cover and fill it up with oil. You are ready to go!
Installation is pretty basic, no special tools are needed, except one thing. You will need a shop press and I just happen to purchase one for the hub kit.
First, get the rig up on stands, remove wheels, rear calipers, and slide the rotors off.
Now it is time to take off cover and drain fluid to access the c-clips. Drain your fluid or remove cover, which ever works for your setup. Slide axles in, and pull out the clips. Once clips are removed, your axles should slide right out.
With axles out time to take off the backing plate. Remove the 4 bolts and place backing plate to the side. I secured mine to the rear control arm.
Now there should be just the end of the axle housing exposed. This part is the trickiest part of the conversion as you must cut the axle housing. There is the axle tube, a small shoulder, and the flange. The end of the axle must be cut off at the shoulder, not flush with the flange. The cut must be even and square also, so take your time with doing this. Stuff a couple of rags into the axle housing to prevent debris going down into the housing. I did not have a slide hammer to remove the bearing in the end of the housing, so I had to cut through the housing and bearing. I used a sawzall, and did eat a few blades.
Here I have cut through the axle flange and bearing, flush with the shoulder. Closely you can see half of the axle bearing race is still in the housing. Since I did not have a slide hammer, I had to dig it out.
Once you get the bearing race out, deburr the axle housing. Pull the rags out from the housing. Use some clean rags and thoroughly clean the housing until rags come out clean. Apply some silicone to the back side of bearing seats. Install the bearing seats into the housing with flat side up. Use 3/8 bolts and slide them through the back. Install spacer nuts and thread on the 3/8 locking nuts. Tighten the nuts in a cross pattern to seat the bearing to the housing. Remove the nuts and bolts from housing.
Install the backing plate/dust shield assembly over the 4 bolts.
Now it is time to assemble the axles. They come predrilled for 5 x 4.5 or 5 x 5.5. I am using the 5 x 5.5. Make sure all threads and axle is free from debris. Thread the 5 studs into the pattern for your project. Torque to 90 ft-lbs.
Currently my rotors are drilled at the 5 x 4.5 pattern. I am switching to a 5 x 5.5 pattern, so I had to drill my rotors to the 5.5 pattern. Carefully using the axle as a template, I marked the holes. Used a punch to mark drill location. The drilled holes to 9/16". They were easy to drill, and worked perfect.
Slide on the retainer plate, spacer, bearing seal, bearing, and bearing retainer in this order. This must be correct, as this is where we use the press, and once its on, there is no going back. Make sure it is correct!
Now it is time to put it in the press. Press unit bearing is seated with axle. There is alot of pressure to get it to go, the press was moving just a bit.
Install the axle in the housing. Long axle in drivers side, short in passenger side. Once the axles are seated into the new installed flange, thread on the 4 lock nuts. This is tricky, as the only way to get the nuts on are through the small hole in the axle flange. It was frustrating for me, but I got them. Torque nuts to 40 ft-lbs.
Install the disk and calipers. Install caliper bolts and torque. Complete both sides and you are ready for wheels!
Once wheels are on, do not forget to install the differential cover and fill it up with oil. You are ready to go!
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Rebuilding NP241 or 241OR Transfer Case
Pre-work:
I have had some noise from what I thought was my rear axle, but actually was coming form my x-fer case. I posted a thread here on the issue. After running the Jeep on stands, there was alot of noise from the case. Not what I really wanted to do, but had to be done. I ordered a bearing and seal kit from Allstate Gear - NP241J. Here I will break down the process of overhauling a 241 x-fer case.
Items Needed:
Disassembly:
Once the case is out and on the bench, time to drain the oil. Remove the lower plug at rear of case, it is a 10mm allen. When I removed mine, hardly any oil cam out?! At one time i thought I checked it, but I digress.
Next come off the yokes. You will need a deep, thin wall 32mm to get the nuts off. The yokes should slide right off with the nuts removed.
I then started removing all of the 10mm bolts. I started with the rear flange cover and seal. Then I removed the 18 from the case halves. There is one 13mm on the top of the case. Take note of where it came from. The rear flange seal is pretty easy to get off, there are three tabs, just slowly pry with a screwdriver, and should pop off.
With the 18 bolts removed it is time to split the cases. Take your time and try not to damage the machined case halves getting them apart. The rear case half should slide away from the front case half half. In the rear case should also be the oil pump. DO NOT remove the bolts for the oil pump. This pump is aligned at the factory to the bearing race, and any movement will change alignment, rendering it useless.
This is how your case should look when removing the rear cover. (I forgot to take pictures, this is a reassembly picture) Remove the spring for the mode selector and set it to the side. Take a close look in the lower left of the case and note where the magnet is. It could be in either side of the case. Remove it from the case and set it aside. The front and rear sprocket assembly should be ready to pull out. Lift both sprockets out evenly from the case. They are heavy. Once lifted out the sprockets and chain can be separated. Also note when lifting out the sprocket, the mode fork will also come out. Try not to drop it and not loose any of nylon shims in the fork.
Here is what your sprocket assembly should look like when removed. Also is the mode fork in its position. There is no bearings or seals in this assembly, so all that is needed is a visual inspection of the mode fork and the three nylon bushings.
When I lifted out the sprocket assembly, I was greeted with a burned range fork. I did get this case used, and suspect that this happened with the previous owner. There were several flags I suspect this -
At this point you can remove the fork rod and flop the case around with the front facing you. Time to remove the remaining 12, 10mm bolts for the front side of the case to remove the planetary assembly.
When removing the assembly be careful as the ring gear may also slide out with the planetary set. If you have not done so already, remove the range gear from the planetary assembly.
This is the planetary flipped upside down and the ring gear is still on the planetary set. Also the range gear is resting in the planetary set.
The Planetary set is held in with a snap ring under the front seal. Dig out the seal on the input shaft, and there is a snap ring behind it. You will need a set of inside snap ring pliers to get the snap ring out. Pair I used is below which I got at O'reillys. With the snap ring out, the planetary should slid out from the bearing housing. On inside is the input bearing held in by a snap ring. The planetary is heavy, set it aside.
Below on the face of the planetary is a thrust washer. Remove old washer and install new thrust washer.
Rebuilding:
With the bearing housing upside down allows access to the input bearing. There is a snap ring holding the bearing in. Compress the snap ring and the bearing should slide out. Insert new BD-50-8 bearing along with snap ring. Seat bearing until snap ring expands in grove.
With new bearing installed it is time to reinstall the planetary set. Install planetary set and install snap ring to hold set into housing. Install the input seal, marked T-10. Carefully drive seal in evenly until flush with housing.
It is time to replace the output bearing for front driveshaft. With the main front housing on bench, remove the old seal from front output and using a socket and hammer, tap out the old bearing. Install the new #6207 bearing and drive in a new F4282 seal.
The rear housing has two bearings, a output bearing and a needle bearing set for the front output. The rear output replacement is the same as the front. Carefully drive out the old bearing, and side a new #6207 bearing in. The needle bearing is in a dead end, so it will take some creativity on your part to get it out. I first removed the inner cage and bearings, laving only the outer race. I then cut notches in the race to fit some washers inside to 'grab' the race and pull the bearing out. I setup a puller shown below to get the bearing out. Once out, I drove the new SCE 2416 needle bearing in.
New needle bearing:
There is just one seal left to remove and install, and that is on the rear output cover. Remove old seal and drive in the last F4284 seal.
Pre-work:
I have had some noise from what I thought was my rear axle, but actually was coming form my x-fer case. I posted a thread here on the issue. After running the Jeep on stands, there was alot of noise from the case. Not what I really wanted to do, but had to be done. I ordered a bearing and seal kit from Allstate Gear - NP241J. Here I will break down the process of overhauling a 241 x-fer case.
Items Needed:
- NP241 Bearing Kit - Allstate Gear
- Mopar ATF +4 Fluid - 2 Quarts
- Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker #51813
- 32mm Deep Impact Socket
- Snap Ring Pliers
- 10mm, 13mm socket and ratchet
- 10mm Allen wrench or socket
- 3/8" and 1/2" torque wrench
- Two 6207 bearings
- One BD-50-8 bearing
- One SCE2416 needle bearing
- One SCE2110 needle bearing
- Two F4284 seals
- One T-10 seal
- One thrust washer
- One C-572 seal
- Misc. washers and O-rings
Disassembly:
Once the case is out and on the bench, time to drain the oil. Remove the lower plug at rear of case, it is a 10mm allen. When I removed mine, hardly any oil cam out?! At one time i thought I checked it, but I digress.
Next come off the yokes. You will need a deep, thin wall 32mm to get the nuts off. The yokes should slide right off with the nuts removed.
I then started removing all of the 10mm bolts. I started with the rear flange cover and seal. Then I removed the 18 from the case halves. There is one 13mm on the top of the case. Take note of where it came from. The rear flange seal is pretty easy to get off, there are three tabs, just slowly pry with a screwdriver, and should pop off.
With the 18 bolts removed it is time to split the cases. Take your time and try not to damage the machined case halves getting them apart. The rear case half should slide away from the front case half half. In the rear case should also be the oil pump. DO NOT remove the bolts for the oil pump. This pump is aligned at the factory to the bearing race, and any movement will change alignment, rendering it useless.
This is how your case should look when removing the rear cover. (I forgot to take pictures, this is a reassembly picture) Remove the spring for the mode selector and set it to the side. Take a close look in the lower left of the case and note where the magnet is. It could be in either side of the case. Remove it from the case and set it aside. The front and rear sprocket assembly should be ready to pull out. Lift both sprockets out evenly from the case. They are heavy. Once lifted out the sprockets and chain can be separated. Also note when lifting out the sprocket, the mode fork will also come out. Try not to drop it and not loose any of nylon shims in the fork.
Here is what your sprocket assembly should look like when removed. Also is the mode fork in its position. There is no bearings or seals in this assembly, so all that is needed is a visual inspection of the mode fork and the three nylon bushings.
When I lifted out the sprocket assembly, I was greeted with a burned range fork. I did get this case used, and suspect that this happened with the previous owner. There were several flags I suspect this -
- It was split to install a Teraflex 2 - low kit. They used black RTV instead of an anaerobic sealant for the case. If you look at the rear seal cover shows all of the excess RTV on the inside. I am assuming that it could have blocked the drain back somewhat.
- There was more excess sealant on the split cases. The screen for the oil pump was half blocked, the magnet was covered also. If they were this careless, I am sure they were careless about the adjustment of their shifter upon re-installation, hence the burned range fork.
At this point you can remove the fork rod and flop the case around with the front facing you. Time to remove the remaining 12, 10mm bolts for the front side of the case to remove the planetary assembly.
When removing the assembly be careful as the ring gear may also slide out with the planetary set. If you have not done so already, remove the range gear from the planetary assembly.
This is the planetary flipped upside down and the ring gear is still on the planetary set. Also the range gear is resting in the planetary set.
The Planetary set is held in with a snap ring under the front seal. Dig out the seal on the input shaft, and there is a snap ring behind it. You will need a set of inside snap ring pliers to get the snap ring out. Pair I used is below which I got at O'reillys. With the snap ring out, the planetary should slid out from the bearing housing. On inside is the input bearing held in by a snap ring. The planetary is heavy, set it aside.
Below on the face of the planetary is a thrust washer. Remove old washer and install new thrust washer.
Rebuilding:
With the bearing housing upside down allows access to the input bearing. There is a snap ring holding the bearing in. Compress the snap ring and the bearing should slide out. Insert new BD-50-8 bearing along with snap ring. Seat bearing until snap ring expands in grove.
With new bearing installed it is time to reinstall the planetary set. Install planetary set and install snap ring to hold set into housing. Install the input seal, marked T-10. Carefully drive seal in evenly until flush with housing.
It is time to replace the output bearing for front driveshaft. With the main front housing on bench, remove the old seal from front output and using a socket and hammer, tap out the old bearing. Install the new #6207 bearing and drive in a new F4282 seal.
The rear housing has two bearings, a output bearing and a needle bearing set for the front output. The rear output replacement is the same as the front. Carefully drive out the old bearing, and side a new #6207 bearing in. The needle bearing is in a dead end, so it will take some creativity on your part to get it out. I first removed the inner cage and bearings, laving only the outer race. I then cut notches in the race to fit some washers inside to 'grab' the race and pull the bearing out. I setup a puller shown below to get the bearing out. Once out, I drove the new SCE 2416 needle bearing in.
New needle bearing:
There is just one seal left to remove and install, and that is on the rear output cover. Remove old seal and drive in the last F4284 seal.
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Rebuilding 241 or 241OR Continued
Reassembly:
Now all of the seals and bearings are installed and replaced, it is time to reassemble the transfer case.
Start by having the planetary set facing down, slide the ring gear into the planetary gears. This is going to take some finesse, so take your time. It should easily slide over the four gears.
Place a small bead of anaerobic sealant on the mating surface of the planetary cover. Do not use an excessive amount, as the extra will end up inside the case. No wider than 3/16" bead. Slide front transfer case half on the planetary assembly. To get cover to fully seat, the square tabs on the ring gear slide into tabs on the case. When seated in place, carefully flip the case and front planetary assembly. Install the 12 - 8mm bolts and torque to 15-20 ft-lb. When bolts are torqued, flip case around again so input shaft is resting on the bench.
Install the range gear into the planetary assembly. Slide the range fork and slide rod into the transfer case. The range fork needs to slide in the range gear and also the fork pin needs to slide into the range selector. The selector may need to be rotated to get assembly to fit together. Be sure the nylon bumpers on the fork stay in place and are fully seated.
Assemble the chain, front and rear drive sprockets on the bench. Slide mode fork into the mode gear and slide assembly into the transfer case. The mode fork must slide on to shaft first, then the front and rear sprocket assembly's will side in. Rotate front and rear sprockets to get all components to side into place. Ensure mode fork stays engaged to mode gear and ensure three nylon bumpers in fork are seated properly. Verify mode selector pin is seated properly into selector.
Insert spring on range/mode shaft. Clean magnet and slide into case.
Apply another bead of anaerobic sealant on the case mating surface. Remember, not a bead larger than 3/16" is needed.
Align oil pump with main shaft and align shift rail with bore in rear case. Then install rear case onto the front case. Be sure oil pickup tube is in the correct position during assembly. Verify that shift rail, and case alignment dowels (3) are seated before installing any bolts. Case could be cracked if shaft rail or dowels are misaligned. Install 8mm bolts and the odd bolt into case. Carefully hand tighten all bolts. When case halves are fully mated and bolts hand tight, torque bolts to 15-20 ft-lbs.
Rear seal cover now needs to be installed. There is only one position this can be installed, as there is an oil drain back for the seal and bearing, and these must be properly aligned. Apply another bead of anaerobic sealant to mating surface of cover, and install. Take note of pictures on proper alignment of cover.
Oil drain back on transfer case -
Oil drain back on cover -
With cover on, install remaining 6 - 8mm bolts and torque to 15-20 ft-lbs.
Install front and rear yokes. Torque yoke bolts to 90-130 ft-lbs.
Before filling with oil, verify operation of case by spinning input shaft and selecting through the ranges and modes. It should shift easily and smooth. If all modes and ranges work properly, it is time to fill it with oil.
Remove upper plug at rear of case and pour in two quarts of ATF +4 fluid. Reinstall plug.
You are done! Just reinstall in your rig, and enjoy your rebuilt case.
Reassembly:
Now all of the seals and bearings are installed and replaced, it is time to reassemble the transfer case.
Start by having the planetary set facing down, slide the ring gear into the planetary gears. This is going to take some finesse, so take your time. It should easily slide over the four gears.
Place a small bead of anaerobic sealant on the mating surface of the planetary cover. Do not use an excessive amount, as the extra will end up inside the case. No wider than 3/16" bead. Slide front transfer case half on the planetary assembly. To get cover to fully seat, the square tabs on the ring gear slide into tabs on the case. When seated in place, carefully flip the case and front planetary assembly. Install the 12 - 8mm bolts and torque to 15-20 ft-lb. When bolts are torqued, flip case around again so input shaft is resting on the bench.
Install the range gear into the planetary assembly. Slide the range fork and slide rod into the transfer case. The range fork needs to slide in the range gear and also the fork pin needs to slide into the range selector. The selector may need to be rotated to get assembly to fit together. Be sure the nylon bumpers on the fork stay in place and are fully seated.
Assemble the chain, front and rear drive sprockets on the bench. Slide mode fork into the mode gear and slide assembly into the transfer case. The mode fork must slide on to shaft first, then the front and rear sprocket assembly's will side in. Rotate front and rear sprockets to get all components to side into place. Ensure mode fork stays engaged to mode gear and ensure three nylon bumpers in fork are seated properly. Verify mode selector pin is seated properly into selector.
Insert spring on range/mode shaft. Clean magnet and slide into case.
Apply another bead of anaerobic sealant on the case mating surface. Remember, not a bead larger than 3/16" is needed.
Align oil pump with main shaft and align shift rail with bore in rear case. Then install rear case onto the front case. Be sure oil pickup tube is in the correct position during assembly. Verify that shift rail, and case alignment dowels (3) are seated before installing any bolts. Case could be cracked if shaft rail or dowels are misaligned. Install 8mm bolts and the odd bolt into case. Carefully hand tighten all bolts. When case halves are fully mated and bolts hand tight, torque bolts to 15-20 ft-lbs.
Rear seal cover now needs to be installed. There is only one position this can be installed, as there is an oil drain back for the seal and bearing, and these must be properly aligned. Apply another bead of anaerobic sealant to mating surface of cover, and install. Take note of pictures on proper alignment of cover.
Oil drain back on transfer case -
Oil drain back on cover -
With cover on, install remaining 6 - 8mm bolts and torque to 15-20 ft-lbs.
Install front and rear yokes. Torque yoke bolts to 90-130 ft-lbs.
Before filling with oil, verify operation of case by spinning input shaft and selecting through the ranges and modes. It should shift easily and smooth. If all modes and ranges work properly, it is time to fill it with oil.
Remove upper plug at rear of case and pour in two quarts of ATF +4 fluid. Reinstall plug.
You are done! Just reinstall in your rig, and enjoy your rebuilt case.
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Since I changed my hub size, I needed to make mods to my rear carrier. Switching from 4.5 to 5.5 pattern I still needed a way to carry my tire. I had some 1/4" plate, so I drilled pattern for 3, 1/2" x 20 bolts. Welded bolts to plate, and welded the plate to the carrier. I cut the old plate off. While I was at it I mad a mount for my Hi-Lift Jack I will never use, and fabricated mounts for a shovel, splitting axe, and pick mattock. Prepping for arrival of Tallahassee and Covid apocalypse. 
I was a cheap ass and for the utility tool mounts I went with fence couplers from Lowes. Then just got some 3/8 wing nuts and drilled through my tire mount. Seems to work pretty good.
I was a cheap ass and for the utility tool mounts I went with fence couplers from Lowes. Then just got some 3/8 wing nuts and drilled through my tire mount. Seems to work pretty good.
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One item I did not check when installing the Dave's motor mounts was clearance for the front control arms. I 'assumed' it would be fine but my fathers's words rang into my ears as he has told me time and time again - "NEVER assume anything!" Well, that caught up with me as the front control arms are hitting the back side of the Dave's motor mounts.
Below you can see where the arm has been contacting the mount.
Here is where the mount is bashing my arm. Ouch!
So I cut the lower portions of the mounts out and pattern them to slide up and fill the hole. Below is the passenger side.
Here is the drivers side completed.
Below you can see where the arm has been contacting the mount.
Here is where the mount is bashing my arm. Ouch!
So I cut the lower portions of the mounts out and pattern them to slide up and fill the hole. Below is the passenger side.
Here is the drivers side completed.
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Sent an email off to Dave's yesterday with pictures. Waiting to hear back from them on the motor mounts. Keep posted on this. In meantime, couple shots from Rimrock Lake last week.
There has been some talk lately on crawl ratio's, and I never have actually ran the numbers on my combination. Seems for a daily driver a good number is around 50, and more extreme it is around 70 to 75. I went to Grim Jeeper and ran my combination. It is useful as you can plug in two combinations side by side, and see the difference. With the NV3550, 4:1, 4.88 gears, and 35" tires it came to 78:1 for 1st gear, 45:1 for 2nd gear, very low numbers. I did the same combination except I changed to a 231 case, and it came to 53:1 for 1st gear, and 30:1 for second.
It use to be thought that 100:1 was the goal to shoot for. I'd say your crawl ratio is just fine. I have 5.13 gears and ran 35" tires to start with.
Some of the HARDEST but BEST trails are in that area above Rimrock Lake. Pucker Ridge trail, Short & Dirty, Gut Pile, Blue Slide & a bunch of others I can't remember the names of.
Some of the HARDEST but BEST trails are in that area above Rimrock Lake. Pucker Ridge trail, Short & Dirty, Gut Pile, Blue Slide & a bunch of others I can't remember the names of.
Hi Mike, I followed this link from our local forum. Such an awesome build. I would of seen it sooner, but I sold the TJ to another club member and have not been on this site for awhile.
I really hope to see your Jeep in person sometime in the near future.
Right now I am in the process of a mild build on the new SS Gladiator Rubicon. Too big to fit on our really tight trails, but will on some.
I am missing my TJ a little. I may have to get another sometime.
Hoping to get out to Juniper Dunes at the first significant snow fall.
I really hope to see your Jeep in person sometime in the near future.
Right now I am in the process of a mild build on the new SS Gladiator Rubicon. Too big to fit on our really tight trails, but will on some.
I am missing my TJ a little. I may have to get another sometime.
Hoping to get out to Juniper Dunes at the first significant snow fall.
@TJDaveX, thank you! Ready to get out and enjoy it instead of being under the hood! Juniper sounds great, even snow wheeling! I did see your goodbye post,
, it looked like you had a well setup TJ, very similar to mine. I think you may have withdraws if you see mine and congrats on the Gladiator, it looks like you are enjoying it. If they had a 2 door -
Last Saturday took a trip to Spokane Valley to get a final tune on Sarah. It had a general tune from Tilden, but starting, idling, was a little off, and noticed the long term fuel trims were always at +14. Short and long term fuel trims should be at 0, at any throttle position. I called locally here, to Kaizenspeed, it would be $750 for a tune, a 6 week wait, and they run it on a dyno. I am not needed peak hp to be perfect, and do not need a dyno run for a TJ with a truck motor, so I went online and searched. I found Stromberger Performance, based on reviews he did alot of LS work. Gave him a call, said bring it up whenever, and a tune would be $200. Went there, and his shop is in old residential part of Spokane Valley. Went inside, there was a blown, nitrus, 454 Nova, tubbed, full cage, and couple other high performance GM products. We start talking Mopar stuff, he says, I have something to show you, walk over to his garage, and inside is a '58 Plymouth 2 door - red - yes - Christine! It was a basket-casewhen he got it, and now looks brand new, and for a motor, not a small block 318 like they usually come with, a little hemi, a 354 with dual quads! This was the best day I had in a long time! Wish I could have gotten pictures, but it was stuffed in a single car garage and there was no room around it.
Anyone familiar with tuning a LS, you must have HPTuners, Then if you want to tune a new vehicle, it costs a 'credit', and a cresit is ususally $100. You can do as many different tunes to that one vehicle, but initially it costs $100. Stromberger downloaded what I had, we went through and eliminated alot of 'nanny' stuff, changed timing and fuel curves, and idle. We went out and did some test runs on the road, fine tuned it, and it runs even better now. Any one on the east side here with LS, give this guy a call, just seeing his stuff is worth it.
Went there, and his shop is in old residential part of Spokane Valley. Went inside, there was a blown, nitrus, 454 Nova, tubbed, full cage, and couple other high performance GM products. We start talking Mopar stuff, he says, I have something to show you, walk over to his garage, and inside is a '58 Plymouth 2 door - red - yes - Christine! It was a basket-casewhen he got it, and now looks brand new, and for a motor, not a small block 318 like they usually come with, a little hemi, a 354 with dual quads! This was the best day I had in a long time! Wish I could have gotten pictures, but it was stuffed in a single car garage and there was no room around it. Anyone familiar with tuning a LS, you must have HPTuners, Then if you want to tune a new vehicle, it costs a 'credit', and a cresit is ususally $100. You can do as many different tunes to that one vehicle, but initially it costs $100. Stromberger downloaded what I had, we went through and eliminated alot of 'nanny' stuff, changed timing and fuel curves, and idle. We went out and did some test runs on the road, fine tuned it, and it runs even better now.
Any one on the east side here with LS, give this guy a call, just seeing his stuff is worth it.Also this week added a few creature comforts to Sarah, added seat warmers, manual throttle control, and added a security box under the front seat.
Dorman 628-420 Seat Warmers
Manual throttle control
Bestop 4264101 Storage Lockbox. Wanted a way to store my wallet or something else with a little bit more security, and I liked the Bestop better than the Tuffy as it seems to fit under the seat better, further back than the Tuffy. Now this box is for 'non-rumble' seats, and I have the rumble seats. They say they will not work, and they are right, it will not bolt in. I felt there was a way to make it work with rumble seat, and it does. It takes some careful cutting and massaging of the frame, but it will fit and retain function of rumble seat!
Dorman 628-420 Seat Warmers
Manual throttle control
Bestop 4264101 Storage Lockbox. Wanted a way to store my wallet or something else with a little bit more security, and I liked the Bestop better than the Tuffy as it seems to fit under the seat better, further back than the Tuffy. Now this box is for 'non-rumble' seats, and I have the rumble seats. They say they will not work, and they are right, it will not bolt in. I felt there was a way to make it work with rumble seat, and it does. It takes some careful cutting and massaging of the frame, but it will fit and retain function of rumble seat!
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Nice job. I have the smaller version - and it’s pretty small. I wish I would have known I could fit the bigger one with a little work. Did you do a write up on how you made it fit?
I should have taken more pictures. I seperated the seat from frame and sat frame over the box to make cuts to brackets. Most of cuts were on left side brackets, if you look close, it is very close. It is not hard to do, just marking where to cut, fit, cut, fit, etc. Nothing else special is needed. This same box will fit passenger side, will have to find a new home for the jack. Plan to do same thing to passenger side also, have 2 lock boxes.
I don't have the folding seat on the drivers side so I will be looking into these once I get some other things done. Since I lost my center console to do the GenRight console I need a place to store all the stuff I had in my center console. I'd forgotten about these so thanks for helping me spend more money. If I put one on both sides it'll give me enough storage. I don't have a glove box either so these will work.