Finally got everything painted. To to start the install
Savvy Under Armor / Skid Plate Install Write-Up
- Thread starter Rook
- Start date
Installed the Outer Cs last night was hoping I put them in correct. This photo shows the diagonal cut goes to the rear
Seeing as you recently installed the skid, do you happen to know if the mounts are the same for an auto and a manual? thanks
Just discovered my tranny mount is shot. This completely replaces stock mount right? So I could put the $130 for Mopar tranny mount toward tummy tuck?
If I already have dc rear driveshaft will this change be enough that will need to have it retubed?
2005 LJ manual np231 if that changes anything
If I already have dc rear driveshaft will this change be enough that will need to have it retubed?
2005 LJ manual np231 if that changes anything
I believe the tranny mount bolts directly to the mount. So yeah. If you get this you won’t need a separate mount. A replacement tranny mount is pretty cheap tho.
A TT will raise the skid and change the length from yoke to yoke, demanding a new or lengthened driveshaft
Did anyone use countersunk bolts for mounting their skid? Also was considering welding the trans cross member where it angles up to the frame or would that cause more vibration?
@jjvw did both, I did the mounted crossmember instead of the C's. There shouldn't be any increased vibration than mounting to the Cs, however, since the mount on the crossmember is two bushings.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rocky-mountain-billy-goat-build.14166/page-50#post-927273
Thank you for the reply, that cross member seemed a little flexy when test fitting
It isn't when everything is bolted together. Mounting the crossmember to frame welded tabs doesn't change anything about how flexible it is or isn't. It's just something you need to do when raising the body mounts.
I think you would need a rear. Stock front should be ok.
You should always plan on the worst case scenario.
Agreed, definitely plan on the rear. The front is likely (if not now, soon). Many of us cleaned up some vibes and slop replacing the stock front DS with a quality one like Tom Woods builds (you can even ask the resident expert himself @Shawn at Tom Wood's ). Both of mine are Woody's, no regrets at all.
Yep, had a Woody SYE & rear dl on my 97. Loved it, top quality parts.
Take the existing setup and simply unbolt the transmission mount and jack the transmission up until it hits the tub. If your driveshafts are maxed out, you will need new ones, or to get your existing ones lengthened. Takes about 15-20 minutes to do this test. You will most likely need double cardan driveshafts front and rear, so if you have the factory shaft, assume you will need a new one.
Also, consider converting to the cable shifter for the transfer case if you haven't already. That will eliminate one headache.
Already installed the cable shifter. I’ve ordered parts, and I’m planning to have a local shop make me a rear driveline.
Ok, BL and MML are in. Installing the crossmember. Is it always necessary to clearance the tub over the np241 in a LJ? I seem to have good clearance… 