Setting up links for variable height suspension
- Thread starter Wildman
- Start date
I'm not trying to advocate for the MC bushings. But from what you're saying is that they wear out quickly because the CAs on our rigs are always in a state of misalignment? I was under the impression that the CAs should be under no misalignment at ride height because we set the CA length at ride height. So do they either fail because there is always significant misalignment at, or the ride height is miscalculated?
I need to replace my worn out stock CAs, so I've been researching the topic. I'm pretty much sold on Savvy CAs. But I've been looking into the MC arms out of curiosity since I see lots of people say they fail or are weak, but with no proof.
I need to replace my worn out stock CAs, so I've been researching the topic. I'm pretty much sold on Savvy CAs. But I've been looking into the MC arms out of curiosity since I see lots of people say they fail or are weak, but with no proof.
OP
Okay the Savvy mid arm kit came today.... Thanks FedEx..... Was like Christmas today at my house.
To answer the one question: the lower control arm bolts are 9/16th in size.
So now comes the question of how to setup the brackets on aftermarket axles.
My rear axle is a TeraFlex CRD 60 and here is what the Nth Degree bracket looks like.
Do I shed the Nth bracket and just use the plate on the top of the axle with the 4 bolts or do I keep the Nth bracket to strengthen the whole thing?
Front axle want be as hard. With the Rubicon Express bracket kit it is all most the same thing as the truss Savvy supplies. Can't wait to get started on this part but there are a few other things I need to do before I can install the Savvy kit. Follow along in my build thread if you are interested.
To answer the one question: the lower control arm bolts are 9/16th in size.
So now comes the question of how to setup the brackets on aftermarket axles.
My rear axle is a TeraFlex CRD 60 and here is what the Nth Degree bracket looks like.
Do I shed the Nth bracket and just use the plate on the top of the axle with the 4 bolts or do I keep the Nth bracket to strengthen the whole thing?
Front axle want be as hard. With the Rubicon Express bracket kit it is all most the same thing as the truss Savvy supplies. Can't wait to get started on this part but there are a few other things I need to do before I can install the Savvy kit. Follow along in my build thread if you are interested.
the rusty's or clayton should have enough stiffness to keep the JJ from sitting offset at rest, or return things to center.
the durometer of the MC material is the biggest mistake in their joints.
it takes between 7-15# of force to move the MC joint to max. any hold or force above this cannot be fought or returned back to center.
JJ's are a little stiff out of the box, and an MC joint don't have the balls to pull 1 back to center.
that thing is more pinion guard than truss. is there room for 2 joints there?
will it set the joints in the same place the Savvy kit will, or you start messing with where that IC ends up.
has anyone tried to put a JJ guts in an MC casing?
the durometer of the MC material is the biggest mistake in their joints.
it takes between 7-15# of force to move the MC joint to max. any hold or force above this cannot be fought or returned back to center.
JJ's are a little stiff out of the box, and an MC joint don't have the balls to pull 1 back to center.
that thing is more pinion guard than truss. is there room for 2 joints there?
will it set the joints in the same place the Savvy kit will, or you start messing with where that IC ends up.
has anyone tried to put a JJ guts in an MC casing?
OP
I'm going with the Clayton Off-Road joints.
Yes I agree it isn't really a truss which is why I called it a bracket instead of a truss. I'll have to see if there is enough room for the two mounts for the upper CA at this point. The top of the axle is pretty much flat when it's under the Jeep so the question comes down to what is the separation numbers for the upper & lower mounts? Or I think that is what I need to know first.
joint separation is key but so is placement. so locating the LCA brackets at the OE locations would be 1st on my list then be sure it holds the kits dimensions throughout.
if your not gonna use the rear truss you either gotta mock it up to have the right placement or put in a call to get that info.
if your not gonna use the rear truss you either gotta mock it up to have the right placement or put in a call to get that info.
OP
I don't have a Savvy rear truss. Becasue I have aftermarket axles I'm guessing they don't offer a truss for my axle.
i know toximus had issue fitting a truss and had to make some changes. it's in his build, but not sure where.
all i can say is the placements are critical to the geometry the sys is built to provide. any deviation is just that, a deviation from what the results could/should be.
i'm sure Savvy has the info to fit a 60.
all i can say is the placements are critical to the geometry the sys is built to provide. any deviation is just that, a deviation from what the results could/should be.
i'm sure Savvy has the info to fit a 60.
OP
From what I remember from reading his thread it was with the front axle that he had issues and had to redo the truss. Yes I agree I was just asking if there were others who had used aftermarket axles and for advice. I have a email into Savvy asking for the info also.
The stinger needs to go. The brackets at the ends are in the way of tying in the truss to the tubes. The mounts for the control arms need to sit on that plate for height. Build a version of the front truss that picks up those 4 bolts and then make it wide enough to set a pair of upper mounts on before the bends go down to the tubes and weld right where the u-bolts are. Set the lowers as close to stock as you can. It won't hurt to try the relocated holes as a test and trim later.
IIRC he used the rear truss that came with his axle, but had an issue with the height of the joints and underbelly clearance.
i was not here when that happened or i would have questioned the same . whats that do to the sys designed geometry.
i was not here when that happened or i would have questioned the same . whats that do to the sys designed geometry.
OP
OP
Again I may be mistaken in what I remember reading but the trusses that he has came from Currie not from Savvy but as always I could be wrong.
Rear truss is Currie, front is a flat plate with a single mount on it, neither from Savvy.
The Currie truss is too tall by 1" to work well so we cut them down which has the added benefit of enough flat area to get both mounts on top without having to cope the outer face of the mount down the angled truss leg.
OP
Is there a amount of separation I should be shooting for between the upper and lower CA mounts? I'm going out to measure my axle right now.
I have a email into TeraFlex to see if I can get a truss from them for the CRD60. I don't know what might have changed between their current axle and mine which is 15-16 years old.
If not then something like this to start with and then modify as needed?
https://www.tmrcustoms.com/collections/axle-truss-kits/products/dana-60-simple-rear-truss
I have a email into TeraFlex to see if I can get a truss from them for the CRD60. I don't know what might have changed between their current axle and mine which is 15-16 years old.
If not then something like this to start with and then modify as needed?
https://www.tmrcustoms.com/collections/axle-truss-kits/products/dana-60-simple-rear-truss
oh, i so feel the quandary your in right now. having to deviate some of the OE locations that you don't have/never had. i went through it too.
it's suggested you have the platform you need to start from the top down. ditch that hardware, find you a nice piece of plate you can fix to those existing holes and have room to set the brackets flat. and build down to an OE LCA location.
countersinking the bolts might be a good idea (tapered flat heads). so you have no vertical profiles to avoid.
this version would have no supporting bends. meaning the flat plate needs to take the force. my next ? might be, what is the minimum or recommended thickness for construction like this?
it's suggested you have the platform you need to start from the top down. ditch that hardware, find you a nice piece of plate you can fix to those existing holes and have room to set the brackets flat. and build down to an OE LCA location.
countersinking the bolts might be a good idea (tapered flat heads). so you have no vertical profiles to avoid.
this version would have no supporting bends. meaning the flat plate needs to take the force. my next ? might be, what is the minimum or recommended thickness for construction like this?
OP
Yes I agree that I'll want to tie into the 4 bolt holes on the top. Might be overkill but why not use them if I have them. From the rough measurements I just took that truss from TMR looks to be workable.
One thing I noticed while under the Jeep is that I'm going to have to either relocate or lose my air tank.
Just all part of the process. I'll wait and see if Teraflex replies to my email about their truss.
One thing I noticed while under the Jeep is that I'm going to have to either relocate or lose my air tank.
Just all part of the process. I'll wait and see if Teraflex replies to my email about their truss.
I wouldn't depend on the 4 bolts, they need to add to the legs down to the tubes that I said to weld in place after the u-bolts for the stinger are out of the way.