With the stock springs and 1.75" BB
Front was 13 1/4 and with the OME is 14 3/4 (may have settled a bit now)
Rear was 9 3/8 and with the OME is 11 3/8
So I concluded that my stock springs were sagging. So much enjoying the OME lift.
So, you want to do a tummy tuck (TT)
- Thread starter JMT
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With the stock springs and 1.75" BB
Front was 13 1/4 and with the OME is 14 3/4 (may have settled a bit now)
Rear was 9 3/8 and with the OME is 11 3/8
So I concluded that my stock springs were sagging. So much enjoying the OME lift.
@glwood
Barnes 4x4 has some various skids, some without TT.
http://www.barnes4wd.com/Jeep-TJ--LJ-Skid-Plates_c_145.html
Barnes 4x4 has some various skids, some without TT.
http://www.barnes4wd.com/Jeep-TJ--LJ-Skid-Plates_c_145.html
I'm thinking of doing the same....But,If you remove those 4 nuts, isn't the skid plate still going to be attached at the frame rails? And if it is, where would be the best spot to raise the drivetrain? Or does the the whole skid need to be removed in order to raise the drivetrain? And on a side note...Ive read, and heard that that the TT will cause "Minor vibes" at idle. How annoying are those vibes? or is it a non-issue?
Since you have an auto, I'd say get a block of wood as long as your trany pan is and jack it up from there. I could be wrong here, but I have a manual trans, and don't have an oil pan in the way. Once you start jacking the drivetrain up into the tunnel you'll start to see how things can get tight up there. Only vibes at idle I've heard of is when you change the factory trany mount to something else, like a lo pro mount or something.
im trying to understand when you think you need to rotate the pinion shaft toward the output shaft of the transfer case?? (and you may already know this) , but untill you install the SYE and CV drive shaft, you do not need to rotate the pinion to point to the output shaft. In stock form and stock driveshaft, the angle of the output shaft of the transfer case and the angle of the pinion should be equal and parallel ( not pointing at each other).
Well, I kinda thought that, but wasn't sure, so I appreciate the response. I've only had my Jeep for 4 1/2 months, and I've only been trying to figure out how cars work for the same! LOL. So I've got a lot to learn and everything here is a great help...I'm supposing I'll put on the SYE and CV and skid plate all at the same time, because when I raise the TC I'm going to get driveline vibes like crazy if I don't.
Full disclosure, I have not done it but have looked into it a great deal. A TT takes some work and going fully flat takes a great deal of modification and fabrication. There would be no way to do a tuck on a stock driveshaft. It changes the angles drastically. Your at 2.5" of lift so adding only a 2" tuck the driveshaft angle is seeing 4.5" of lift. Not possible on a stock set up. Going flat would push the case up so that the ds sees nearly 7" of lift.
Which is what makes this mod so desirable and questionable at the same time! @Chris, I think has said this is not as major a mod as some think. There's no cutting involved. I would love to have that clearance. I see trucks and, excuse me while I curse, JK/U with flat or near flat. Makes me jealous!
No cutting involved. If you have all the parts you need, it's pretty straight forward.
One reason I am envious of the JKs is because they come from the factory with a "tummy tuck" so to speak. I with our TJs had come that way. The transfer case hangs so damn low on my Rubicon, it's insane! Tummy tuck is next on my list.
One reason I am envious of the JKs is because they come from the factory with a "tummy tuck" so to speak. I with our TJs had come that way. The transfer case hangs so damn low on my Rubicon, it's insane! Tummy tuck is next on my list.
Those of us with a 5 speed and the NP231 TC have a little more wiggle room. The 241 is a beast of a TC.
Sure is...I've been moving it around my garage for two weeks...Damn thing is HEAVY!
I have a Terraflex TT on my TJ now. The skid is. It flush with the frame. It has about a 1 1/2 drop. I'll take pictures when I get home if you need. I did the 1" motor mount lift, SYE and CV driveshaft. I have adjustable control arms and was able to rotate the rear axel enough to not have any driveline vibrations.
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Oooooh, I like, your getting 18 3/4" clearance at the skid! Right now I'm at 12 1/2 with the stock skid and a 3/4" TC drop. What suspension lift do you have and what size tires are you running.
Edit: how is your TC mounted to the skid? I see the slots but I don't see any nuts and bolts.
Edit: how is your TC mounted to the skid? I see the slots but I don't see any nuts and bolts.
The tc is bolted, they are sunk in just enough to be clear of damage. Maybe an inch or less.
I am running 35s in a rubicon express super flex 4" kit. With my added weight, it really lifted 3 and 1/4 when measured. I have a lot of add on steel with corner guards, bumpers, racks, winch, and sliders.
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I am running 35s in a rubicon express super flex 4" kit. With my added weight, it really lifted 3 and 1/4 when measured. I have a lot of add on steel with corner guards, bumpers, racks, winch, and sliders.
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Just making sure, but you have no BL? One pic looks like you might, but you didn't list it. I'm thinking of trying what you did, just MML, SYE and CV.
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