xxdabroxx
TJ Addict
I think you would be better off going with parts designed for the TJ, but thats just my opinion. I'm sure people have made them work, I don't know what is involved though.
Tire/wheel advice for a noob?
- Thread starter LCL-Dead
- Start date
Sounds to me like you've got worn out suspension components. Do you know the last time the suspension was done? It is also possible that you have "light duty" springs (for lack of a better term). Often times companies like OME make different sets of springs. Light duty, heavy duty, etc., based on how much weight you'll think you'll be carrying, so that they don't sag.
If you're running the stock shocks and springs, well then that's your issue. Those things aren't meant to handle the extra weight of a heavy bumper, winch, etc. They'll sag big time with any serious extra weight on them.
Personally though, if it was me, I would just wait until you have the money to go with a decent lift (i.e. the OME 2.5 lift) that will take care of the shocks and springs all at once).
I can speak to that. JK front springs aren't even as tall as TJ front springs. You'll lose height. I tried that with JKU Rubicon front springs. No good. The rear springs, on the other hand...
Front springs from left to right, JKU spring, TJ X spring, OME JK spring:
Rear springs from left to right, TJ X spring, JKU spring
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OP
I had a feeling that the bumper/winch had something to do with it.
Picked up the XJ shocks from the local guy last night and will probably install them after work tomorrow after testing them against the current shocks to see which set is working better. Watched a bunch of videos on JK -> TJ spring swaps and decided that wasn't the route for me either as I don't want to lift that high and am not sure of all the extra parts I'd need to do it right.
Just gonna keep saving up for the OME kit you keep linking, Chris. It's now bookmarked.
Picked up the XJ shocks from the local guy last night and will probably install them after work tomorrow after testing them against the current shocks to see which set is working better. Watched a bunch of videos on JK -> TJ spring swaps and decided that wasn't the route for me either as I don't want to lift that high and am not sure of all the extra parts I'd need to do it right.
Just gonna keep saving up for the OME kit you keep linking, Chris. It's now bookmarked.
OP
So I crawled under her today to get a better look at the components.
There is maybe 3" of travel available before the bump stops in my springs bottom out and I can almost get them to bottom out just by reaching up from the ground and pulling down on the bumper. Gonna see about ordering that OME kit this weekend if possible so that, next weekend, I can work on getting it installed. I also think that the sag is what's contributing to the front axle being off center. For the life of me I could not find any indication of damage or new welds on the frame or the axle where the trackbar connects. Nothing is loose but the drop in ride height would explain why it's pushed over to the right a bit.
@Chris, going by your beginners guide to lifting post, given that I have an 06 Rubicon I shouldn't need a SYE, right? Just a new adjustable trackbar.
There is maybe 3" of travel available before the bump stops in my springs bottom out and I can almost get them to bottom out just by reaching up from the ground and pulling down on the bumper. Gonna see about ordering that OME kit this weekend if possible so that, next weekend, I can work on getting it installed. I also think that the sag is what's contributing to the front axle being off center. For the life of me I could not find any indication of damage or new welds on the frame or the axle where the trackbar connects. Nothing is loose but the drop in ride height would explain why it's pushed over to the right a bit.
@Chris, going by your beginners guide to lifting post, given that I have an 06 Rubicon I shouldn't need a SYE, right? Just a new adjustable trackbar.
Factor in your jounce bumpers as part of your suspension travel. Those bumpers will compress all the way to the steel cup they sit in.
Your sway bar is this:
See if your sway bar links (in my picture it's the things that say JKS on them, however yours are more than likely stock sway bar links) are disconnected from their connection point next to your rotors.
To see if it's your shocks causing this issue, push down on the front of your Jeep and see if your Jeep bounces back up and down.
If your Jeep just slowly rises back to its normal grade, then it's not your shocks and they are working properly.
And, the rear is the only part that will be lifted 3". The front won't lift at all from the JK springs.
Me personally, I would just get an OME 2.5" lift. I have no experience with it, but literally everyone on this forum swears by how nice it is; eventually I'm going to swap out my BDS lift for that OME lift.
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OP
Checked. Connected. Grabbed them and gave them a shake too, no movement.
Pushing down on the front end: She just kind of springs back up but it's hard to tell if there's much of a bouncing motion due to the jeep rolling a bit forward and backwards as well. I'm going to buy the OME kit. At this point it's just a matter of putting together the last bit of funding. In all reality it's probably a combination of shocks and springs just being worn after 10 years, no replacements and 110k miles, a good portion of them done with the bumper/winch mounted.
Pushing down on the front end: She just kind of springs back up but it's hard to tell if there's much of a bouncing motion due to the jeep rolling a bit forward and backwards as well. I'm going to buy the OME kit. At this point it's just a matter of putting together the last bit of funding. In all reality it's probably a combination of shocks and springs just being worn after 10 years, no replacements and 110k miles, a good portion of them done with the bumper/winch mounted.
When your Jeep is sitting at a light, turn your wheel side to side and feel how much "play" is in it. That's how much wear is in all of your steering components. Could possibly be why your Jeep drives like a boat?
My Jeep's wheel doesn't have a lot of play in it, yet it drives like a boat (minus the 33" tires and 2" lift) because it's 10 feet long. Our Jeeps are much more easily affected by differences in the pavement and by the wind!
However, with yours being completely stock, and me not being an expert, i'd hope that the experts, I.E., @mrblaine, @Jerry Bransford, or @Chris will chime in!
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Springs are what support rate, shocks have nothing to do with supporting weight.
Nope. One benefit of the Rubicon is that you don't need an SYE at all, just adjustable track bars.
Put an OME lift on there with some adjustable track bars, and that's all you'll need. You shouldn't even need a CV driveshaft!
Mostly cheap, and very easy!
OP
There's actually no play in the steering wheel.
Thanks Chris. Looks like I'll be able to order that kit in the next week.
OP
Can't go wrong with JKS, Currie or Metal Cloak. I am going with JKS when I do my OME lift.
I know Rough Country doesn't generally get much love around here, but I opted to use their adjustable rear track bar in lieu of drilling out the rear track bar bracket for the OME relocation bracket included in the kit. Gave me adjustability, and is much more stout than the stock track bar:
http://www.morris4x4center.com/rear-forged-adjustable-track-bar-0-6in-rc-1075.html
http://www.morris4x4center.com/rear-forged-adjustable-track-bar-0-6in-rc-1075.html
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Roger Descoteaux
New Member
I did as well...and @ double the weight of the stock track bar, I'm satisfied it's an acceptable upgrade...$150 vs $400 for a steel rod with some threading made the choice pretty easy for me...
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My thoughts exactly. A big plus is it can be adjusted without unbolting either end.
Roger Descoteaux
New Member
My thoughts exactly. A big plus is it can be adjusted without unbolting either end.
No drilling either...I wouldn't compare it to the preferred brands, it's deff not a Currie product, but for the $$ it will get you where you need to be with a few bucks left to put into other areas of your rig...if a guy has the need or the $$, buy the best, if not, the RC will work...
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