Well for anyone else interested in the clocks they are made by Lackner. Number on the back indicates June of 1956. Both work when plugged in (and buzz), however the neon does not light up. After some research I think the transformer may be bad. From what I was told by her dad, both of these came out of their dealership (original). I am hesitant to remove the glass as the printing can be easily damaged and rub off. Should I enjoy as is or try and open one up to see if it's easily repairable?

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Well for anyone else interested in the clocks they are made by Lackner. Number on the back indicates June of 1956. Both work when plugged in (and buzz), however the neon does not light up. After some research I think the transformer may be bad. From what I was told by her dad, both of these came out of their dealership (original). I am hesitant to remove the glass as the printing can be easily damaged and rub off. Should I enjoy as is or try and open one up to see if it's easily repairable?

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Can you bring them along on Saturday? I have a little bit of experience with neon.
 
More hpd30 work. Metalcloak required 3" to be cut off the old clevite bushing mount. We opted to put in 4 spot welds, as well cut slots down the front of the bracket to run more beads. One thing I worry about is the MC is solid and heavy. This bushing mount now has a lot of top weight making the 1/8 steel welded to the housing the weak spot

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Then came perches. Setting them level is easy. My hurdle now is where to place the lower control arm skid in relation to the perch. This will definitely change my control arm length and placement. I also need to figure out what I will be doing with my front shock mounts (poly mounts, hacked stock, something else...). The artec perches eliminated the bar pin and include the new lower shock location. However, if I want to use all 12" of my future shock travel I am going to need figure out tower placement when the time comes....

I am fairly certain now I will have to run poly towers up front and hack the new perches to accept the poly lower mounts.

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The new sleeve for the duroflex bushing was also pressed in.

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I have a lot more work to do still.
 
Lackner clock update!

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The neon in both clocks are still good. Both needed new transformers. I found a company near my office who used to deal with neon and he had an old transformer he gave me. He knew a lot and schooled me on the basics of neon.

I still need another one for the other clock, but I'm am beyond excited. Her parents are going to be estatic when they see these lit up for the first time in 30 years
 
Someone decided to rummage thru my glove box last night. House cameras didnt catch anything as I was parked right outside the field of view:rolleyes: Didnt find anything of value, as I dont keep anything in there but my shackle, and winch controller. Door was unlocked.
 
Great build, just read through the whole thing. Love the Jeep and what you've got planned for it. I also like the color-matched front flares, looks good! (thats too bad about the paint not wanting to stick)
 
Great build, just read through the whole thing. Love the Jeep and what you've got planned for it. I also like the color-matched front flares, looks good! (thats too bad about the paint not wanting to stick)

Thanks!

I think I am going to pull the fenders again this year and repaint them black. Not 100% sure though. Just the passenger side seems to be flaking in various spots. Driver side seems to have taken well minus a few rock chips.
 
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Thanks!

I think I am going to pull the fenders again this year and repaint them black. Not 100% sure though. Just the passenger side seems to be flaking in various spots. Driver side seems to have taken well minus a few rock chips.
Yeah, when I get new fenders I am debating spraying them as you did, or TRYING to color-match with powdercoat (it would be close but not exact)... They just look a lot nicer color-matched IMO. Black definitely looks more rugged too though, so you cant really go wrong either way. (especially on a red TJ :) )
 
Found a couple short videos on my SD card from Spring Creek earlier this year.

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Second transformer came in. Second Lackner clock is now fully functional. This one took a bit more work, I had to solder the transformer wires to the neon bulb, thankfully there was enough left make the connection.

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I attempted to tackle two ujoint repalcements yesterday afternoon. Ive only ever used a press before but this time I went the hammer/socket route. Good lord. What should have taken an hour has taken me 6 and I am not even done. I started with the passenger and got one cap off, flipped it over to pound the other one back thru and it kept catching the ears of the shaft and shaving it, even though it was straight thru the ears and not crooked. I called jjvw to come help and even he struggled with it. We finally got it out by taking a flap disc to the cap, and a cutting disc to the cross on the opposite side. The new joint went in easily (albeit, still some big whacks with a hammer). Moved on to the driver side and it too is doing the same. We got two caps off (one broke completely), but now the two opposite sides are not budging. Heat, vise, a hammer, a bigger F'n hammer, nothing. Luckily I had a spare to put in and drive to work today. My next step is to place in into a press and see what happens.

On another note--jjvw let me drive his TJ yesterday. All I can say is I made the wrong shock choice on my jeep (Bilstiens). He has rancho's up front and tuned foxes in the rear. What would jolt me in my seat I couldnt feel in his. Easily glide over speed bumps whereas I get tossed from my seat. I noticed more body roll with his mid-arm setup, but it was a very controlled roll, nothing I would even remotely consider dangerous or scary. And finally, the 03+ seats sit much lower than my 97.

Can you guys come out to rapid to give me a hand for this same problem?
 
Can you guys come out to rapid to give me a hand for this same problem?

At this point I am tempted to get whole new shafts.

WIth yours I would cut out the cross with a cut off wheel, you may have to remove the guard or buy a larger wheel. I ran the old caps back thru and it seemed to clean up the ears. I also carefully cleaned up bigger burrs with a dremel.
 
At this point I am tempted to get whole new shafts.

WIth yours I would cut out the cross with a cut off wheel, you may have to remove the guard or buy a larger wheel. I ran the old caps back thru and it seemed to clean up the ears. I also carefully cleaned up bigger burrs with a dremel.

Im at this point as well. I fought with it for 5 hrs yesterday. I even brought it inside when the temp outside got down to sub-zero. Im going to see if I try to put the old cap back on one of the sides and push it through if it will work. There is a crown replacement for both for around 140.00. This front end job is getting expensive lol.
 
Im at this point as well. I fought with it for 5 hrs yesterday. I even brought it inside when the temp outside got down to sub-zero. Im going to see if I try to put the old cap back on one of the sides and push it through if it will work. There is a crown replacement for both for around 140.00. This front end job is getting expensive lol.
Are they OEM Joints? They might be locked in place with plastic. They inject plastic into a groove in the cap to hold them from the factory. You'll play hell trying to get them out without getting that plastic out of there. You can heat the ears up with a propane torch and it will expand the plastic and force it out the injection hole. Take a little bit, but eventually you'll get enough of it out and the caps will come out like they are supposed to.
 
Are they OEM Joints? They might be locked in place with plastic. They inject plastic into a groove in the cap to hold them from the factory. You'll play hell trying to get them out without getting that plastic out of there. You can heat the ears up with a propane torch and it will expand the plastic and force it out the injection hole. Take a little bit, but eventually you'll get enough of it out and the caps will come out like they are supposed to.

I dont think so but there are pictures of the joint and such on one of my posts. They have a blue seal on them.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/axle-shaft-and-spline-nightmare.18303/#post-296995