How to align a Savvy mid-arm?

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Can anyone share a source where I can learn how to align a Savvy Midarm (3 link front, triangulated 4 link rear)?

Or if there isn’t, could someone share tips/tricks for aligning? Consider me a complete newb to this, only have ever centered front track bar and set toe.
 
Can anyone share a source where I can learn how to align a Savvy Midarm (3 link front, triangulated 4 link rear)?

Or if there isn’t, could someone share tips/tricks for aligning? Consider me a complete newb to this, only have ever centered front track bar and set toe.

@B00mb00m was the one who helped me with this question.

You're going to set the distance of the rear axle from the back bumper and then center the axle under the Jeep by adjusting the upper arms. You'll turn the left upper to move it right and the right upper to move it left. So it's a dance of adjusting the upper & lower arms to set your pinion angle plus centering the axle left and right. And I'm not 100% sure I've got mine adjusted 100% yet.

Edit: And I'm sure I'm missing parts of this too.
 
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@B00mb00m was the one who helped me with this question.

You're going to set the distance of the rear axle from the back bumper and then center the axle under the Jeep by adjusting the upper arms. You'll turn the left upper to move it right and the right upper to move it left. So it's a dance of adjusting the upper & lower arms to set your pinion angle plus centering the axle left and right. And I'm not 100% sure I've got mine adjusted 100% yet.

Edit: And I'm sure I'm missing parts of this too.

How does one determine the “front to back” position of the axles? Is it based on centering the tires in the wheel wells at full bump?
 
How does one determine the “front to back” position of the axles? Is it based on centering the tires in the wheel wells at full bump?

I can't answer that. I set mine to where my tires were where I wanted them and then squared the axle by measuring from the center skid bolts and the rear of the frame.

For the front I just squared it to the center skid bolts.
 
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How does one determine the “front to back” position of the axles? Is it based on centering the tires in the wheel wells at full bump?

That's what I do. Springs out, jack the axle up to bump stop contact and center them. Some fine adjustment from there may be called for, such as mitigating track bar contact.

The link I posted above this goes into all the details.
 
Can anyone share a source where I can learn how to align a Savvy Midarm (3 link front, triangulated 4 link rear)?

Or if there isn’t, could someone share tips/tricks for aligning? Consider me a complete newb to this, only have ever centered front track bar and set toe.

The process is the same as stock shorts arms, except the rear axle is centered using the upper arms.
 
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How does one determine the “front to back” position of the axles? Is it based on centering the tires in the wheel wells at full bump?

Just like with short arms, you want the bumps to touch at full shock compression and you don't want the axle to crash into the gas tank or steering thingies at full shock compression.

One thing you will notice (because on a SWB TJ the mid arms are not compatible with the stock center skid leading you to a raised belly) is that the raised pinion after the 4" spring lift will result in the rear bumps not lining up well. This is fixed by relocating the upper spring seats. Which means you maybe ought to be doing a shock outboard before or in conjunction with the mid arm.
 
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The process is the same as stock shorts arms, except the rear axle is centered using the upper arms.

It may not be clear to our visually challenged folks what that actually means. Once the pinion angle is set along with the fore and aft position of the rear axle, then it is centered by making one upper arm longer and one upper arm shorter by the exact same number of turns the opposite direction of each other. That will shift the axle over without changing the angles or location fore and aft.
 
It may not be clear to our visually challenged folks what that actually means. Once the pinion angle is set along with the fore and aft position of the rear axle, then it is centered by making one upper arm longer and one upper arm shorter by the exact same number of turns the opposite direction of each other. That will shift the axle over without changing the angles or location fore and aft.

I'm pretty sure I have an actual smile on my face when I'm laying under the rig, twisting both UCAs at the same time watching the frame scoot to the side over the axle, wondering if single adjustable buyers have any idea what they're missing.
 
The process is the same as stock shorts arms, except the rear axle is centered using the upper arms.

Thank you, that helps. Now onto figuring out the process for aligning short arms 😅

Can I ask, how is the rear centered without a TB? I’ve heard of a gunsight method?
 
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Can I ask, how is the rear centered without a TB? I’ve heard of a gunsight method?

The same way a triangle keeps the axle from shifting side to side. Keep reading.

The gunsight method is just a way to align centers. It doesn't care about the existence of a track bar.
 
One thing you will notice (because on a SWB TJ the mid arms are not compatible with the stock center skid leading you to a raised belly) is that the raised pinion after the 4" spring lift will result in the rear bumps not lining up well. This is fixed by relocating the upper spring seats. Which means you maybe ought to be doing a shock outboard before or in conjunction with the mid arm.

That’s what we get for doing things backwards 😜

Though I hope my bumps will be okay given the LJ.. will found out when cycling
 
The same way a triangle keeps the axle from shifting side to side. Keep reading.

The gunsight method is just a way to align centers. It doesn't care about the existence of a track bar.

I should have rephrased, what’s a good way to find the center?
 
It may not be clear to our visually challenged folks what that actually means. Once the pinion angle is set along with the fore and aft position of the rear axle, then it is centered by making one upper arm longer and one upper arm shorter by the exact same number of turns the opposite direction of each other. That will shift the axle over without changing the angles or location fore and aft.

Thank you, this really helped visualize it.
 
Another question to the midarm folks, if y’all don’t mind..

Does a brake caliper flip significantly affect the hard line routing? Away from my Jeep right now or I would’ve looked myself.

Since I’m redoing the rear hard lines, wondering whether to go for the flip kit now or not.