The Official Tummy Tuck FAQ Thread
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
Has anyone considered using Flanged Button Head Screws? The flange is 26mm wide. I'm thinking these might be more resistant to rocks sliding down the frame.
What do we do when the surrounding bolt head smears through the hex head?
This was my solution for my UCF aluminum skid. Not as thick as a bolt head and slides over rocks easily. I still check them frequently.
Did you buy those strips or cut them to size?
Love links to the UMHW and bolts.
-Mac
I made them from a 6 foot piece of .25" strapping. I cant remember if they are 1.25 or 1.50 wide .I would have to measure them to be sure. I made a couple sets for guys here in AZ a couple years ago.
UHMW stands for Ultra-High Molecular Weight Polyethylene. It's a type of polyethylene, which is a thermoplastic polymer. The "ultra-high molecular weight" refers to the exceptionally long polymer chains in UHMW, which gives it its unique properties.
-Mac
Here are the bolts and counter sink I used. I have no info on your UMHW.
https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Screws-Countersunk-Bolts-Stainless/dp/B0DSKHM9PH/ref=sr_1_6?crid=Z2W13A2TRTLR&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Vo4TmED1j_NxqC7Y9kc4iDsjD9_kdX0BA-_t8kfKnYY4Gksywit7F_Sm7mgi085svTh0lc4KOg-Fegfr2cb3RBmE4VkL1hQ9eGxyKasMvmyHsOM3DqsHM4ak43yLauOviIzj5fqBsOKi_RcRV1VknpyQJ8DYhb0fN8v-h-n4fodIyQRhui_jZfX1TpSxwB5sgq0yIWhSa65lTRaX0gND-bxsEITlde0ty2zzoSxLg5A.xQwCyFHtIu2DdoTaDPoFg8Gc614P8UA94pTB6WXcGfw&dib_tag=se&keywords=1/2-13+x+2+flat+head+socket+cap+screws+countersunk+bolts&qid=1749506077&sprefix=1/2-13+X++Flat+Head+Socket+Cap+Screws+Countersunk+Bolts,aps,173&sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.com/ColumPRO-Cobalt-Single-End-Countersink-Chamfer/dp/B0CJFBS7DM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=X0EY61TB938J&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.LfSumqsT4B5AKbiOb1e0TNRGmpHjY09FebGhIJIfmYKJV6gGMds4-xOJiu0fhky_8JMdapm-eFnDIKkyPfC-rZVbdhJ58ALeM7F2RyzSwBR9b7O3VmEF4g2YMitiGOID23TB2XRc30Y0gPC-YrM5A0p-WSs_r_PgDrwt00wZDZDyzfmGSbj0YBWA_ToT4-jUjmSRgVVn8VB2gIsfDf8wijYPeLde2Ve_qnb93tvgCrA.wSO_EPPkjJA40g0cqV4alcesFglqBhBNJmxK_exRftQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=countersink+metal&qid=1749506711&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
Installed the UCF "no body lift" skid last weekend. The transmission mount location is 1 1/4" higher than my OE 2006 skid.
With the AFE exhaust, the converter would hit the floor and be lifting the front of the Jeep before the skid hit the frame rails.
I trimmed about 1 1/8" out of the converter hanger and that fixed that problem.
I'm not a fan of the UCF locker pump mount so I just cut the ends off the stock bracket and bent the rear edge out to 45 degrees then drilled holes in that and the skid to mount it in a similar to factory location. No changes to wiring or hoses needed.
There was some vibration from the new rear shaft angle.
After a mild wheeling trip, there is a bolt on the case hitting the floorboard just above the front output. I tried to bend it up with a pry bar to make some room, but couldn't get the floor to bend. I'll have to lower everything down so I can get a hammer in there sometime.
I had to trim the lower edge of the fan shroud to clear the fan once it was all in. It tipped the front of the engine forward quite a bit.
I'm contemplating a MML to correct for that, possibly make some more room above the t-case and improve the rear u-joint angle. It would give me a little more space between the skid and transmission pan as well.
With the AFE exhaust, the converter would hit the floor and be lifting the front of the Jeep before the skid hit the frame rails.
I trimmed about 1 1/8" out of the converter hanger and that fixed that problem.
I'm not a fan of the UCF locker pump mount so I just cut the ends off the stock bracket and bent the rear edge out to 45 degrees then drilled holes in that and the skid to mount it in a similar to factory location. No changes to wiring or hoses needed.
There was some vibration from the new rear shaft angle.
After a mild wheeling trip, there is a bolt on the case hitting the floorboard just above the front output. I tried to bend it up with a pry bar to make some room, but couldn't get the floor to bend. I'll have to lower everything down so I can get a hammer in there sometime.
I had to trim the lower edge of the fan shroud to clear the fan once it was all in. It tipped the front of the engine forward quite a bit.
I'm contemplating a MML to correct for that, possibly make some more room above the t-case and improve the rear u-joint angle. It would give me a little more space between the skid and transmission pan as well.
Hasselblad
TJ Enthusiast
So I took advantage of the current 30% discount with teraflex and ordered a belly up plate and compressor relocation bracket.
Now this evening I saw on the instructions:
NOTE: It will be necessary to cut the transmission mount bracket
that holds the exhaust. Cut approximately 3/4” to 1” out of
the middle and weld the bracket back together before re-install-
ing. Failure to do so may result in binding in the exhaust or
the exhaust may touch the body.
Is this actually a concern if I already have a 1.25" body lift?
Also, almost certain my existing shovel doesn't have anything beyond the narrow bolt slots, and not a bracket above the plate that would be transfered over to the teraflex.
Was hoping this would be more straightforward
Now this evening I saw on the instructions:
NOTE: It will be necessary to cut the transmission mount bracket
that holds the exhaust. Cut approximately 3/4” to 1” out of
the middle and weld the bracket back together before re-install-
ing. Failure to do so may result in binding in the exhaust or
the exhaust may touch the body.
Is this actually a concern if I already have a 1.25" body lift?
Also, almost certain my existing shovel doesn't have anything beyond the narrow bolt slots, and not a bracket above the plate that would be transfered over to the teraflex.
Was hoping this would be more straightforward
Depends. Ignore it and see what happens. Worst case you take it all apart and fix it.
I pulled my high clearance skid 4-5 times adjusting the exhaust.
-Mac
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