Basket's Build

Smooov
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I did the tie rod flip

Some of my less bad booger welds
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The tapered insert I originally ordered had the lip on the bottom side which is not safe since the nut won't interface with the knuckle
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dogs at work
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I got the new tapered insert from Jeremy who got it from Tyler!! I think. Really keeping USPS busy.
I had to grind it down some because it was a smidge longer than the knuckle
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these ones were ugly lol
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Wow look at all that clearance!!!!
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Also. I moved the axle back a little bit. Trying to reduce the interference I have with my tie rod and steering damper bolt head. I also ground down the bolt head a little to try to make it better. It still interferes but doesn't "stick" in the steering as bad anymore. I don't know why I have so much interference there.

Looks like I only took a pic before I changed things.
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I did the tie rod flip

Some of my less bad booger welds
View attachment 674890
View attachment 674891

The tapered insert I originally ordered had the lip on the bottom side which is not safe since the nut won't interface with the knuckle
View attachment 674892

dogs at work
View attachment 674893

I got the new tapered insert from Jeremy who got it from Tyler!! I think. Really keeping USPS busy.
I had to grind it down some because it was a smidge longer than the knuckle
View attachment 674894

these
I got the new tapered insert from Jeremy who got it from Tyler!! I think. Really keeping USPS busy.
I just sold that to him too 😅
Wow look at all that clearance!!!!
View attachment 674896
Is it the photo is the driver side tie rod link bent along the threaded portion?
 
I just sold that to him too 😅
Yes you did the deal in my build thread. But looks like I won in the end :ROFLMAO:
Is it the photo is the driver side tie rod link bent along the threaded portion?
Uhh I don't know. I didn't notice that when I was messing with it and it threads in and out easy enough. But I can check and see I do kinda see that in the photo. Might just be the way the photo from a phone looks on the edges
 
I did the tie rod flip

Some of my less bad booger welds
View attachment 674890
View attachment 674891

The tapered insert I originally ordered had the lip on the bottom side which is not safe since the nut won't interface with the knuckle
View attachment 674892

dogs at work
View attachment 674893

I got the new tapered insert from Jeremy who got it from Tyler!! I think. Really keeping USPS busy.
I had to grind it down some because it was a smidge longer than the knuckle
View attachment 674894

these ones were ugly lol
View attachment 674895

Wow look at all that clearance!!!!
View attachment 674896

Are your rotors so far inboard there isn't room for debris shields ? Who's draglink and tie rod setup are you using ? Oh , and since nobody else commented , the purple flair nut fitting is uber special !
 
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Are your rotors so far inboard there isn't room for debris shields ? Who's draglink and tie rod setup are you using ? Oh , and since nobody else commented , the purple flair nut fitting is uber special !

Oh no I just forgot to put the dust shields back on once and then threw them away ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ it is a correctlync. And thank you appreciating the color
 
I did the tie rod flip

Some of my less bad booger welds
View attachment 674890
View attachment 674891

The tapered insert I originally ordered had the lip on the bottom side which is not safe since the nut won't interface with the knuckle
View attachment 674892

dogs at work
View attachment 674893

I got the new tapered insert from Jeremy who got it from Tyler!! I think. Really keeping USPS busy.
I had to grind it down some because it was a smidge longer than the knuckle
View attachment 674894

these ones were ugly lol
View attachment 674895

Wow look at all that clearance!!!!
View attachment 674896
If that area was NOT supposed to be welded to the inner C, there would be no reason for it to exist.
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You should take a nice clear picture of the nut tightened. I'll bet good money you only have 6 small points of contact between the nut and the outside of the hole.
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If that area was NOT supposed to be welded to the inner C, there would be no reason for it to exist.
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Oh whoops. Thanks. Looking through my pics it looks like I did get that on the other side but missed it on this side for some reason.
You should take a nice clear picture of the nut tightened. I'll bet good money you only have 6 small points of contact between the nut and the outside of the hole.
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Oh yeah I did notice that, the castle nut was digging into the knuckle and barely touching it. I ended up putting a washer under it and using Loctite. Is that bad?
 
Also. I moved the axle back a little bit. Trying to reduce the interference I have with my tie rod and steering damper bolt head. I also ground down the bolt head a little to try to make it better. It still interferes but doesn't "stick" in the steering as bad anymore. I don't know why I have so much interference there.

Looks like I only took a pic before I changed things.
View attachment 674898
You have contact because you have managed to flatten out the bend in that noodly stock draglink. Are you also running a drop pitman because it looks like you are running a drop pitman.
 
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You have contact because you have managed to flatten out the bend in that noodly stock draglink. Are you also running a drop pitman because it looks like you are running a drop pitman.

Ahh that makes sense. I did try putting flat stock against the tie rod to see if it was bent but didn't check the draglink. I guess I should pull it back out and try to give it some more bend. But no I have a stock pitman arm still
 
Wait... stock drag link? @rasband when you sold me the correctlync was it just the tie rod portion? It was so long ago I don't really remember.
 
Did you have to remove the draglink on the passanger side knuckle to cut the old swaybar? Want to swap to a swayloc and do the raised bracket at the same time but would like to not have to remove the links to cut the old bracket or have to do the bbk the same time.
 
Did you have to remove the draglink on the passanger side knuckle to cut the old swaybar? Want to swap to a swayloc and do the raised bracket at the same time but would like to not have to remove the links to cut the old bracket or have to do the bbk the same time.

I did remove from both knuckles. Maybe you could still do it if you got in there with a little die grinder. I was using a 4.5" angle grinder so it was in the way. I don't see why that is a big deal though, it is only 2 nuts to remove from the knuckles?
 
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