was looking at it backwards, realized you did put the engine skid on the bottom.
I want to redo my engine mounts so my skid isn’t crooked
How did it end up crooked?
I did the tie rod flip
Some of my less bad booger welds
View attachment 674890
View attachment 674891
The tapered insert I originally ordered had the lip on the bottom side which is not safe since the nut won't interface with the knuckle
View attachment 674892
dogs at work
View attachment 674893
I got the new tapered insert from Jeremy who got it from Tyler!! I think. Really keeping USPS busy.
I had to grind it down some because it was a smidge longer than the knuckle
View attachment 674894
these
I just sold that to him tooI got the new tapered insert from Jeremy who got it from Tyler!! I think. Really keeping USPS busy.
Is it the photo is the driver side tie rod link bent along the threaded portion?Wow look at all that clearance!!!!
View attachment 674896
Yes you did the deal in my build thread. But looks like I won in the endI just sold that to him too![]()
Uhh I don't know. I didn't notice that when I was messing with it and it threads in and out easy enough. But I can check and see I do kinda see that in the photo. Might just be the way the photo from a phone looks on the edgesIs it the photo is the driver side tie rod link bent along the threaded portion?
I did the tie rod flip
Some of my less bad booger welds
View attachment 674890
View attachment 674891
The tapered insert I originally ordered had the lip on the bottom side which is not safe since the nut won't interface with the knuckle
View attachment 674892
dogs at work
View attachment 674893
I got the new tapered insert from Jeremy who got it from Tyler!! I think. Really keeping USPS busy.
I had to grind it down some because it was a smidge longer than the knuckle
View attachment 674894
these ones were ugly lol
View attachment 674895
Wow look at all that clearance!!!!
View attachment 674896
Are your rotors so far inboard there isn't room for debris shields ? Who's draglink and tie rod setup are you using ? Oh , and since nobody else commented , the purple flair nut fitting is uber special !
If that area was NOT supposed to be welded to the inner C, there would be no reason for it to exist.I did the tie rod flip
Some of my less bad booger welds
View attachment 674890
View attachment 674891
The tapered insert I originally ordered had the lip on the bottom side which is not safe since the nut won't interface with the knuckle
View attachment 674892
dogs at work
View attachment 674893
I got the new tapered insert from Jeremy who got it from Tyler!! I think. Really keeping USPS busy.
I had to grind it down some because it was a smidge longer than the knuckle
View attachment 674894
these ones were ugly lol
View attachment 674895
Wow look at all that clearance!!!!
View attachment 674896
Oh whoops. Thanks. Looking through my pics it looks like I did get that on the other side but missed it on this side for some reason.If that area was NOT supposed to be welded to the inner C, there would be no reason for it to exist.
View attachment 674899
Oh yeah I did notice that, the castle nut was digging into the knuckle and barely touching it. I ended up putting a washer under it and using Loctite. Is that bad?You should take a nice clear picture of the nut tightened. I'll bet good money you only have 6 small points of contact between the nut and the outside of the hole.
View attachment 674901
You have contact because you have managed to flatten out the bend in that noodly stock draglink. Are you also running a drop pitman because it looks like you are running a drop pitman.Also. I moved the axle back a little bit. Trying to reduce the interference I have with my tie rod and steering damper bolt head. I also ground down the bolt head a little to try to make it better. It still interferes but doesn't "stick" in the steering as bad anymore. I don't know why I have so much interference there.
Looks like I only took a pic before I changed things.
View attachment 674898
You have contact because you have managed to flatten out the bend in that noodly stock draglink. Are you also running a drop pitman because it looks like you are running a drop pitman.
That definitely a stock drag link with the Currie tierod.
Did you have to remove the draglink on the passanger side knuckle to cut the old swaybar? Want to swap to a swayloc and do the raised bracket at the same time but would like to not have to remove the links to cut the old bracket or have to do the bbk the same time.