Free, cheap, & low cost mods for your Jeep Wrangler TJ

[59 wagon man]

Sorry for not explaining but the pics show my motorcraft fl1a oil filter and how I remember when it was changed

 

[derekmac]

2003-2006 gas tank skid 1” clearance mod. If you have a BL, Angle grinder and a drill bit, the cost is a few bolts and a few hours of time

This one's still on my to-do list.

 

[JMT]

This one's still on my to-do list.

As you know, it's the most bang for your buck mod that exists, functionality wise. Practically free if you're willing to get dirty. I would love to get to it soon. If you plan to do it, let me know and maybe we can tag team from a distance and bounce issues we might run into off of one another as we work through it. I'm thinking with my 1.25" BL I may be able to get 1.25" extra clearance. I'll at least aim for 1.125". In the end I'll post up the process I follow.

 

[derekmac]

As you know, it's the most bang for your buck mod that exists, functionality wise. Practically free if you're willing to get dirty. I would love to get to it soon. If you plan to do it, let me know and maybe we can tag team from a distance and bounce issues we might run into off of one another as we work through it. I'm thinking with my 1.25" BL I may be able to get 1.25" extra clearance. I'll at least aim for 1.125". In the end I'll post up the process I follow.

My skid has taken a couple of good hits, and is no longer flat, lol. This is high on my list as I'd like to straighten the skid, and could use that extra clearance. I think I remember reading that there's a crossmember above the tank, so an inch is about max it can tuck. I have a 1.25" BL too, so I would like to lift it that much if at all possible.

 

[JMT]

My skid has taken a couple of good hits, and is no longer flat, lol. This is high on my list as I'd like to straighten the skid, and could use that extra clearance. I think I remember reading that there's a crossmember above the tank, so an inch is about max it can tuck. I have a 1.25" BL too, so I would like to lift it that much if at all possible.

I can identify with 'a few good hits' to the skid. I'll be straightening mine out as well and giving it a fresh coat of paint. Why? So I can beat it up again.

 

[jjvw]

My skid has taken a couple of good hits, and is no longer flat, lol. This is high on my list as I'd like to straighten the skid, and could use that extra clearance. I think I remember reading that there's a crossmember above the tank, so an inch is about max it can tuck. I have a 1.25" BL too, so I would like to lift it that much if at all possible.

I got a hair over an inch when I cut my skid. If I recall, the frame crossmember/upper shock mount is still in the way regardless of how high the body is raised.

I may revisit that cross member when a real skid goes on.

 

[Gbelle21]

it was recommended that i share this in this thread.

8oz daisy sour cream containers make perfect pop in center-caps for some aftermarket wheels, like cragers. they will not work with the spline lock nuts, just with standard 'acorn' nuts.
the tension holds them in place and i have not had one fly off yet. i mean even if one does dislodge, its a good excuse to eat tacos for a replacement.

 

[Sean Allen]

Don't forget the GM filler neck hose replacement to fix the burp back when refueling. And trimming the breather line to get your full 19gal refills! @Chris did a good write up already.

 

[SgtMajor138]

Cheap switch panel.
Grab a chunk of scrap sheet metal, bend it into a box shape. About 1.5-2" deep and about 3" tall (scrap rectangular tube will probably work as well. But I perfer the sheet metal as you can angle the top face towards you)

Drill holes in the top for the toggle switches

Pull the defrost grill off the dash and you will see 2 screws that hold the back of the dash center on. Measure the location of those 2 screws and drill matching holes in the bottom of the switch panel.

Make a nice clean wireing harness from the switches with spade connector, if they are all going to trigger relays you can tie all the feed sides into one wire with short jumpers between the switches. Wires can run down into the dash beside the defrost vent.

Paint it if you want and use the 2 dash screws to secure it. Depending on the size you made it and the tools you have access to holes may need to be drilled in the top as well to access the dash screws.

If you want to get really fancy you could put small ubolts between the switches like a ww2 bomber.

Cost: scrap metal you may have around.
Wireing and terminal ends you probably have around.
Switches (about $5 bucks each up here for ones with lights on the tip)

Did this setup as a temporary way to mount my switches... 6 years ago.

—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.

Would you happen to have any pictures you could share?

 

[Moab]

This should be in the top of the General section. What a great thread. I think it gets lost in here. No one has posted for awhile. And I know this would be as big as the "What did you do to your TJ today?" thread. To many great ideas to pass up.

 

[bedhed]

My favorite thus far is bypassing the relay circuit that makes our OE fog lights turn off when the headlights are switched to "bright". The bright lights are great, but sometimes I'd like to light up the shoulders of the road at the same time.

Using all 5 pins of a 5-pin relay allows electrical components to do the opposite of another. (ie., Fog lights turning off when bright lights are turned on.)

I picked up a spare relay from AutoZone to do this, and kept my OE relay. The fog lamp relay to replace is located in #35 of the power distribution box under the hood.

Pin #1 can either be bent over, or cut to prevent the relay from activating/turning off the fog lights. I have to give credit where credit is due. I'm a nerd when it comes to electronics, but this mod had never crossed my mind. Stu Olson, at StuOffroad.com is great guy. He's shared some very helpful and cool mods on his site.

 

[bedhed]

This one isn't a mod or build. More of a "trick", I suppose. This may be old news to some, but I've owned this Jeep since 2012 and didn't realize until a couple of years ago that it has a built-in code reader.

Cost: FREE
Put the key into the ignition, then follow this sequence:
- Ignition ON, OFF, ON, OFF, ON.

After the key is turned over to ON that last time, your codes will be displayed one at a time. After all codes have been displayed, you will then see "done" across the display. Write down the CEL code and do an online search.

 

[bedhed]

Trottle return spring.
View attachment 32910

Man, the touchy throttle had me all messed up when I bought my Jeep. Any little change in terrain probably had any onlookers thinking I was about to stall out. For the first couple of weeks I was having flashbacks from when I first began learning to drive a manual transmission. I've gotten used to the touchy trottle now, but I'm going to try this out.

 

[bedhed]

View attachment 33051 View attachment 33050 Trailer spring shackles make great tow bar mounts. I moved bumperettes outboard. If bolting to oem bumper, fab a back reinforment out of 1/4” steel & use grade 8 bolts. I’ve also welded them on to my CJ 5 bumper. Cost under $10.00.

This is great. The tolerances look pretty tight too. This has me thinking about maybe doing that for my rear bumper. I welded clevis mounts to my front bumber, but the D-rings rattle, and dampeners dry rot. Do these rattle at all?

 

[JeepZilla380]

Man, the touchy throttle had me all messed up when I bought my Jeep. Any little change in terrain probably had any onlookers thinking I was about to stall out. For the first couple of weeks I was having flashbacks from when I first began learning to drive a manual transmission. I've gotten used to the touchy trottle now, but I'm going to try this out.

Same! Really helped a lot with controlling the throttle on rough terrain.

 

[billiebob]

about $50

 

[MountaineerTom]

My favorite thus far is bypassing the relay circuit that makes our OE fog lights turn off when the headlights are switched to "bright". The bright lights are great, but sometimes I'd like to light up the shoulders of the road at the same time.

Using all 5 pins of a 5-pin relay allows electrical components to do the opposite of another. (ie., Fog lights turning off when bright lights are turned on.)

I picked up a spare relay from AutoZone to do this, and kept my OE relay. The fog lamp relay to replace is located in #35 of the power distribution box under the hood.

Pin #1 can either be bent over, or cut to prevent the relay from activating/turning off the fog lights. I have to give credit where credit is due. I'm a nerd when it comes to electronics, but this mod had never crossed my mind. Stu Olson, at StuOffroad.com is great guy. He's shared some very helpful and cool mods on his site.

View attachment 131942

View attachment 131943

Are there any downsides to doing this? Other electrical problems, fire, etc? LOL

Asking as someone who is not the most knowledgeable or confident in my electrical abilities.

 

[Viking Jeeper]

Are there any downsides to doing this? Other electrical problems, fire, etc? LOL

Asking as someone who is not the most knowledgeable or confident in my electrical abilities.

I bent the pin. Works great. I've never understood why a vehicle "thinks" I want to turn the fog lights off when my bright lights are on. I looked for a similar easy solution for my 2015 GMC but could not find one.

 

[bedhed]

Are there any downsides to doing this? Other electrical problems, fire, etc? LOL

Asking as someone who is not the most knowledgeable or confident in my electrical abilities.

Haha. No, not at all. I see how It can look pretty sketchy though. Look at the relay as you would a regular 12v switch, only this "switch" turns things on and off by using voltage to trigger the switch, instead of being manually pushed. The relay is the middleman between you and the the fog lights, and you are essentially telling the relay to turn things on or off by sending it a 12v signal.

In this case, you are sending the signal/trigger by turning on the high beams. As soon as the high beams are turned on, voltage is sent to the relay, which activates the solenoid to move it's internal on/off switch from it's resting position to it's alternate position. So, until you send power to the relay (by turning on your high beams), the relay is without power and inactive, and the on/off switch does not get "touched"

To put it simply, by bending or cutting this specific pin, you are cutting out this unwanted middleman from turning off lights when you don't want them off.

 

[MountaineerTom]

Haha. No, not at all. I see how It can look pretty sketchy though. Look at the relay as you would a regular 12v switch, only this "switch" turns things on and off by using voltage to trigger the switch, instead of being manually pushed. The relay is the middleman between you and the the fog lights, and you are essentially telling the relay to turn things on or off by sending it a 12v signal.

In this case, you are sending the signal/trigger by turning on the high beams. As soon as the high beams are turned on, voltage is sent to the relay, which activates the solenoid to move it's internal on/off switch from it's resting position to it's alternate position. So, until you send power to the relay (by turning on your high beams), the relay is without power and inactive, and the on/off switch does not get "touched"

To put it simply, by bending or cutting this specific pin, you are cutting out this unwanted middleman from turning off lights when you don't want them off.

I pick up a relay earlier today to potentially try it. I cut off pin #1 with a Dremel tool. It works well. Thanks for all this info.