Here is a video I did from 1st thru 5th gears up to 75mph. Granted it's not the best comparison since I have the wheels off. This is with MC arms.
New control arms (Savvy versus Metalcloak)
- Thread starter WNC05willys
- Start date
Here is a video I did from 1st thru 5th gears up to 75mph. Granted it's not the best comparison since I have the wheels off. This is with MC arms.
Without the ground to push back on the axle, there can't be much axle wrap. I tried googling axle wrap for TJ's, but I can only find leaf spring XJ's for now.
The vibrations I had after my 513 re gear would disappear as soon as I let off the regardless of my speed.
Interesting. Do you have MC joints? Having the vibes go away when letting off would indicate the pinion is too high. What was the fix for your case?
No. All 8 CAs are Savvy with JJs. Never got it to go away with the stock axle. I could reduce it to where it would start till 67-70, but it was always there unless I let off the gas. Fix? Recently installed an RJ60 (got a great deal on one only used for mock up). No vibes with the rear shaft. Front is out at TW getting a 1350 for the RJ44 I just installed on the front.
I guess we are derailing a bit, but is your axle straight? I know you've run the gambit - so if you don't want to rehash it again just say so
. From what I recall, you also are through multiple regearings (so I would hope a shop would catch any bends in that process).
a leaf is basically secured form a single point (pinned down) all that force has to be controlled within a very small patch of the spring. basically balancing on the point of a triangle.
our TJ's use the spread of the control links to do this and it's triangulated from the body to the axle supplying a much wider/bigger control base. here we use the base of the triangle as our stabilizer.
what we would experience would be joint loading or joint slop for some and any part of that joint that can compress or move under torque will. this can contribute to axle wrap for us i'd think. the more motion your joint can move that center in the casing the more this might be evident.
Yep, been there, done that. On the latest blood letting I took it to a shop in Sac and had every internal piece of the rear axle replaced. RGA chromo shafts, new bearings, new TT carrier, new ring/pinion, new bearings. Even replaced the rear diff yoke. Also had an alignment done. If the housing was bent, I'd see it in the printout of the rear thrust angles, camber, toe angles.I guess we are derailing a bit, but is your axle straight? I know you've run the gambit - so if you don't want to rehash it again just say so
There was once upon a time a video showing the rear axle of a MC equipped rig trying to get up a ledge or climbing one. The amount of deflection allowing the pinion to move around was pretty impressive.
i can feel my MC joints load when i put it in gear. my rear axle has some torque steer that's not from being crooked. i think it's the joints maybe 1's shot, IDK. they will be replaced with jj's and longer links.
it's disco'd while i lap new front gears.
i also have front end vibes, not sure if that's the pinion or the joints just yet. they do not feel like they load as heavy as the rear does (just lowers) but that's a push vs pull also. still seeing if i can dial the pinion to help it but running out of castor quick.
trying to get some joints from another forum member to replace those.
everybody says they are not really accurate with the amount of movement they actually supply in their marketing claims..........but i believe them that extra couple degrees comes from the rubber being smashed to it's loaded side every movement moment.
it's disco'd while i lap new front gears.
i also have front end vibes, not sure if that's the pinion or the joints just yet. they do not feel like they load as heavy as the rear does (just lowers) but that's a push vs pull also. still seeing if i can dial the pinion to help it but running out of castor quick.
trying to get some joints from another forum member to replace those.
everybody says they are not really accurate with the amount of movement they actually supply in their marketing claims..........but i believe them that extra couple degrees comes from the rubber being smashed to it's loaded side every movement moment.
Doesn't need to be. There can be multiple small events that compound into a larger problem.
Bent axle wouldn't be very high on the list that will cause that sort of a problem.I guess we are derailing a bit, but is your axle straight? I know you've run the gambit - so if you don't want to rehash it again just say so
not a direct coloration but maybe worth a mention.
i took the MC joints to work welded a bolt to the table and pulled the joints to max deflection. it took between 7-15ft # to pull the joints. i tested 2 arms, both ends, 4 joints.
the joint is fairly tight in the casing and it has to flex the rubber to make this motion from what i witnessed.
if i can move/flex that rubber in the casing with just 15# max pressure whats the weight of the jeep do to it?
what happens if that weight goes neutral for a few sec's or the suspension cycles quickly?
what i really kinda wanna do is strip that center and see how much cushion is there and how much potential movement could occur.
i took the MC joints to work welded a bolt to the table and pulled the joints to max deflection. it took between 7-15ft # to pull the joints. i tested 2 arms, both ends, 4 joints.
the joint is fairly tight in the casing and it has to flex the rubber to make this motion from what i witnessed.
if i can move/flex that rubber in the casing with just 15# max pressure whats the weight of the jeep do to it?
what happens if that weight goes neutral for a few sec's or the suspension cycles quickly?
what i really kinda wanna do is strip that center and see how much cushion is there and how much potential movement could occur.
I know, he’s just run all over chasing his vibes. Figure long shots are still shots.
jesseshoots
TJ Enthusiast
I bought my Savvy arms thru @Garza at 4LowParts. They shipped the next day direct from Savvy for less than the Currie arms cost before shipping.
shaft looks like glass at speed to me. can you set that camera and get in and put it in and out of gear a couple times with the wheels on, see if that shifts the diff. or even give it a mild power brake.
Same problem with all three shafts? Balance issues are usually speed range sensitive (like 45-55 etc) and do not just linger around.
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