New control arms (Savvy versus Metalcloak)

[someguysjeep]

One big problem I see with MC joints vs JJ is that they have a non serviceable wear surface. MC cannot tell me that the barrel is not going to wear especially in areas where contamination can happen.

that rubber is bonded to the bushing, no? the bushing is torqued in tight, yes?
the wear surface would be the rubber against the casing, correct? that's about as serviceable as any other labeled as such. we have the ability to grease them it's just a PITA.

 

[jjvw]

that rubber is bonded to the bushing, no? the bushing is torqued in tight, yes?
the wear surface would be the rubber against the casing, correct? that's about as serviceable as any other labeled as such. we have the ability to grease them it's just a PITA.

What about the barrel housing itself? Or does only the rubber side wear?

 

[JEEPCJTJ]

Either way, I would think it would be counter productive to use components that allow unnecessary axle wrap, especially on a sensitive vehicle.

A lot of stuff in this thread. I'm not sure I'll ever need any of it but it's all interesting, especially that description of our beloved TJs, which leads me to wonder how many times vibration might just come from anxiety the Jeep has about a certain part.

 

[someguysjeep]

What about the barrel housing itself? Or does only the rubber side wear?

the rubbers bonded to the center bushing and the layer of grease allows it to slip around in the casing. if the rubber is not greased and begins to rub and wear it's already on it's way out.
when i pulled my joints apart they were bone dry, no sign of any lubricant. i did lube them with the supplied grease when they were originally installed about 1yr earlier. a couple had gritty debris in them.

the casing or barrel housing is tube like any other. IMO it'd take some time and debris and some borderline neglect to wear it. the center bushing is torque clamped into the suspension bracket, it should not be spinning. the soft rubber will be the 1st material to go.

here's pics of the front upper with less than 1500mi on it, and 1 trip OR. it just flopped loose and about busted me in the face when i removed the axle end...........WTF is up with a huge hole and it ripped off the bushing too, it's trashed, it had to get bound and torn no other way to explain it.
it's really unsettling. this lift has no miles on it and none of the abuse it's been claimed able to handle.

next day or 2 i'll get this 1 torn apart and we can all see what's goin on. and i'll see what the rubber crushes at and cut it open to see this bushing/center.

 

[D M]

I plan on going with the savvys because as stated above, tried and true. Seeing people run JJ's with no issues and they really are a strong material(not saying metalcloak isnt). The only reason I would really lean towards Metalcloak is because you can get a wrench anywhere on the middle of the joint since it is shaped like a hexagon, while the savvy/currie arm is circular along the center.

 

[Blackjack]

that rubber is bonded to the bushing, no? the bushing is torqued in tight, yes?
the wear surface would be the rubber against the casing, correct? that's about as serviceable as any other labeled as such. we have the ability to grease them it's just a PITA.

You are talking about a non sealed bearing surface with little more than some magic grease in there. No matter which way you slice it eventually the ID of the barrel will increase and then what do you do?

 

[someguysjeep]

You are talking about a non sealed bearing surface with little more than some magic grease in there. No matter which way you slice it eventually the ID of the barrel will increase and then what do you do?

the OD of the rubber bushing is wearing not the casing/barrel /body. it could don't get me wrong but that'd take a handful of sand and some time and then the rubber still has to hold up long enough to allow the foreign substance to gouge steel.

neither joint i pulled apart with grit inside showed any signs of case wear.

 

[jjvw]

... The only reason I would really lean towards Metalcloak is because you can get a wrench anywhere on the middle of the joint since it is shaped like a hexagon, while the savvy/currie arm is circular along the center.

If a wrench is needed to turn the arm, the arm is in bind and is the wrong arm to be turning right then and there.

 

[bobthetj03]

Other than a little rubber transfer to the inside of the casing due to the grease drying out, I see nothing to be alarmed about, after 35K miles on the bushings. A small hammer and a set of snap ring plies on a vice and I had the joint cleaned up, re-greased, and the bushing installed in 3 minutes.

 

[bobthetj03]

If a wrench is needed to turn the arm, the arm is in bind and is the wrong arm to be turning right then and there.

Very true, but the hexagonal arms make for a nice clocking reference as your turning both arms by hand.

 

[Alex01]

Very true, but the hexagonal arms make for a nice clocking reference as your turning both arms by hand.

That was one of my favorite features. It really made adjusting the arms, by sight, much easier. With the midarms, I used a paint pen to make reference marks so I could adjust in a similar manner when I set the pinion angle.

 

[someguysjeep]

my snap ring pliers are at work but yall made me get at this now.
this had to be torn because it dried and could not move. only way i can think it could happen.
the casing is not any issue. and i've mentioned b4 if you run these joints grease them at least 2x a yr or more if you run in dirty terrain.
casing is spotless. i did also have some rubber transfer in a couple.
i can crush the rubber with pliers in my left hand, hmmmm.

 

[JDS123]

my snap ring pliers are at work but yall made me get at this now.
this had to be torn because it dried and could not move. only way i can think it could happen.
the casing is not any issue. and i've mentioned b4 if you run these joints grease them at least 2x a yr or more if you run in dirty terrain.
casing is spotless. i did also have some rubber transfer in a couple.
i can crush the rubber with pliers in my left hand, hmmmm.

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That torn joint has 1500 miles on it? You could have told me it had 150k miles on it and I would believe it.

 

[Alex01]

my snap ring pliers are at work but yall made me get at this now.
this had to be torn because it dried and could not move. only way i can think it could happen.
the casing is not any issue. and i've mentioned b4 if you run these joints grease them at least 2x a yr or more if you run in dirty terrain.
casing is spotless. i did also have some rubber transfer in a couple.
i can crush the rubber with pliers in my left hand, hmmmm.

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Have you called MC? I'm interested in hearing if they will send you a new joint free of charge.

 

[someguysjeep]

1500 is a tall guestimate more like 1100.

changing all joints to JJ's and longer links the SA is not for me at 4".

 

[Jerry Bransford]

1500 is a tall guestimate more like 1100.

changing all joints to JJ's and longer links the SA is not for me at 4".

You're thinking 4" is too tall for a short-arm suspension? Why would you say that?

 

[someguysjeep]

You're thinking 4" is too tall for a short-arm suspension? Why would you say that?

not at all Jerry, it's just not to MY liking.

 

[D M]

If a wrench is needed to turn the arm, the arm is in bind and is the wrong arm to be turning right then and there.

im saying the literal shape of the arm, you can get a wrench anywhere on the metalcloak compared to savvy.
Metalcloak

Savvy below

 

[jjvw]

Very true, but the hexagonal arms make for a nice clocking reference as your turning both arms by hand.

I use a Sharpie.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I use a Sharpie.

Same here, not to mention all five of those flats look the same to me.