Woodrow's 97 Green TJ (NOT SO) Moderate Build

Automotive rock bottom? No, but man am I sick of it.

I recently posted about my stroker issues (rear main and front harmonic balancer seal leaks with extruded cam bearings noted upon inspection after pulling the oil pan). More to come on that, hopefully with minimal drama.

I have 3 or 4 rigs I drive regularly (TJ, Dodge pickup, Mustang GT and ‘94 GMC flat bed). My wife’s car makes 5 that I maintain. At this point, I have fully bought into the vehicle maintenance thing. Partially because I enjoy the challenge and the work and a little bit because it’s better economically for me, because new cars are so ridiculously products of government and customer requirements for over-the-top electronic BS (@Zorba) and because buying less new cars is better for the planet.

Regardless of how I got here, here I am:
The TJ is likely going to need a rebuilt or new motor. That sucks because: A) I bought a new motor from Golen 20K miles ago. B) I have other more interesting things to do on the Jeep so I can do this stuff:
View attachment 701470
C) wheeling season is still underway. D) My wife, or anyone else, could rightly say “how much F-ing money are you going to spend on that thing!”. She, to her credit, has NOT said that.
Then there are the other 4 vehicles…
1) My tow rig, an ‘08 Dodge 3500 CTD got an ATS Allison swap several years ago which is STILL having issues. I don’t have time to mess with it so its at a local shop that I trust to either sort it out or I’m selling it. I thought it might be TCM tune related, but it seems to be the torque converter. That was replaced under warranty not too long ago but apparently there is a new ATS TC that will fix itT🙄. The TC is a $2K part that ATS will warranty (3 years later, despite 1 warranty) but I will pay the labor.
2) The GMC flat bed is a water truck on the property during fire season and an extra truck otherwise. Its old and had 277K when the OD stopped working but I try to keep it up. In that vein, I drove it out to the shop where the tow rig is getting transmission work on Friday (you know, to keep the fluids moving around, plus I like it). In the parking lot, this happened:
View attachment 701469
The passenger front CV axle exploded and fell all over the parking lot (red arrows). New last year. So I replaced it with another Chinese part from Autozone in the lot. NOT how I had planned to spend my afternoon. When I was done, the truck wouldn’t start. I recently replaced the 4 year old battery (which had a bad cell) for this problem. I’m guessing I have a ground leak draining the battery as it always starts right up at home where it sits on a trickle charger. Luckily, the shop lot is at the top of a hill and I could start it by rolling downhill and popping the clutch. I’ll figure that out later.
3) My wife’s ‘17 BMW X3 has been a great car but it has 160K on it so we have been looking for a replacement for a year. Here she is when we traded the ‘13 (Right) for the ‘17 (Left).
View attachment 701468
She really likes this one but we both agree the new BMWs look awful. I’ve driven comparable Mercedes, Audi and Porsche SUVs and none seem worth the money and all are over burdened with electronics. Maybe a Volvo? We had an ‘85 245DL wagon which we both loved back in the day but ever since Geely (China) bought Volvo, I have been turned off. This should be easy but its not!
4) The ‘12 Mustang GT
View attachment 701467
is my most reliable vehicle but It needs a new rear end (whine is really loud at freeway speeds/80 mph). Certainly in my wheelhouse now but I don’t have time!

Should I sell the Mustang , buy a new tow rig, use the tow rig for a fire truck and get a CRV for my wife? NO. But it’s tempting.
I recently posted a whine about maintaining all our older vehicles. We solved one issue by finally updating my wife's car (a 10 year old, 160K mile BMW X3). Above, I mentioned considering a pivot away from the German SUVs she has had recently back to a Volvo. So, we test drove a 2026 Volvo XC 60 plug-in hybrid. We liked it enough that we bought it.
IMG_2666.webp

IMG_2662.webp

Styling is subjective, but we both like the conservative understated looks of the old X3 and the current XC 60. The new Germans seem gaudy to our senses, and over priced. Compared to our X3, the XC 60 is ever so slightly larger and 600lbs heavier. Neither car has communicative steering, but both are precise. Both have adequate brakes. I like the suspension more on the BMW. While the turbo straight 6 in the BMW is a sweet motor, the XC 60 hybrid drivetrain is much quicker. Combined output is an impressive for a grocery getter 455hp/523ft.lbs. which is good for 0-60 in 4.4sec (as fast as my Mustang GT). Gas mileage is also way better with the Volvo. The BMW gets about 21 city and 27 hwy for us (the Mustang gets 15 city/ 24 hwy with a lead footed driver). After 800 miles, the Volvo will give a 40 mile all EV range which means for most daily driving it uses no gas at all. Charging from 0 to full takes under 5 hours with a 220V, 20 amp plug-in. On the hwy, in hybrid mode, we are seeing about 39mpg. The Volvo is also much quieter on the highway and electric/ICE transitions are quite seamless.

Of course, because its new and because its our first hybrid, I had to poke around some. Love that high hood opening:
IMG_2680.webp

Once the cover is off, except for the orange stuff, a pretty standard modern 2.0L turbo 4 is in view (sort of):
IMG_2682.webp

This set up uses the 312hp/295ft.lb transverse mounted turbo 4 with an 8 speed transmission for the front axle and a 143hp/228ft.lb direct drive electric motor for the rear axle powered by a 15 kWh battery in what would normally be the trans tunnel. There is also a starter/generator motor between the ICE and transmission which can charge the battery and add some torque when necessary.
IMG_2667.webp

Underneath its a pretty flat belly:
IMG_2672.webp

And after pulling the cover, oil changes don’t look hard:
IMG_2673.webp

Front suspension is multi link with upper wishbone and lower A-arm controlled by a standard strut. Check out the single pot caliper (red circle). The rotor is a fairly large 13.6” with a wide swept area and brakes feel better than one piston might suggest.
IMG_2671.webp

If you can look past that giant skid plate of a muffler, the rear suspension is interesting. A big fiberglass mono-leaf controlled by conventional shocks. Reminds me of a model-T (or a Corvette).
IMG_2677.webp

It’s definitely not our old 245 DL wagon, though I think there are some parallels. Time will tell how it holds up.
 
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I recently posted a whine about maintaining all our older vehicles. We solved one issue by finally updating my wife's car (a 10 year old, 160K mile BMW X3). Above, I mentioned considering a pivot away from the German SUVs she has had recently back to a Volvo. So, we test drove a 2026 Volvo XC 60 plug-in hybrid. We liked it enough that we bought it.
View attachment 704726
View attachment 704727
Styling is subjective, but we both like the conservative understated looks of the old X3 and the current XC 60. The new Germans seem gaudy to our senses, and over priced. Compared to our X3, the XC 60 is ever so slightly larger and 600lbs heavier. Neither car has communicative steering, but both are precise. Both have adequate brakes. I like the suspension more on the BMW. While the turbo straight 6 in the BMW is a sweet motor, the XC 60 hybrid drivetrain is much quicker. Combined output is an impressive for a grocery getter 455hp/523ft.lbs. which is good for 0-60 in 4.4sec (as fast as my Mustang GT). Gas mileage is also way better with the Volvo. The BMW gets about 21 city and 27 hwy for us (the Mustang gets 15 city/ 24 hwy with a lead footed driver). After 800 miles, the Volvo will give a 40 mile all EV range which means for most daily driving it uses no gas at all. Charging from 0 to full takes under 5 hours with a 220V, 20 amp plug-in. On the hwy, in hybrid mode, we are seeing about 39mpg. The Volvo is also much quieter on the highway and electric/ICE transitions are quite seamless.

Of course, because its new and because its our first hybrid, I had to poke around some. Love that high hood opening:
View attachment 704728
Once the cover is off, except for the orange stuff, a pretty standard modern 2.0L turbo 4 is in view (sort of):
View attachment 704729
This set up uses the 312hp/295ft.lb transverse mounted turbo 4 with an 8 speed transmission for the front axle and a 143hp/228ft.lb direct drive electric motor for the rear axle powered by a 15 kWh battery in what would normally be the trans tunnel. There is also a starter/generator motor between the ICE and transmission which can charge the battery and add some torque when necessary.
View attachment 704730
Underneath its a pretty flat belly:
View attachment 704731
And after pulling the cover, oil changes don’t look hard:
View attachment 704732
Front suspension is multi link with upper wishbone and lower A-arm controlled by a standard strut. Check out the single pot caliper (red circle). The rotor is a fairly large 13.6” with a wide swept area and brakes feel better than one piston might suggest.
View attachment 704735
If you can look past that giant skid plate of a muffler, the rear suspension is interesting. A big fiberglass mono-leaf controlled by conventional shocks. Reminds me of a model-T (or a Corvette).
View attachment 704737
It’s definitely not our old 245 DL wagon, though I think there are some parallels. Time will tell how it holds up.

Nice choice Mike. My neighbor Thomas - whom you know - has one of those and loves it.

And I'm with you on the BMW. I'm a BMW guy from way back, but the current styling is also a big turn off for me.

Oh yeah, that and the 2 $10,000+ repairs on the big V8 in my last one...😳
 
Nice choice Mike. My neighbor Thomas - whom you know - has one of those and loves it.

And I'm with you on the BMW. I'm a BMW guy from way back, but the current styling is also a big turn off for me.

Oh yeah, that and the 2 $10,000+ repairs on the big V8 in my last one...😳

Thx Jeff. It took a while to figure out what we wanted. Nothing is perfect, but the XC 60 seems good.

Did Thomas get the V8 swap done in his JK? Does he drive the GT2 much, or let you drive it?

I’m keeping the X3 to drive to my new job, but if it has a big mechanical that I can’t fix, I’ll probably scrap it. Old luxury SUVs are fairly worthless, in part, I think because of repair costs. Once, Susanne lost the water pump on the X3. Its electric, and pretty straight forward to get to. But I didn’t have time and the Jeep was on the lift for a longer project, so I trailed the BMW to the dealer. “How bad could it be?” I thought. I think you know the answer… $2200! For a water pump!
 
Recently, I got aluminum TJ rub rails from @Fluxor. They are made to be an easy install with the flux offroad corner armor and either stock hinges or his hinges. Of course, I have Genright corner armor and Morryde hinges. Those hinges have their weaknesses, but work well for my build so I decided to trim the back of the passenger rail to fit. The rails are 3/4” by 1 1/4” solid aluminum with radiused edges at the ends and there is a counter sunk hole at each end. To shorten the rear, I need to do a square cut, recreate the radius and make a new counter sunk (edit from @sab: counter BORE) hole. I talked to a machine shop but when I explained what I needed, the guy said he was scared to mess it up. I guess I appreciate the honesty so here goes with hand tools:
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I took my time and it went OK. I still need to drill the armor/tub to mount them as only 1 of the 5 holes (1 through hole on each end and 3 slotted holes on the back side that use carriage bolts) work with the existing holes. I will also need to pull the armor for the install because the front hole will require a rivnut and I will need to clean the metal shavings from between the tub and armor. Another day.
 
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Nice work, Mike!

I talked to a machine shop but when I explained what I needed, the guy said he was scared to mess it up.
Wow! I don't know if I could ever use a machine shop that thought that was a difficult job. 😬

...there is a counter sunk hole at each end. To shorten the rear, I need to do a square cut, recreate the radius and make a new counter sunk hole.
The correct term for that type hole treatment is counterbored, not countersunk. ;) It's typically abbreviated "C'BORE" on drawings (and countersunk is "C'SINK"). If talking with a machine shop, it's important to know the difference, lest you get a bit of a surprise.

On that note, did you use a piloted counterbore tool to make yours?

...I have Genright corner armor...only 1 of the 5 holes...work with the existing holes.
I have Genright corner armor, too. Let me guess - the rear-most hole on each side (not rear) matched up?

I will also need to pull the armor for the install because the front hole will require a rivnut and I will need to clean the metal shavings from between the tub and armor. Another day.
You probably saw from my build thread post yesterday that I just did that very thing... :)
 
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front hole will require a rivnut

Looks good, thanks for posting this! I would imagine Its not as hard as it seems after doing it. The 6061 is pretty easy to work with.

You can drill and tap the armor for the front hole. Most forces on the rubrail will pushing in and the 3/16 of 6061 threads should lift what's needed. You can always add the rivnut later.
 
Nice work, Mike!


Wow! I don't know if I could ever use a machine shop that thought that was a difficult job. 😬
Small town. But I was surprised.
The correct term for that type hole treatment is counterbored, not countersunk. ;) It's typically abbreviated "C'BORE" on drawings (and countersunk is "C'SINK"). If talking with a machine shop, it's important to know the difference, lest you get a bit of a surprise.
Thx for the terminology help. Speaking which: Rivnut or Nutsert?
On that note, did you use a piloted counterbore tool to make yours?
Yep. 1/4"-1/2". Just a steel wood tool, not carbide but it did fine with the aluminum with some cutting oil. Then I had to widen the bore with a 17/32" bit and drill the 1/4" up to 5/16". Definitely a fiddly little project.
I have Genright corner armor, too. Let me guess - the rear-most hole on each side (not rear) matched up?
Correct.
You probably saw from my build thread post yesterday that I just did that very thing... :)
I did!
 
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Speaking which: Rivnut or Nutsert?
Those are both brand names. The generic term is rivet nut. As an aside, if you ever want to know the generic term for something, search for it on McMaster-Carr. They're good about having brand names in their search database, but they don't use brand names in their product descriptions (except in some rare cases). If you search either of those on McMaster-Carr, it'll point you to their rivet nut section of their catalog...
 
Looks good, thanks for posting this! I would imagine Its not as hard as it seems after doing it. The 6061 is pretty easy to work with.

You can drill and tap the armor for the front hole. Most forces on the rubrail will pushing in and the 3/16 of 6061 threads should lift what's needed. You can always add the rivnut later.

Yep. Not Terrible. Just a little intimidating because these things are expensive and hard to get. I kept putting it off because I've been pretty distracted with a bunch of other issues lately and wanted to be in a good head space so I wouldn't rush or have too many other things going on. But, as you said, the material isn't hard to work with at all.
 
I recently posted a whine about maintaining all our older vehicles. We solved one issue by finally updating my wife's car (a 10 year old, 160K mile BMW X3). Above, I mentioned considering a pivot away from the German SUVs she has had recently back to a Volvo. So, we test drove a 2026 Volvo XC 60 plug-in hybrid. We liked it enough that we bought it.
View attachment 704726
View attachment 704727
Styling is subjective, but we both like the conservative understated looks of the old X3 and the current XC 60. The new Germans seem gaudy to our senses, and over priced. Compared to our X3, the XC 60 is ever so slightly larger and 600lbs heavier. Neither car has communicative steering, but both are precise. Both have adequate brakes. I like the suspension more on the BMW. While the turbo straight 6 in the BMW is a sweet motor, the XC 60 hybrid drivetrain is much quicker. Combined output is an impressive for a grocery getter 455hp/523ft.lbs. which is good for 0-60 in 4.4sec (as fast as my Mustang GT). Gas mileage is also way better with the Volvo. The BMW gets about 21 city and 27 hwy for us (the Mustang gets 15 city/ 24 hwy with a lead footed driver). After 800 miles, the Volvo will give a 40 mile all EV range which means for most daily driving it uses no gas at all. Charging from 0 to full takes under 5 hours with a 220V, 20 amp plug-in. On the hwy, in hybrid mode, we are seeing about 39mpg. The Volvo is also much quieter on the highway and electric/ICE transitions are quite seamless.

Of course, because its new and because its our first hybrid, I had to poke around some. Love that high hood opening:
View attachment 704728
Once the cover is off, except for the orange stuff, a pretty standard modern 2.0L turbo 4 is in view (sort of):
View attachment 704729
This set up uses the 312hp/295ft.lb transverse mounted turbo 4 with an 8 speed transmission for the front axle and a 143hp/228ft.lb direct drive electric motor for the rear axle powered by a 15 kWh battery in what would normally be the trans tunnel. There is also a starter/generator motor between the ICE and transmission which can charge the battery and add some torque when necessary.
View attachment 704730
Underneath its a pretty flat belly:
View attachment 704731
And after pulling the cover, oil changes don’t look hard:
View attachment 704732
Front suspension is multi link with upper wishbone and lower A-arm controlled by a standard strut. Check out the single pot caliper (red circle). The rotor is a fairly large 13.6” with a wide swept area and brakes feel better than one piston might suggest.
View attachment 704735
If you can look past that giant skid plate of a muffler, the rear suspension is interesting. A big fiberglass mono-leaf controlled by conventional shocks. Reminds me of a model-T (or a Corvette).
View attachment 704737
It’s definitely not our old 245 DL wagon, though I think there are some parallels. Time will tell how it holds up.

We have the SC/TC T6 V90 non-XC. Before they switched to the 24V electric turbo config. Great car. Oil changes are easy with a couple tools FCP Euro sells. They also have Liquimoly oil in the correct Volvo spec. The plug in would have been sweet, but we got an awesome deal.

Ignore the dealer and change the oil at 500 miles. Then on 5000 intervals. We haven't had any issues, but wish I'd know that at the start.
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The only issue has been the break pad compound transfering to the rotors on long descents causing severe judder. I finally installed EBC Redstuff plus their slotted rotors and found thatvworks extremely well across our range of temps. After fussing with a replacement by Volvo, and then a replacement with a different ceramic compound I was glad to see that issue resolved. Our gen has very little engine braking.

26774.webp
 
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We have the SC/TC T6 V90 non-XC. Before they switched to the 24V electric turbo config. Great car. Oil changes are easy with a couple tools FCP Euro sells. They also have Liquimoly oil in the correct Volvo spec. The plug in would have been sweet, but we got an awesome deal.

Ignore the dealer and change the oil at 500 miles. Then on 5000 intervals. We haven't had any issues, but wish I'd know that at the start.
View attachment 705123

The only issue has been the break pad compound transfering to the rotors on long descents causing severe judder. I finally installed EBC Redstuff plus their slotted rotors and found thatvworks extremely well across our range of temps. After fussing with a replacement by Volvo, and then a replacement with a different ceramic compound I was glad to see that issue resolved. Our gen has very little engine braking.

View attachment 705124

I have done EBC pads and rotors on several rigs including her old X3 and my tow rig and have been satisfied.
 
Back to the rub rails. Like so many Jeep projects, this one was more complicated than expected. First, I had hoped for a quick bolt on. But I had to trim the passenger side rail to clear the Morryde hinges I’m using as detailed above and the mounting points on Flux’s hardware doesn’t match the holes in my Genright corners. There are 5 mounting points for the rails. Three carriage bolts (yellow zinc coated) and a cap screw on each end. The carriage bolts and cap screw at the back go through simple holes in the tub (and corner armor and in one case the steel stiffener for the armor):
IMG_2899.webp

More drilling than I had hoped but easy enough. The problem turned out to be the front cap screw which goes into a double walled area:
IMG_2891.webp

As I had discussed with @Fluxor and @sab, options would be tap the armor or pull it and put a rivnut/nutsert in the tub. I chose the later so I had to pull the armor (and taillights, and gas filler cap, and tailgate and hinges 🙄). I decided to go this way because I didn’t want drill shavings left between the armor and tub and think MAYBE the rivnut is stronger. It is also an opportunity to clean:
IMG_2858.webp

Anyhow, once I brushed a little Rustoleum into all the new holes to protect the exposed metal, I put the 2 rivnuts in and started the reassembly process. Next I got stalled by my assumption that the hardware with rub rails was 5/16”-18, like my Genright corners and rockers. WRONG. It is, in fact M8x1.25 which is pretty damn close but not the same.
IMG_2888.webp

I started the cap screw into the rivnut on one side and it went in tight and I spun the rivnut which meant I couldn’t get it back out😡. So for reasons unknown, I went over to the other side to check the threads of the other 5/16”-18 rivnut with the supplied M8x1.25 cap screw (I think I was thinking maybe I had damaged the threads of the rivnut when inserting it with too much pressure-I really don’t like rivnuts, btw…). By the time I figured out that side wasn’t going in smoothly, I had spun it too. No pics. Walked away mad to settle down and think about how I was going to get out 2 spun rivnuts with stainless bolts stuck in them, one of which was behind the aluminum rail and armor…

The next week, after cooling off, using the 3/8” or so gap between the 2 pieces of aluminum, I carefully cut the SS bolt between the rail and armor with a 4.5” cut off wheel on a grinder. I put Gorilla tape on both aluminum surfaces so a gentle bounce wouldn’t immediately scar the surfaces. To my surprise, I was able to cut the stainless and get the rail and corner off without damage. Phew! Next, I had to get the rivnuts out, still with stainless bolts or fragments thereof stuck in them (so I couldn’t just drill them out). I did that very carefully with a carbide burr on a dremel tool and was able to salvage the holes for new rivnuts:
IMG_2889.webp

Now, I finally reassembled everything with the rails and new stainless 5/16”-18 cap screws. In addition to the hardware issues, I had to massage the radius on the rails to better match the imperfections of my tub/genright corners. I used my 20T press very carefully and a 3# dead blow. They turned out pretty close:
IMG_2895.webp

IMG_2894.webp

Also, while the armor off, I tried a little more surface prep than I had when I rushed through it before the Sand Hollow trip. These blank corners were a lot more scratched up than the pre-cut ones I had before and sold to @macleanflood. I ended up using brown and then green Scotchbrite in a swirl rather than linear pattern which worked OK. The final product:
IMG_2898.webp

IMG_2900.webp

IMG_2896.webp

IMG_2897.webp

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Back to the rub rails. Like so many Jeep projects, this one was more complicated than expected. First, I had hoped for a quick bolt on. But I had to trim the passenger side rail to clear the Morryde hinges I’m using as detailed above and the mounting points on Flux’s hardware doesn’t match the holes in my Genright corners. There are 5 mounting points for the rails. Three carriage bolts (yellow zinc coated) and a cap screw on each end. The carriage bolts and cap screw at the back go through simple holes in the tub (and corner armor and in one case the steel stiffener for the armor):
View attachment 708499
More drilling than I had hoped but easy enough. The problem turned out to be the front cap screw which goes into a double walled area:
View attachment 708495
As I had discussed with @Fluxor and @sab, options would be tap the armor or pull it and put a rivnut/nutsert in the tub. I chose the later so I had to pull the armor (and taillights, and gas filler cap, and tailgate and hinges 🙄). I decided to go this way because I didn’t want drill shavings left between the armor and tub and think MAYBE the rivnut is stronger. It is also an opportunity the clean:
View attachment 708502
Anyhow, once I brushed a little Rustoleum into all the new holes to protect the exposed metal, I put the 2 rivnuts in and started the reassembly process. Next I got stalled by my assumption that the hardware with rub rails was 5/16”-18, like my Genright corners and rockers. WRONG. It is, in fact M8x1.25 which is pretty damn close but not the same.
View attachment 708506
I started the cap screw into the rivnut on one side and it went in tight and I spun the rivnut which meant I couldn’t get it back out😡. So for reasons unknown, I went over to the other side to check the threads of the other 5/16”-18 rivnut with the supplied M8x1.25 cap screw (I think I was thinking maybe I had damaged the threads of the rivnut when inserting it with too much pressure-I really don’t like rivnuts, btw…). By the time I figured out that side wasn’t going in smoothly, I had spun it too. No pics. Walked away mad to settle down and think about how I was going to get out 2 spun rivnuts with stainless bolts stuck in them, one of which was behind the aluminum rail and armor…

The next week, after cooling off, using the 3/8” or so gap between the 2 pieces of aluminum, I carefully cut the SS bolt between the rail and armor with a 4.5” cut off wheel on a grinder. I put Gorilla tape on both aluminum surfaces so a gentle bounce wouldn’t immediately scar the surfaces. To my surprise, I was able to cut the stainless and get the rail and corner off without damage. Phew! Next, I had to get the rivnuts out, still with stainless bolts or fragments in them (so I couldn’t just drill them out). I did that very carefully with a carbide burr on a dremel tool and was able to salvage the holes for new rivnuts:
View attachment 708513
Now, I finally reassembled everything with the rails and new 5/16”-18 cap screws. In addition to the hardware issues, I had to massage the radius on the rails to better match the imperfections of my tub/genright corners. I used my 20T press very carefully and a 3# dead blow. They turned out pretty close:
View attachment 708519
View attachment 708520
Also, while the armor off, I tried a little more surface prep than I had when I rushed through it before the Sand Hollow trip. These blank corners were a lot more scratched up than the pre-cut ones I had before and sold to @macleanflood. I ended up using brown and then green Scotchbrite in a swirl rather than linear pattern which worked OK. The final product:
View attachment 708524
View attachment 708523
View attachment 708526
View attachment 708525
View attachment 708522

Nice job sticking it out. Pain when it's one step forward and three steps back but you got there and they came out great!

I saved your mods posts for the hinges as I'll deal with that too I've I pick up a set, after I get the armor installed that's been crying itself to sleep for months in my basement. I did a 3D mockup to see what will be needed. I'll combine my analysis with your action. Thanks!
 
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Nice job sticking it out. Pain when it's one step forward and three steps back but you got there and they came out great!

I saved your mods posts for the hinges as I'll deal with that too I've I pick up a set, after I get the armor installed that's been crying itself to sleep for months in my basement. I did a 3D mockup to see what will be needed. I'll combine my analysis with your action. Thanks!

Nice job, Mikey. Turned out well.

Thanks gentlemen. I have to say that walking away and thinking for several days was the right move for me. It turned out better than it otherwise would have, I am sure.