Without a doubt
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I installed the Savvy rear CA's today. I can tell you they ride a ton better than MC's. 🤣 This is my experience. Don't tell me otherwise. 😉 😆 I do like these arms better than the MC's. I can use a crescent wrench on the jam nuts rather than needing a 1.5" crows foot.

My pinion is 21.9* and the shaft is 22.9*.

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I installed the Savvy rear CA's today. I can tell you they ride a ton better than MC's. 🤣 This is my experience. Don't tell me otherwise. 😉 😆 I do like these arms better than the MC's. I can use a crescent wrench on the jam nuts rather than needing a 1.5" crows foot.

My pinion is 21.9* and the shaft is 22.9*.

View attachment 375595

Are you worried about taking out one of those zerk fittings on the rocks?
 
Can you notch the coil bucket to eliminate the shock extension bracket?

They're notched significantly. 🤣 The can down shocks coupled with the 21.9* pinion angle are what is causing the interference. I ditched shock extension brackets with can up Fox shocks at one point, but when those shocks didn't work out I had to get another set of brackets. I could look at it, but I've already taken a big slice off the coil bucket. It might give me slightly more travel if I recall correctly, and my bias is slightly in favor of down travel currently. They'd still be hanging down on stock mounts though! I was implying a more permanent "get out of the rocks" solution (i.e. some of your new build philosophy ideas).
 
@josb612.

The only one hanging down is on the drivers side frame mount. I am not too concerned about it. I'm never going to use them anyway. These joints won't take grease I hear. I'll probably convert it to a needle zerk. Reason I installed it that way was I needed that length initially (as short as they would go). I didn't know it at the time, but I ended up needing to lengthen them to bring the shaft angle down slightly. I could remedy the situation now or just trade it for a needle zerk. I'll probably do the latter. Good eye.
 
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I installed the Savvy rear CA's today. I can tell you they ride a ton better than MC's. 🤣 This is my experience. Don't tell me otherwise. 😉 😆 I do like these arms better than the MC's. I can use a crescent wrench on the jam nuts rather than needing a 1.5" crows foot.

My pinion is 21.9* and the shaft is 22.9*.

View attachment 375595

View attachment 375596

Checked mine and I'm at 21.5 degrees, on the shaft, with 3" springs. Zero vibrations at 80 MPH.

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You're getting close to the point where I was at when I had to clock all the axle brackets to accommodate the savvy tuck. My driveshaft is at 25°.

I had those same extenders, I can't remember what they did to the travel bias, but they were only on for a month or two when we finally moved everything. I know of one other individual who had to do the same thing with his savvy tuck.
 
You're getting close to the point where I was at when I had to clock all the axle brackets to accommodate the savvy tuck. My driveshaft is at 25°.

I had those same extenders, I can't remember what they did to the travel bias, but they were only on for a month or two when we finally moved everything. I know of one other individual who had to do the same thing with his savvy tuck.

It's getting close to time to do something. I can get by, but the little hangy downy things should go. I'm looking at you know what. If I'm going to clock all the axle brackets I might as well go a step further. IDK. Seems like too big a hurdle for me to jump. I may need a pole to vault. LOL.

The extenders slightly decrease the uptravel. That could be good or bad depending on the shock.

I'll see how much time I have after Winter Break. From January on I should have less responsibilities and may be able to pour quite a bit of time into a bigger Jeep project.
 
It's getting close to time to do something. I can get by, but the little hangy downy things should go. I'm looking at you know what. If I'm going to clock all the axle brackets I might as well go a step further. IDK. Seems like too big a hurdle for me to jump. I may need a pole to vault. LOL.

The extenders slightly decrease the uptravel. That could be good or bad depending on the shock.

I'll see how much time I have after Winter Break. From January on I should have less responsibilities and may be able to pour quite a bit of time into a bigger Jeep project.

See what happens before you mow off the control arm brackets. I know we did it to tworley's rear axle years and years ago. But I also can't recall another case where that was needed since then.
 
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See what happens before you mow off the control arm brackets. I know we did it to tworley's rear axle years and years ago. But I also can't recall another case where that was needed since then.

I think I’m ok for now, but because I need a project (hobby), I am looking at doing the midarm. If I make the plunge I will take my time and do it in stages; 1) rear, 2) outboard, 3) front. I am still learning by reading, so I’m not ready to jump in, though sometimes the best way to learn is to jump in while reading.

After that I’d want to stretch. It’s what I think SHOULD happen and no real reason for me on the trails I commonly run.
 
I think I’m ok for now, but because I need a project (hobby), I am looking at doing the midarm. If I make the plunge I will take my time and do it in stages; 1) rear, 2) outboard, 3) front. I am still learning by reading, so I’m not ready to jump in, though sometimes the best way to learn is to jump in while reading.

After that I’d want to stretch. It’s what I think SHOULD happen and no real reason for me on the trails I commonly run.

You're going down that rabbit hole buddy. Ask me how I know. If it was me I'd do the stretch at the same time as the midarm. But I'm no expert.
 
I think I’m ok for now, but because I need a project (hobby), I am looking at doing the midarm. If I make the plunge I will take my time and do it in stages; 1) rear, 2) outboard, 3) front. I am still learning by reading, so I’m not ready to jump in, though sometimes the best way to learn is to jump in while reading.

After that I’d want to stretch. It’s what I think SHOULD happen and no real reason for me on the trails I commonly run.

I did mine the exact same way. Rear mid arm, rear mid arm again. Front 3 link. Outboard, now stretch and redesign the rear again. You will be entertained for years
 
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You're going down that rabbit hole buddy. Ask me how I know. If it was me I'd do the stretch at the same time as the midarm. But I'm no expert.

I could do it that way. The way I was thinking of doing it is cut the frame fore of the midarm brackets and that way I can just move everything back . Then cut the same amount off the back of the frame. Then everything would still be in it’s relative position.
 
I could do it that way. The way I was thinking of doing it is cut the frame fore of the midarm brackets and that way I can just move everything back . Then cut the same amount off the back of the frame. Then everything would still be in it’s relative position.

Yes, you could do it that way and then you have the experience of what it's like at 94" and then 100" or whatever length you decide to go for.
As has been talked about before the nice thing about doing the stretch with the midarm at the same time then the rear brackets do cover one joint.
And yes, what you are saying is what I did. I moved my arch back 4.5" and I cut that amount off my rear frame and then welded the crossmember back on. I moved my rear axle back approx 5".