Tier 1, INKZALLs are the bomb
Milwaukee 48-22-3170 INKZALL Red Fine Point Markers, Red
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011DGS8R6/?tag=wranglerorg-20
05 Flame Red TJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
Tier 1, INKZALLs are the bomb
Milwaukee 48-22-3170 INKZALL Red Fine Point Markers, Red
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011DGS8R6/?tag=wranglerorg-20
That’s doable. @starkey fabbed up the front panel armor, which is what I’d do. It’s on my radar. If I do I may as well paint the rest of the Jeep!
Right now on my agenda is doing the rear frame tuck, adding a 10mm spacer on the rear passenger coil to level out the rig, and fix the gas fill cut off valve.
Thanks for the kind words and ideas.
Dude - that looks awesome! Great work!
Now it’s all set for its second roll over!
Thanks Dude! Another skill set to add to the docket. It was interesting, challenging, and a bit nerve racking.
Watching your sewing skill set grow with great interest.
See the attached files for Auto Paint Procedures. These procedures are specific to the paints I used, but they are fairly common:
SprayMax 1K Self-Etch Prime
Lumabase Basecoat (Polyester)
2K ClearCoat (4:1)
I am not a professional, so paint at your own risk. I wrote this for the average DIY'er who wants to give this a shot, so I added a lot of things people assume (but I didn't add everything, especially as it relates to compressor requirements for an HVLP spray gun, inline moisture filters, and inline regulators). My total cost was about $350 for all tools and materials to paint the rear corner armor, tailgate armor and A-Pillar armor. Now I have the tools to paint other things if I want.
SprayMax 1K Self-Etch Prime
Lumabase Basecoat (Polyester)
2K ClearCoat (4:1)
I am not a professional, so paint at your own risk. I wrote this for the average DIY'er who wants to give this a shot, so I added a lot of things people assume (but I didn't add everything, especially as it relates to compressor requirements for an HVLP spray gun, inline moisture filters, and inline regulators). My total cost was about $350 for all tools and materials to paint the rear corner armor, tailgate armor and A-Pillar armor. Now I have the tools to paint other things if I want.
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Thanks for this! Definitely keeping it on hand as I needto paint various things
The raw aluminum would look really good with your color TJ. It would make it look really unique. The aluminum can grow on you a bit too. For me they are highly functional too. They are strong, they are light, they stop some of the crap from flying up the side, and they won’t rust.
UKTJ
TJ Addict
Sorry, missed this post before. Looking really sweet!
Might be the angle of the picture, might be the different fenders, but it looks to me that the front has been stretched out a bit based on where the front wheel is relative to the bumper. Have you pushed the front out at all, or is it my aging eyes?
No forward stretch. I do have it as forward as I can for clearances, but the limits are still there. Hopefully your eyes aren’t aging. I know mine are. I have to move the phone farther away to read the screen and my watch.
I hate the button head bolts that they use with the JCR sliders. First thing I hate is having to use an Allen Wrench to get them off. Second thing I hate is when you screw them in they mess up the paint on the slider and when winter comes the paint chips away and they rust.
Since my corner, tailgate, and under armor all use Philips #4 82* conical countersunk in 5/16-18, I decided to countersink the bolts on the outer tub and top of slider with the same bolts. These are stainless 316 from McMaster, but I plan to eventually paint them black with 2K clear so everything looks clean.
Since my corner, tailgate, and under armor all use Philips #4 82* conical countersunk in 5/16-18, I decided to countersink the bolts on the outer tub and top of slider with the same bolts. These are stainless 316 from McMaster, but I plan to eventually paint them black with 2K clear so everything looks clean.
I can’t seem to get away from people who own machine shops or fab shops.
I met a guy about a few months ago and we hit it off. Come to find out his family owns Alcobra. That’s our retail metal supply house in Spokane (and now CdA due to the retail supplier over there closing the retail portion). When I told him I loved Alcobra, great people, he was interested. At the time I didn’t know he owned it. I just thought he worked there bc of his Alcobra jacket. He asked several questions about my experiences there, which have all been really good. He was really encouraged. Told me to stop by sometime. I went by today to get some more aluminum for a project. He showed me all around! Showed me their CNC mill and a hand mill. A guy was making 7075 piccatini rails. Even drove me over to the production site where they have a water jet and a laser cutting machine. He showed me some stuff they were making and explained 6061 vs 7075. He was also interested in how I started getting into fabbing stuff and spent some time looking over the Jeep and at some pics of our Moab trip. He loved it! I told him I was interested in building some CA’s for a midarm out if 7075 and asked if they could tap them. He said, draw it up! We’ll go back and forth a few times with design details and when it’s right we’ll get them made. Really cool! Looks like I’m eventually on my way to a new phase in the build.
I met a guy about a few months ago and we hit it off. Come to find out his family owns Alcobra. That’s our retail metal supply house in Spokane (and now CdA due to the retail supplier over there closing the retail portion). When I told him I loved Alcobra, great people, he was interested. At the time I didn’t know he owned it. I just thought he worked there bc of his Alcobra jacket. He asked several questions about my experiences there, which have all been really good. He was really encouraged. Told me to stop by sometime. I went by today to get some more aluminum for a project. He showed me all around! Showed me their CNC mill and a hand mill. A guy was making 7075 piccatini rails. Even drove me over to the production site where they have a water jet and a laser cutting machine. He showed me some stuff they were making and explained 6061 vs 7075. He was also interested in how I started getting into fabbing stuff and spent some time looking over the Jeep and at some pics of our Moab trip. He loved it! I told him I was interested in building some CA’s for a midarm out if 7075 and asked if they could tap them. He said, draw it up! We’ll go back and forth a few times with design details and when it’s right we’ll get them made. Really cool! Looks like I’m eventually on my way to a new phase in the build.
Not that I disagree with your sentiment about the button heads tearing paint up...But I don't understand how a flat head will be any better? It has MORE surface area that will damage the paint under itself than the button head does. My solution was a washer under the button head...
It looks like he also needs to run the countersink a little more - these should all be sitting flush if countersinking is the goal.
I think the conical are less damaging to paint surfaces. At least that’s been my experience. The seating in the cone is less abrasive. I had a washer under the button head too, but my main reason was I wanted #4 as my fastener for the visible portion of the tub. When I was doing the fenders I must have taken the sliders off five times. Got so tired of removing the button heads.
@Mike_H. The surface area underneath is greater, but doesn’t that mean the load is spread out more? And doesn’t that mean less damage?
Yeah, he does need to. The cobalt bits wear really fast on steel and they’re $23 a pop. Still happier with this approach overall for both looks and convenience.
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Did you use cutting oil? Working on my custom sliders that stuff seems to make a huge difference vs my old way of just powering through
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Did you use cutting oil? Working on my custom sliders that stuff seems to make a huge difference vs my old way of just powering through
Yes, and cutting oil has helped preserve my bits much better than before I knew better. Slowing down and trying to get the perfect speed and pressure has also been a huge gain.
Drilling these conicals is a little odd, especially on the holes that are almost impeding the drill either by the step or the side of the tub or the door sill. I’m going to remove the step for easier access to finish up. Didn’t really want to do that, but it won’t kill me.
Looking forward to seeing the custom sliders!