I’d like to hear how those engine mounts workout. They look to be above the factory mount from what I’ve seen also. I intend to try them unless I hear otherwise.

What about the hooker headers? Thoughts?
If they fit, I would use them. I've heard some people use the Novak headers, some use the factory manifolds... I was going to cross the bridge when I get to it. I have a friend who has the novak ones on his shelf so I can test fit before I order.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Apparition
1) what front 3-link? Savvy goes up into the area that those brackets occupy.

2) check the cam characteristics. Choppy isn't fun crawling.

3) 2.72 or 3:1 isn't going to be the same in mine vs yours since our engines have different outputs. I'd look into a jk 4:1 for yours.
1) My 3 link is all custom. The upper-link on the axle sits low and behind the truss. Pretty close to the level of the factory mount.
2) Feedback is great if anyone has used their cams... they claim they have a very smooth idle and no loss below 2k
3) I'll look into the JK 4:1 before I order the adapters

Much thanks!

edit.
here's what I mean by low and behind the truss. You can see the tabs for the factory mount. The truss was a Clayton, and I shaved about an inch off of it to tuck things in. The bolt is pretty close to where it would have been in the factory location, maintaining factory separation. I don't really know what the savvy kit does. Upper and lower links are the same lengths for zero caster changes during suspension cycles.
IMG_20190415_111342.jpg

1
 
Last edited:
The 6l80e and standalone wiring harness arrived yesterday. Zero gravity has been a pleasure to work with. The transmission arrived well before promised, was well packaged, and looks fantastic. If the same care has been given to the internals I'm expecting a very good transmission. Zero gravity performance has been very responsive to phone and email correspondence. Very refreshing.

PXL_20210716_195806855.jpg
 
I'm going to throw another shout-out to Jim at Zero Gravity Performance. I had sent him an email informing him that the transmission and harness had arrived and that I really liked the paint he used to finish it. Today this arrived in the mail... Without being asked, Jim sent me a can of the paint he uses so I can paint the transfer case to match.

If anyone is looking to have a transmission rebuilt, or is just buying a new or rebuilt one (he can get you a brand new one for 1k more) consider contacting Jim at Zero Gravity Performance. It's worth a little extra money.


PXL_20210722_232537709.jpg
 
A few day ago on @Chris build thread, they were discussing V8 swaps. Blaine had posted...

"I don't know of any LS swap that was done that did not have a range of issues that needed to be sorted, dealt with, trouble shot, and resolved over about a year's time after it was up and running.

They range from overheating, electrical issues, gauges not right, not running right, trans shifting like dogshit, etc.

If anyone knows of any individual who has nailed a swap in very short order and has a reasonably tolerable standard of how stuff should be, I would like to chat with them.

Be aware that I have nothing against LS swaps at all. I have lots of issues with doing something that takes so long to get dialed in or get left to be crappy and just put up with. That and most I know of don't make the AC work which ain't gonna fly in Chris's world."


So this got me thinking about the common issues, and how to approach them.


Overheating. I'm on the side of the fence that the TJ's cooling package is just barely adequate for the standard 4.0 and 30-inch tires. Any inefficiencies can cause the system to slip into... inadequate very quickly. It's not going to get better with a larger engine. A radiator swap is required just to make it work.

I chose to go with a superior radiator since I haven't heard anything bad about them. There is a built-in trans cooler that the website claims is "bigger". I've purchased their fan and shroud kit as well. This (the fan) can be upgraded later if needed. I've also considered using a mechanical fan from an early 5.3 and TJ shroud. It seems I've read somewhere that you can make the factory TJ fan shroud work. If there is room, I'm going to consider this as an option.

It seems that the area available for cooling is just not very big. There is the radiator and AC condenser fighting to keep things cool, so I'm thinking of placing an auxiliary cooler behind the bumper, under the winch plate with its own cooling fan. I've chosen this location because it will have plenty of cool air. The radiator trans cooler will still be utilized so if the under-bumper setup fails, there is still a backup. Maybe taking some of that heat from in front of the cooling package might help a little.

Hood vents and, fender vents will help with underhood temps.

Electrical Issues & Gauges. I'm not even fucking with old wiring. A new standalone harness, complete with all new wires and all-new connectors is handling this task. Mine is from PSI. A few bits of factory harness will remain to control the basics, like headlights, signals, HVAC, etc, but the rest is being removed. That also means the factory ECU is coming out. The Jeep will be running a set of aftermarket gauges. Simple is best here. speedhut makes a set of gauges that get their info directly from the GM ECU. The Speedo will be a GPS-driven unit.

Not running right. I've decided to keep things as close to factory Silverado as I can. Same transmission, truck exhaust manifolds, truck intake, truck accessory drive, factory camshaft. The trucks this engine came out of are incredibly reliable so the closer to stock it stays, the better. A wild tune, aftermarket camshaft, mismatched intakes, and mismatched pullies are all a recipe for unreliability. The 315 HP the engine left the factory with will have to do.

Trans not shifting right. I'm at the mercy of others here. Hopefully, zero gravity knows what they are doing.

Air conditioning. I can't imagine going this far with a build, then losing interest before the AC is done. This part doesn't seem very daunting to me. GM compressor, Jeep everything else. I'm going to be replacing all the old stuff with new stuff. The condenser is beat to shit from decades of rocks being thrown at it, and since it sits in front of the radiator, it might add to cooling issues. Past that it's just custom lines.

This is my plan of attack so I don't spend years chasing down issues or worse yet live with a shit build.
 
Last edited:
I look forward to seeing your swap. If I had the time and money to make it work right, I probably would.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kmas0n
A few day ago on @Chris build thread, they were discussing V8 swaps. Blaine had posted...

"I don't know of any LS swap that was done that did not have a range of issues that needed to be sorted, dealt with, trouble shot, and resolved over about a year's time after it was up and running.

They range from overheating, electrical issues, gauges not right, not running right, trans shifting like dogshit, etc.

If anyone knows of any individual who has nailed a swap in very short order and has a reasonably tolerable standard of how stuff should be, I would like to chat with them.

Be aware that I have nothing against LS swaps at all. I have lots of issues with doing something that takes so long to get dialed in or get left to be crappy and just put up with. That and most I know of don't make the AC work which ain't gonna fly in Chris's world."


So this got me thinking about the common issues, and how to approach them.


Overheating. I'm on the side of the fence that the TJ's cooling package is just barely adequate for the standard 4.0 and 30-inch tires. Any inefficiencies can cause the system to slip into... inadequate very quickly. It's not going to get better with a larger engine. A radiator swap is required just to make it work.

I chose to go with a superior radiator since I haven't heard anything bad about them. There is a built-in trans cooler that the website claims is "bigger". I've purchased their fan and shroud kit as well. This (the fan) can be upgraded later if needed. I've also considered using a mechanical fan from an early 5.3 and TJ shroud. It seems I've read somewhere that you can make the factory TJ fan shroud work. If there is room, I'm going to consider this as an option.

It seems that the area available for cooling is just not very big. There is the radiator and AC condenser fighting to keep things cool, so I'm thinking of placing an auxiliary cooler behind the bumper, under the winch plate with its own cooling fan. I've chosen this location because it will have plenty of cool air. The radiator trans cooler will still be utilized so if the under-bumper setup fails, there is still a backup. Maybe taking some of that heat from in front of the cooling package might help a little.

Hood vents and, fender vents will help with underhood temps.

Electrical Issues & Gauges. I'm not even fucking with old wiring. A new standalone harness, complete with all new wires and all-new connectors is handling this task. Mine is from PSI. A few bits of factory harness will remain to control the basics, like headlights, signals, HVAC, etc, but the rest is being removed. That also means the factory ECU is coming out. The Jeep will be running a set of aftermarket gauges. Simple is best here. speedhut makes a set of gauges that get their info directly from the GM ECU. The Speedo will be a GPS-driven unit.

Not running right. I've decided to keep things as close to factory Silverado as I can. Same transmission, truck exhaust manifolds, truck intake, truck accessory drive, factory camshaft. The trucks this engine came out of are incredibly reliable so the closer to stock it stays, the better. A wild tune, aftermarket camshaft, mismatched intakes, and mismatched pullies are all a recipe for unreliability. The 315 HP the engine left the factory with will have to do.

Trans not shifting right. I'm at the mercy of others here. Hopefully, zero gravity knows what they are doing.

Air conditioning. I can't imagine going this far with a build, then losing interest before the AC is done. This part doesn't seem very daunting to me. GM compressor, Jeep everything else. I'm going to be replacing all the old stuff with new stuff. The condenser is beat to shit from decades of rocks being thrown at it, and since it sits in front of the radiator, it might add to cooling issues. Past that it's just custom lines.

This is my plan of attack so I don't spend years chasing down issues or worse yet live with a shit build.
Any idea why Superior Radiator says their radiators are only good for up to 2005 TJ's?
 
Block is cleaned, painted, polished. Replaced seals etc. Everything looks clean inside. The hash marks are still on the cylinder walls. Bearing surfaces look good. No coke or build up. I've replaced water pump, ps pump, alternator, tensioners, pulleys etc. Cleaned and polished the accessory drive brackets. I've done everything that I want to the block. Now it's time to start disassembling the TJ

PXL_20210729_153510428.jpg


PXL_20210725_212058494.jpg
 
I took the 4.0 for one last spin. It's been a great engine. Not exactly inspiring, but it got the job done. I drove around town clicking smoothly through the gears, the last spin with this AX15 too. Parked it in the garage and took a few pics for Nostalgia's sake.

The next time it comes out of the garage it's going to be a very different machine. It's also going to be a hard few months.

PXL_20210730_004056589_2.jpg


PXL_20210730_004436678_2.jpg
 
I took the 4.0 for one last spin. It's been a great engine. Not exactly inspiring, but it got the job done. I drove around town clicking smoothly through the gears, the last spin with this AX15 too. Parked it in the garage and took a few pics for Nostalgia's sake.

The next time it comes out of the garage it's going to be a very different machine. It's also going to be a hard few months.

View attachment 268082

View attachment 268083
Yep - I remember that last ride when I did mine. Serene.
 
Its an enormous amount of work, but the entire driveline, exhaust, fuel system, and braking system have been removed.
The brake line routing is being modified, the fuel system is being converted to AN lines so it all had to go. The tank has been dropped to facility the "butt crack delete".

Its so close to being a full frame off restoration at this point.... why not?



PXL_20210806_152018307.jpg


PXL_20210806_163743777.jpg


PXL_20210806_173139938.jpg
 
On another note, I ordered a new Evaporator, Heater Core, and Condenser from Performance Radiator. I've read that the quality of the heater cores is decent and since it's nearly impossible to find a Mopar one, I just went with the whole climate control system. Only time will tell if it's any good.

But check this out... I ordered everything yesterday afternoon and it was delivered first thing this morning... Literally 12 hours from clicking "buy" to delivery. Suck it Bezos
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Farmergreg
If you don't have it already, the Eastwood tube flaring tool is actually a pretty quality product, I don't normally like a lot of their stuff. I have it with the AN die head and it worked very well on my 3/8" stainless AN hard lines for my fuel system.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kmas0n
Is that mount going to clear the upper control arm at full bump? Looks close in the picture, but hard to tell.
 
Is that mount going to clear the upper control arm at full bump? Looks close in the picture, but hard to tell.
One of the reasons I'm choose the blackheart mounts is that they weld to to factory motor mount brackets, and don't hang any lower than factory. So if the suspension worked with the 4.0, then the new motor mounts won't have any interference. I'm worried about the engine itself getting in the way. I'll get it mocked up soon.

At full bump, with 2" of bump stop extension, there's plenty of room...
PXL_20210808_140030127.jpg


With only 1 inch of bump stop extension its pretty tight, less than 1/8"...
PXL_20210808_140320426.jpg


This is good info for the future in case I decide to eventually fabricate a hoop for coilovers. Currently my shocks dictate 2" of bump stop extension. And tires hitting fenders, but I'll be addressing that
 
Last edited: