Flat fender options

Something like this. If mine has 35s and the same bump stops after raising the shocks, the driver's side would be mashed hard into the rear wall.

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Wheels turned from the opposite side, but this shows the tire is very well stuffed.
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I’ve done similar obstacles with no rubbing, you’ll have to take my word on it and I’ll shoot you some pictures of my inner fenders.
 
This is an obstacle called the golden crack as your drivers rear starts to climb the other side you turn full lock driver to avoid grounding your tub on the right rear.
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I’ve done similar obstacles with no rubbing, you’ll have to take my word on it and I’ll shoot you some pictures of my inner fenders.

The key is the bump stops and the upper shock mount positioning. It yours don't rub with 35s, it's because the bumps are longer than mine.
 
The key is the bump stops and the upper shock mount positioning. It yours don't rub with 35s, it's because the bumps are longer than mine.
I think the point you tried to make earlier was there is no more clearance with flat fenders than stock and I disagree with that as I don't rub with flat fenders where I did with stock
 
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I thought the Poison Spider fenders move the rear of the wheel well back. That's why you need to move the battery mount and remove the entire fender, unlike most that you just cut the top of the OE fender off.
 
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I thought the Poison Spider fenders move the rear of the wheel well back. That's why you need to move the battery mount and remove the entire fender, unlike most that you just cut the top of the OE fender off.

Depends on model. On their XC series I measured and I want to say it moved the back wall 2" or maybe just a scosh less. Their "defender" series reuse the stock inner fender.
 
I thought the Poison Spider fenders move the rear of the wheel well back. That's why you need to move the battery mount and remove the entire fender, unlike most that you just cut the top of the OE fender off.
It is true, it moves the rear of the fenders back a bit. Had to cut about an inch off my abs mount tray to make it fit during my install. Apart from that i didnt have to do anything to the inner fenders but it did pull them back at a bit more of an angle.
 
You also aren’t running 35’s
Correct. My 33s just start to scrub the rear wall at full flex full lock. 35s would dig in further along with the upper lip, unless I added bump stop which I want to avoid. MCEs would solve the problem of the upper lip, bit not the rear wall.
 
Correct. My 33s just start to scrub the rear wall at full flex full lock. 35s would dig in further along with the upper lip, unless I added bump stop which I want to avoid. MCEs would solve the problem of the upper lip, bit not the rear wall.
Aren’t you running wheel spacers? Spacers, Wheel BS and offset, as you know contribute to rear and inner sidewall/tread conflicts
 
Aren’t you running wheel spacers? Spacers, Wheel BS and offset, as you know contribute to rear and inner sidewall/tread conflicts

My backspacing and tire combo is going to be comparable to a fairly common 33x12.5 on 4"ish BS.
 
MCE Flat Fenders not flares. ...

They are flares or call them flexible fenders if needed. It doesn't matter either way. They do what they do and your setup is somewhat unusual in that you took advantage of their ability to move with the rising tire. I like MCE's quite a bit, btw. They are an option I am looking at for mine.

.... What is it you are doing while sitting behind the wheel (steering wheel) that you are at full bump and full lock? If it did rub how hard would it rub? How long would you be in this position before the dynamics would change?

Driving over a big rock and the amount of distance it takes to do that. I've been there more than a few times.

Again, the important details here are the bump stops, shocks, tire size and how those fit together. My front bumps are set so that my relocated 11" shocks reach full compression at the same point just before the 3 link truss smashes the oil pan, which happens to match 33s under stock fenders that barely scrub at full flex full steering lock. The result is about 1.5" bump stop extension with 6" of up. A larger tire requires either more bump or more room. More bump messes with my available shock travel unless I change the mounts again.
 
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They are flares or call them flexible fenders if needed. It doesn't matter either way. They do what they do and your setup is somewhat unusual in that you took advantage of their ability to move with the rising tire. I like MCE's quite a bit, btw. They are an option I am looking at for mine.



Driving over a big rock and the amount of distance it takes to do that. I've been there more than a few times.

Again, the important details here are the bump stops, shocks, tire size and how those fit together. My front bumps are set so that my relocated 11" shocks reach full compression at the same point just before the 3 link truss smashes the oil pan, which happens to match 33s under stock fenders that barely scrub at full flex full steering lock. The result is about 1.5" bump stop extension with 6" of up. A larger tire requires either more bump or more room. More bump messes with my available shock travel unless I change the mounts again.
What if you ran MCEs with a custom inner fender? Sounds easier than I'm sure it would be to fit it, but it may solve some of the challenges your looking at
 
What if you ran MCEs with a custom inner fender? Sounds easier than I'm sure it would be to fit it, but it may solve some of the challenges your looking at

It's an option and something I've been thinking about. Somewhere in my build thread I talk about it.
 
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I run MCE'S and have 35's I also have the same front shock combo as @jjvw. With 3.5" of back space. But I rub the rear of my fender at full lock and full bump pretty hard and that's with an extra 1/2" of bumpstop over what he runs. The larger issue isn't so much the sheet metal as the bolt head that holds the inner fender to the abs tray. I removed that bolt and replaced it with a button head Allen so it wouldn't tear up the tire in that situation
 
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My eventual plan is to cut the sheet metal along the inner edge of the mce fender and massage the inner fender back in order to gain back that 1/2" of bump stop.
 
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That will require relocating alot of the parts under the hood similar to what a highline would require. Maybe this winter...
 
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