Your concerns are valid Squatch. That shit is caustic in the long term. Protective measures are a smart move.
MiRustyjeep
- Thread starter Mike_H
- Start date
Thanks, man. The older I get, the more stuff like that seems to matter to me. Like most of us, I was indestructible in my youth. Not so much, anymore!
OP
I'd do a base/clear. The acrylics are OK, but not as tough. Plus, if you get scratches and stuff from wheelin, you can always polish a clear layer.I was just reading that some brands of paints are worse than others in how heavily they can affect you. Some painters are going so far as to say that the charcoal filtered masks won't help, and that only a fresh air supply system will work. Of course, these are the guys doing it for a living.
The last truck I painted (in the mid-80s) was with an acrylic enamel. Maybe I will just stick to that.
Regarding the mask...I think the paint I used recommended a fresh air supply too, but like you said, for a guy doing it all day, every day. I have a couple of these around
Mask
And I have the pink P100 cartridges for it. Basically, when I wear this thing, I can't smell the paint fumes, so I figure I'm good for the few times I put a gun in my hand.
OP
Well, this is something I never want to do again...EVER!
Full noico treatment. It made a big difference, just tapping on the tub. I'd imagine it's going to make a huge difference while driving.
Full noico treatment. It made a big difference, just tapping on the tub. I'd imagine it's going to make a huge difference while driving.
OP
Finished the last of my fab work today! I think I'm gonna make it!
The last of my fab work was figuring out how to attach these dumb JCR sliders. At the time I bought them, I didn't really know better and thought they were comparable to savvy. But I got them for about 200 dollars cheaper because of a good sale at 4wp.com, so I went JCR.
Well... They kinda suck. I mean, they'll do the job. They are plenty strong. They just aren't designed all that well. The backer is a flat piece that sits against the tub and the slider portion is a "step" that is boat-sided and wraps underneath to the torque boxes. JCRs installation calls for drilling 4, 1/2" holes through the torque boxes and the floor, and 5 through the sides of the tub. Three under the doors, and one through each through the flares (front and rear). I was never really happy with this arrangement, and having a brand new tub gave me an opportunity to "fix" it.
I started by preloading the sliders, like you would with a savvy slider. They don't have any over bend built in, but I wanted it to be tight when I started drilling a bunch of holes.
This was the first time I noticed a BIG issue with these sliders. The torque boxes raise up about 3/8" after the middle body mount. My sliders only have a 3/16" spacer welded on. So, pressing them tight to the tub meant the sliders didn't fit parallel to the door. That's just not acceptable. So, I added some spacers to get the fit right.
Then I started drilling holes...I added a few to the sides of the tub. Two each at the front and rear, under the flares. I didn't want a chance of the fender or slider tearing away from each other. I made sure I have a 5/16" bolt every 6" minimum.
Along the bottom, I added 10 nutserts to the bottom torque box. Again, every 6 inches and staggered.
Finally, I had to add some material to space out the slider from the tub. I found some old 3/8" bar stick at work that I liberated, and welded it in place.
Quick shot of paint, and ready to install.
This was a ton of work. In short, just buy Savvy sliders. These will work, they are mounted securely, and will protect my tub. But... So much extra work.
In other news...I got my seatbelts, roll bars, and center console in today.
I also did another thing...
They are actually a buddy's. He has a Cherokee he's parting, so I figured I'd see how the 35s fit and what it's like wheeling with them (assuming I don't have to compromise to much uptravel).
The last of my fab work was figuring out how to attach these dumb JCR sliders. At the time I bought them, I didn't really know better and thought they were comparable to savvy. But I got them for about 200 dollars cheaper because of a good sale at 4wp.com, so I went JCR.
Well... They kinda suck. I mean, they'll do the job. They are plenty strong. They just aren't designed all that well. The backer is a flat piece that sits against the tub and the slider portion is a "step" that is boat-sided and wraps underneath to the torque boxes. JCRs installation calls for drilling 4, 1/2" holes through the torque boxes and the floor, and 5 through the sides of the tub. Three under the doors, and one through each through the flares (front and rear). I was never really happy with this arrangement, and having a brand new tub gave me an opportunity to "fix" it.
I started by preloading the sliders, like you would with a savvy slider. They don't have any over bend built in, but I wanted it to be tight when I started drilling a bunch of holes.
This was the first time I noticed a BIG issue with these sliders. The torque boxes raise up about 3/8" after the middle body mount. My sliders only have a 3/16" spacer welded on. So, pressing them tight to the tub meant the sliders didn't fit parallel to the door. That's just not acceptable. So, I added some spacers to get the fit right.
Then I started drilling holes...I added a few to the sides of the tub. Two each at the front and rear, under the flares. I didn't want a chance of the fender or slider tearing away from each other. I made sure I have a 5/16" bolt every 6" minimum.
Along the bottom, I added 10 nutserts to the bottom torque box. Again, every 6 inches and staggered.
Finally, I had to add some material to space out the slider from the tub. I found some old 3/8" bar stick at work that I liberated, and welded it in place.
Quick shot of paint, and ready to install.
This was a ton of work. In short, just buy Savvy sliders. These will work, they are mounted securely, and will protect my tub. But... So much extra work.
In other news...I got my seatbelts, roll bars, and center console in today.
I also did another thing...
They are actually a buddy's. He has a Cherokee he's parting, so I figured I'd see how the 35s fit and what it's like wheeling with them (assuming I don't have to compromise to much uptravel).
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OP
Got most of the interior back together over the last couple days. I still have to finish my stereo. I'm waiting on a crimp and ferrule set to make my install a little cleaner. I also have to finish routing wires for my CB radio and the antenna for Sat radio.
But, I got the bedrug installed. That stuff is really nice. Well, Its really nice compared to the crap I pulled out. Its a lot softer than I expected too...I was expecting something more like indoor outdoor carpet (very plasticy feeling) but this stuff feels like honest to goodness carpet. Its not quite as molded as I expected, so it looks just a little sloppy in a couple corners, but overall, it looks really nice and I'm happy with it.
I also finished installing the roll bar padding and covers. I think I've installed and taken off the seatbelts 3-5 times now!
I have a week until I leave for Drummond. What do I have left to do on the jeep?
-Cycle Suspension. Since I added a 3/4" spacer to my springs, relocated rear upper perches, and bought new shocks, I need to cycle suspension and add bumpstop (I'm thinking about an inch per corner). I will also need to adjust my pinion angles
-Install winch and bumper. This will be easy, I hope. Its already been installed before, so I just need to put the wires back on. Only difference is my new front bumper and the winch is MUCH closer to my grill shell. The wire should fit.
-Start engine and check fluids.
-Make the final connections for my new license plate light and third brake light. This will require removing the evap pump.
-Finish installing amp and button up the rest of the interior
-Re-install my engine skid (easy)
- Re-install locker pumps
Fix damaged wiring to front locker sensor (optional)
Sand and polish drivers side of tub (its still sitting at 600 grit from fixing my screwed up clear) - optional
Align doors - they close, but they aren't great.
DRIVE IT - Hopefully I can get a few miles on before my trip.
That is it...doesn't look too bad. The most time consuming item on that list is cycling the suspension. I will be pretty tied up this weekend though...Have to do some yard work so I have 10 yards of top soil being delivered and I have a tractor rented. I'm splitting the tractor with a buddy, so we have to do some work at his house too. Luckily we have it for two days, so I should have some time to play jeeps too.
What an exhausting 2.5 months.
But, I got the bedrug installed. That stuff is really nice. Well, Its really nice compared to the crap I pulled out. Its a lot softer than I expected too...I was expecting something more like indoor outdoor carpet (very plasticy feeling) but this stuff feels like honest to goodness carpet. Its not quite as molded as I expected, so it looks just a little sloppy in a couple corners, but overall, it looks really nice and I'm happy with it.
I also finished installing the roll bar padding and covers. I think I've installed and taken off the seatbelts 3-5 times now!
I have a week until I leave for Drummond. What do I have left to do on the jeep?
-Cycle Suspension. Since I added a 3/4" spacer to my springs, relocated rear upper perches, and bought new shocks, I need to cycle suspension and add bumpstop (I'm thinking about an inch per corner). I will also need to adjust my pinion angles
-Install winch and bumper. This will be easy, I hope. Its already been installed before, so I just need to put the wires back on. Only difference is my new front bumper and the winch is MUCH closer to my grill shell. The wire should fit.
-Start engine and check fluids.
-Make the final connections for my new license plate light and third brake light. This will require removing the evap pump.
-Finish installing amp and button up the rest of the interior
-Re-install my engine skid (easy)
- Re-install locker pumps
Fix damaged wiring to front locker sensor (optional)
Sand and polish drivers side of tub (its still sitting at 600 grit from fixing my screwed up clear) - optional
Align doors - they close, but they aren't great.
DRIVE IT - Hopefully I can get a few miles on before my trip.
That is it...doesn't look too bad. The most time consuming item on that list is cycling the suspension. I will be pretty tied up this weekend though...Have to do some yard work so I have 10 yards of top soil being delivered and I have a tractor rented. I'm splitting the tractor with a buddy, so we have to do some work at his house too. Luckily we have it for two days, so I should have some time to play jeeps too.
What an exhausting 2.5 months.
OP
well, I have been thrashing the last couple days. Everything is assembled. Doors are lined up, winch is installed, fluids are topped up and the battery is charged. Started cycling the suspension today and took a major left turn. When I tried to compress the axle, I had a MAJOR collision between the track bar and the Savvy skid flange. I think others have as well. I think @JMT struggled. Here is where I started with my interference. Pretty Major. Leaving it here would have require something like 4.5" of bumpstop. On an 8" travel shock...that just isn't going to work.
I was freaking out a little bit. I have a big deadline looming over me and I did NOT need this. I spun my wheels a little bit but then I tried something a bit unorthadox. I unbolted my axle side of the trackbar and re-bolted to the back side of the relocation bracket. Then I cycled the suspension...and it cleared!
Obviously, I can't run the trackbar like this. So...what to do. I didn't really want to sacrifice the JKS bracket, just in case. That is plan B. So, I made a new bracket...I thought I was done with Fab work, but apparently not.
Patterning the JKS piece, I got some 3/16 flat stock that was leftover from my bumper project. I cut a strip the width of the tallest section of the JKS bracket, then put two "score" lines in it with my cut-off wheel to work as a fold line. I folded the bracket up and welded the corners in and Voila! A new bracket
I tacked it in position and cycled the suspension.
Plenty of clearance now! I might even be able to slide my axle back a half inch or so...
I have about an inch of shock shaft still showing, so I may re-install my bar pin eliminators and gain that inch back in droop...we'll see. A buddy of mine, who is a weldor by trade, is coming over tomorrow to help with some yardwork...he's gonna do some welding for me too...I don't want to be the guy permanently burning in a trackbar bracket. Too Risky for my blood. I'm getting better with the welder...but I'm not confident in my ability for that yet.
Tomorrow, I'm spreading 10 yards of topsoil and pulling out some pine stumps. I have a small tractor rented with a bucket and backhoe, so hopefully, this project only takes my a few hours. I really need to get the front suspension cycled and verify bumps (by the tape, I'll need to add an inch). I NEED to drive this thing sunday, to feel confident dragging it 300 miles up north for a wheelin trip next week.
I was freaking out a little bit. I have a big deadline looming over me and I did NOT need this. I spun my wheels a little bit but then I tried something a bit unorthadox. I unbolted my axle side of the trackbar and re-bolted to the back side of the relocation bracket. Then I cycled the suspension...and it cleared!
Obviously, I can't run the trackbar like this. So...what to do. I didn't really want to sacrifice the JKS bracket, just in case. That is plan B. So, I made a new bracket...I thought I was done with Fab work, but apparently not.
Patterning the JKS piece, I got some 3/16 flat stock that was leftover from my bumper project. I cut a strip the width of the tallest section of the JKS bracket, then put two "score" lines in it with my cut-off wheel to work as a fold line. I folded the bracket up and welded the corners in and Voila! A new bracket
I tacked it in position and cycled the suspension.
Plenty of clearance now! I might even be able to slide my axle back a half inch or so...
I have about an inch of shock shaft still showing, so I may re-install my bar pin eliminators and gain that inch back in droop...we'll see. A buddy of mine, who is a weldor by trade, is coming over tomorrow to help with some yardwork...he's gonna do some welding for me too...I don't want to be the guy permanently burning in a trackbar bracket. Too Risky for my blood. I'm getting better with the welder...but I'm not confident in my ability for that yet.
Tomorrow, I'm spreading 10 yards of topsoil and pulling out some pine stumps. I have a small tractor rented with a bucket and backhoe, so hopefully, this project only takes my a few hours. I really need to get the front suspension cycled and verify bumps (by the tape, I'll need to add an inch). I NEED to drive this thing sunday, to feel confident dragging it 300 miles up north for a wheelin trip next week.
OP
OP
It lives! Drove it around a couple times now. 7.5 miles, cool down, 7.5 miles. Trying to heat cycle and look for leaks. Found one, where I forgot to put the clamps on the heater core coolant tubes. My seat heaters are also not working. So far, that's been it. Pretty easy fixes. Couple things to finish up. I need to install my engine skid, trouble shoot the seat heaters (I'm spoiled) and check fluids one more time.
Couple things I've noticed. One, something feels "looser" in the rear end. I'm getting body roll over bumps. I went from Bilstein 5100s to Rancho 5000x. Jury is still out. I need to tighten the anti-rock up a bit and drive it again.
The noico is a worth while mod, so far. It really mutes the engine and exhaust noise. You can still hear it, but it's much more sedate I guess.
Couple things I've noticed. One, something feels "looser" in the rear end. I'm getting body roll over bumps. I went from Bilstein 5100s to Rancho 5000x. Jury is still out. I need to tighten the anti-rock up a bit and drive it again.
The noico is a worth while mod, so far. It really mutes the engine and exhaust noise. You can still hear it, but it's much more sedate I guess.
OP
OP
Last night I installed my engine skid and found out I had not secured the transmission mount to the transmission skid...ooops number 1.
Then I started looking into the seat heaters, figuring it's an easy fix. It was. I forgot to hook up the ground. Oops
While I was digging around behind the glove box, I noticed the nuts that secure the dash to the tub and hold the airbag were never tightened. Oops number 3.
All items are now secured.
I think it's ready for a wheeling trip?
Then I started looking into the seat heaters, figuring it's an easy fix. It was. I forgot to hook up the ground. Oops
While I was digging around behind the glove box, I noticed the nuts that secure the dash to the tub and hold the airbag were never tightened. Oops number 3.
All items are now secured.
I think it's ready for a wheeling trip?
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OP
No. The RV isn't quite ready yet. Buddies and I are staying in a cabin, so I'm hauling it on a trailer behind a work truck.
OP
Had a great wheeling weekend on Drummond island. Jeep performed great! It was the only one in our group to not break down and do all the trails and obstacles. I even had to put it into emergency service and let a buddy drive it about 250 miles home, while I had to put another rig on my trailer.
I tried more obstacles this time to the island. I can't believe how capable my jeep is...I'm really happy with how its all working right now (except the shocks). I do NOT like the rancho 5000x shocks. I'll give them a chance to break in better, but they allow SO much rear roll it feels like I'm getting rear steer. I stiffened up my Anti-rock to the middle setting and that helped, but its still not great. Also, they are very bouncy on the rocky trails. Feels like the body is overpowering the shocks. Like I said, I'm going to give them a few hundred miles to break them in fully, but at this point...They are not good enough for me to leave them. I'd rather have my bilsteins back. They might shudder a little on small stuff, but at least they can control the body.
Anyway, a few pictures...
Marblehead steps
Anyone recognize this guy?
Mu's Nemisis (another "big" obstacle on the island). Mu is the greek symbol for the coefficient of friction....these rocks are SLICK (not like the slickrock of moab, this is more of a polished shale).
I have a video...I'll get the editing done and post it. This obstacle was a bit of a "bonus" for me. Last time I was on Drummond (2+ years ago) I watched a JK Unlimited on 40s and a TJ on 37's struggle to get up. My video is 6 minutes long. I tried one line a couple times, back up, tried a different line and I made it up. Pretty awesome feeling. I didn't think I had a chance in hell of running this. but when I looked at it, I thought, "that doesn't look too bad...I bet I can make it." All the forum posts about belly clearance and hangovers made a difference, I'm convinced.
We also did some exploring. Nothing to technical, but there is some absolutely gorgeous shoreline on Drummond. Very Rugged. Fossil ledges is one of those places. It's also called the "Giant's Steps" as the natural shale formations extend out into the lake and every 50 yards or so, the depth changes by about 6 feet. This goes on for about a half mile. Its VERY cool to see in person and the pictures don't do it justice.
Now...The fossils...They are literally everywhere you look!
Oh, we played in the tank traps one day too...Have I mentioned I hate mud? Yeah, we had a couple rigs overheating on the way home because the radiators are plugged. I'm not ashamed to just say NO so I didn't get stuck this trip...but I still ended up with crap in my grill. Not as bad, but I still have to clean.
This is a so called "tank trap" Its a relatively shallow one too. Not sure what the story behind these are....I don't know if they are actual military tank pits left over from some exercise, or if they are just dug out holes in the trail from years of wheeling. I know that its all fine shale clay and it is sticky, nasty, slippery and ridiculous. I will not be going to the SE side of the island, ever again.
We even got to practice our recovery. This poor guy had a rough day. @mrblaine has talked about not angering the "rock Gods" Well, my buddy Steve must have. He trashed his CJ this trip. He lost the rear DS on a dirt road. He decided to continue on in FWD and "take it easy". Then he had electrical problems. We got those sorted and he wanted to keep going. He finally broke his front axle, trying a climb. It was "one last try" before we started stacking rocks. He blew up his passenger side U-joint. It was captured on video too. Its kinda awesome. Anyway, we had to side pull and pull him up the hill simultaneously to get him past the rocks....
I tried more obstacles this time to the island. I can't believe how capable my jeep is...I'm really happy with how its all working right now (except the shocks). I do NOT like the rancho 5000x shocks. I'll give them a chance to break in better, but they allow SO much rear roll it feels like I'm getting rear steer. I stiffened up my Anti-rock to the middle setting and that helped, but its still not great. Also, they are very bouncy on the rocky trails. Feels like the body is overpowering the shocks. Like I said, I'm going to give them a few hundred miles to break them in fully, but at this point...They are not good enough for me to leave them. I'd rather have my bilsteins back. They might shudder a little on small stuff, but at least they can control the body.
Anyway, a few pictures...
Marblehead steps
Anyone recognize this guy?
Mu's Nemisis (another "big" obstacle on the island). Mu is the greek symbol for the coefficient of friction....these rocks are SLICK (not like the slickrock of moab, this is more of a polished shale).
I have a video...I'll get the editing done and post it. This obstacle was a bit of a "bonus" for me. Last time I was on Drummond (2+ years ago) I watched a JK Unlimited on 40s and a TJ on 37's struggle to get up. My video is 6 minutes long. I tried one line a couple times, back up, tried a different line and I made it up. Pretty awesome feeling. I didn't think I had a chance in hell of running this. but when I looked at it, I thought, "that doesn't look too bad...I bet I can make it." All the forum posts about belly clearance and hangovers made a difference, I'm convinced.
We also did some exploring. Nothing to technical, but there is some absolutely gorgeous shoreline on Drummond. Very Rugged. Fossil ledges is one of those places. It's also called the "Giant's Steps" as the natural shale formations extend out into the lake and every 50 yards or so, the depth changes by about 6 feet. This goes on for about a half mile. Its VERY cool to see in person and the pictures don't do it justice.
Now...The fossils...They are literally everywhere you look!
Oh, we played in the tank traps one day too...Have I mentioned I hate mud? Yeah, we had a couple rigs overheating on the way home because the radiators are plugged. I'm not ashamed to just say NO so I didn't get stuck this trip...but I still ended up with crap in my grill. Not as bad, but I still have to clean.
This is a so called "tank trap" Its a relatively shallow one too. Not sure what the story behind these are....I don't know if they are actual military tank pits left over from some exercise, or if they are just dug out holes in the trail from years of wheeling. I know that its all fine shale clay and it is sticky, nasty, slippery and ridiculous. I will not be going to the SE side of the island, ever again.
We even got to practice our recovery. This poor guy had a rough day. @mrblaine has talked about not angering the "rock Gods" Well, my buddy Steve must have. He trashed his CJ this trip. He lost the rear DS on a dirt road. He decided to continue on in FWD and "take it easy". Then he had electrical problems. We got those sorted and he wanted to keep going. He finally broke his front axle, trying a climb. It was "one last try" before we started stacking rocks. He blew up his passenger side U-joint. It was captured on video too. Its kinda awesome. Anyway, we had to side pull and pull him up the hill simultaneously to get him past the rocks....
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Don Ashcraft
TJ Enthusiast
Its going to look great when you're finished!
When I installed my new fenders the hood was hitting/rubbing at either side. Turns out that the hood is supper easy to flex out of square due to being just stamped sheet metal. Its pretty easily to "tweek" it by pushing/pulling on opposite corners or sides to force it to line up more evenly....If that makes sense.
edit:tweek
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Don Ashcraft
TJ Enthusiast
Nice pics! I'm itching to get up north this summer. Love it up there. I feel the same about the rancho 5000x too. I'm looking at bilstien I think.