MiRustyjeep

Would a weld through primer have helped stop the problem you think? I read somewhere the other day that Chrysler doesn't use it but many other manufacturers do.
I don't think so. I've used it to, and it's really for the metal that isn't welded. Think about a plug weld. You burn the weld thru primer off when you fill the hole. Every where else that the metal is butted together needs to be protected, so that's is where the weld thru primer has it's job. It's just convenient to use, because you don't have to clean it off where you're welding.

All the panels I've looked at on my Jeep have been fully finished. Like, they didn't sandwich raw steel together when they put the tub together. It appear that they primed the panels, welded the tub, then sent it through the paint line.
 
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It really is a Shame that Chrysler couldn't figure out how to get the water and crap OUT of the frame. The outside is in really good shape. I'd say 75% of the metal is clean and smooth. Inside is a whole 'nother story though...They totally rot from the inside out.

I was reading something, somewhere, that said the galvanneal steel (steel made with extra zinc to help it resist corrosion) is really great...until you weld it. The welding burns away the zinc and leaves an unprotected area. Judging by the way my frame and tub rusted, I'd say that is 100% spot on. Every spot weld was rusted. Then because they don't seam seal the outside, the seams collect and hold water, so they were rusty too.

I know cars are not supposed to last forever, and being that mine has been a rust belt vehicle for most of its 17 years, I'd say its in decent shape, but dang...it would have been nice if they had spend a couple more bucks and applied a seam sealer to the outside of the tub...and maybe designed in some openings for crap to get OUT of the frame. Their handling and access holes would have been perfect, if they went to the bottom of the frame!
And spent 2¢ more on fastener corrosion resistance!
My 2003 GMC 340K miles drove every winter, I'm amazed at the bolts and hardware plating and the ease at which things come apart. Unfortunately GMC didn't apply that to the body or frame crossmembers.
 
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Worked on fuel lines and brake lines tonight. One of the last things I want to do before I put the tub on.

Got a nice, full stainless, pre-bent hard line brake kit from inline tubes, based on recommendation from @mrblaine. Nice stuff... Needs a little bit of tweaking to fit, but it's 95% correct. I did notice that it seems to be set up for drums, and I have rear discs from the factory, so I have a request into support.

I spent most of my time dicking with the fuel line. With the coil perch relocation, the hard line doesn't really fit correctly. So I bent it around to fit, but I'm not happy with the result.

I posted a thread about it Here. Any input is appreciated!
 
Figured out my fuel line tonight. Full details over here —->>>CLICK<<<—- but here are the cliff notes:

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Some -6 AN line, a couple 45° swivels and a couple QD fittings, and I'm back in business. The key is that stainless union at the bottom of the photo. I shortened my stainless factory hardline up and cut all the kinky re-bends out that I made. It's not perfect...I probably should have made a bracket to screw to the frame and used a bulkhead fitting, but, it'll do, Pig. It'll do.

Working on my brake lines too. This little crap takes SO much time. I have tomorrow off work, so hopefully I can knock out a lot of these little time suckers and get the stupid tub on.

In other areas...My new front bumper design is done. For a refresher, I bought a motobilt stubby and again, patterning @jjvw's build, I designed up an addition to the bumper.

This will allow me to slide the winch back at least two inches toward the grill...helps protect it without a big hoop on the end. I will trim the 1" stiffening flange on the motobilt design, taper the butt edges, and weld this fabricated piece in...

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Cost me 75 bucks to have this made, but its WAY better than I would have done with the tools I have. I just sent a print to my uncle's shop and then picked it up. With the time crunch I feel I'm under, the more parallel paths I can have, the better. My goal for the weekend is get the front bumper done, then send everything steel off to powdercoat Monday. "Everything Steel" will be my front bumper, rear bumper, a tire mount tag bracket, the supports for a Savvy Gas Tank skid, and anything else I can think of (like the grill support struts).

Then I gotta thrash like a madman to get the tub reassembled. I have a headstart...got the HVAC and main wire harness mounted last night.

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I hope I did enough labeling, taking of pictures, and making drawings to be able to slam it back together. Once the tub is on and complete, I still need to cycle the suspension, install new shocks and set bumpstops!
 
Looking good Mike, you are doing some really nice work here!
 
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Light at end of tunnel!
I dunno...I feel more stressed now than I did when I started. I gave myself a deadline because I KNOW if I didn't, this project would drag on forever. Its a delicate balance between pushing hard enough to get it finished and making it feel like a job vs a hobby. Lately, its been feeling like a job...but its because I'm working on detail shit that takes a lot of time without a lot of progress. Having the tub mounted this weekend will be a psychological win that will hopefully have me feeling like this is fun again.
 
I dunno...I feel more stressed now than I did when I started. I gave myself a deadline because I KNOW if I didn't, this project would drag on forever. Its a delicate balance between pushing hard enough to get it finished and making it feel like a job vs a hobby. Lately, its been feeling like a job...but its because I'm working on detail shit that takes a lot of time without a lot of progress. Having the tub mounted this weekend will be a psychological win that will hopefully have me feeling like this is fun again.
Deadline is Moab in two weeks, right? 🤪
 
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The tub has been mounted for the final time.... Until I need a new frame. Had a couple buddies over this morning to help out. It's on, all my bolt holes line up, and the squishy JKS body lift has been replaced with a firm Savvy body lift.

Now, it's nap time. Got my second Covid-19 vaccination shot last nite, and I'm feeling a bit whipped.
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Worked on fuel lines and brake lines tonight. One of the last things I want to do before I put the tub on.

Got a nice, full stainless, pre-bent hard line brake kit from inline tubes, based on recommendation from @mrblaine. Nice stuff... Needs a little bit of tweaking to fit, but it's 95% correct. I did notice that it seems to be set up for drums, and I have rear discs from the factory, so I have a request into support.

I spent most of my time dicking with the fuel line. With the coil perch relocation, the hard line doesn't really fit correctly. So I bent it around to fit, but I'm not happy with the result.

I posted a thread about it Here. Any input is appreciated!
inline tube is great, respectable prices and local too. my rear line set came for drum so I had to do some trimming and flaring but nothing too difficult.
 
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Dropped a whole load of stuff off at the powdercoaters today at lunchtime. They charge by the batch...as long as everything is the same color. So, my front and rear bumper, a fairlead mount, Savvy Gas tank skid with brackets, and a spare tire license plate mount is going to cost me 120 dollars. It would have only been 95, but they asked if I wanted epoxy primer first...so I said hell yes. I kinda wish I had more stuff ready for them...but I'll have to paint the remaining brackets myself. I really don't have that much more to do.

I does beg the question though...when my frame goes, and if I decide to replace it, Can I get another frame, get any mods done (like a mid arm kit or something), have it galvanized, then powdercoat it for 120 dollars? That would be pretty bad ass.
 
Had a productive day in the garage today, after dicking with rear brake lines for way too long.

Brake line fiasco

After I got the brake lines done, I finished trimming my lower spring perches to clear the shock bodies. Installed new ranchos to get me through until I decide what I'm doing with my suspension. To help balance the longer ranchos vs the bilsteins, I installed 3/4" spacers that I had sitting around.

Then I started puttering around in other stuff. Got my transmission plates in, the tcase shifter is hooked back up and my parking brake lever is installed.

I installed the passenger fender tonight too. Starting to look like a Jeep again. I'm basically to the point where I have to paint the tub where I repaired it before I can go further. So, I worked on some prep for that. I slapped a couple layers of filler on. Ran out of sandpaper though, so tomorrow is all about body work (yuck).

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My tub is painted! I'll have to do some sanding, but overall, for what I'm trying to accomplish this go round, it's pretty good. First, some filler for the welded repair.

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Color coat on
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Then clear. Little history on me and clear coat. I have a hard time with it. Not sure why, but I always get orange peel. I've deduced that I don't put it on heavy enough. This time, I was bound and determined to put it on heavier.

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And I did. Most of the work looks great. Some is damn near perfect.

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And then... There are areas to sand.

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Oops. At least I can sand and polish it out. Maybe @bobthetj03 can give me a couple pointers. This is a temporary fix until I do a color change next year... Or sooner. Depends how busy I am this summer.
 
Holy water falls Batman! You'll need a razor blade and some patience for that panel, but doable.
Yeah, the razor blade thing scares me! I'm going to start with 800 and see how that goes. I watched a vid where a guy was scraping the high spots...I'm sure to have to re-clear it if I get a razor blade anywhere near this thing.

Assuming I do need to do it, how long should I let it sit before scraping? Its it better to work soft or wait a week for it to fully cure?