I’m sorry, could you speak up please? I couldn’t quite hear youI hear you on the TJs though. That’s why I never sold mine for a JK.
The truss brace unbolts from the cover bolts and the two bolts that hold it to the back of the truss and it is fully out of the way for any maintenance work inside the diff.
I'm not sure if I missed it in the thread, but can I ask what headlights you're running?The desert trip was officially over when I hit snow! From here on out things got serious. I dove that jeep 1080 miles in two days on the highway. It brakes straight, doesn't pull on acceleration and goes around a corner with confidence. Given it is still a 2005 LJ Rubicon and not a Ferrari but it is a good handling one with predictable characteristics.
I figured I would sorta photo bomb this thread with pictures from the trip. It is all about making memories and this is the 1st big adventure for the LJ. I'm hoping to do more trips like this one with it in the future. It is also fun to drive around town in the meantime. Overall Blaine did a great job with all the work.
View attachment 39571
Was just doing some searching an reading on midarm while i wait for parts and realized whatever happened to this rig and OP?
The switch you can see in the above pic is a waterproof K4 push on push off switch picking up power from the original underhood light harness.
View attachment 32425
Your finger.Sorry to bring this one back up but what exactly actuates this switch? Can i assume that you have to push it to turn the light on? At first I thought it was a pin switch that turned the light on when the hood was up but then I realized that there really isn't anything that makes contact with that location.
That works. I just ordered up a mercury switch to see if I can get around using my fingerYour finger.
We don't use tilt switches ever. The problem is you have to unplug the light to turn it off when the hood is up for extended periods of time.That works. I just ordered up a mercury switch to see if I can get around using my finger![]()
The OEM JK moabs I ran were definitely 6" of backspacing... I changed em mostly because they were to close to the frame and tub.Love this build. Something I'm curious about though on the wheels. Somewhere near the beginning, the owner mentions that they are JK Moab wheels with 5.2" backspacing and that with a 1.25" spacer, it puts the effective backspacing right around 4". Upon doing a bit of research, I've found that the OEM JK Moab wheels are 17x7.5 with a 44.45mm offset which gives you exactly 6" of backspacing. Factor in the 1.25" spacer and the effective backspacing becomes 4.75".
Now Quadratec sells an aftermarket JK Moab that is 17x8.5 and has 5.2" of backspacing. @mrblaine seemed to indicate that these were OEM JK wheels. I like the look here and if clearance with a 315/70r17 isn't an issue, I may go down the same road.
@mrblaine Any tricks trimming those rear fender flares around the sliders?